New Chain Saw 20" tree....

[MacMick]

Old 029 Farm Boss vs Pro saw- how much time saved?

I own 12 acres with a good supply of hard wood. I currently have a tall 20" red oak that came down and took a slightly smaller sycamore with it. I have an old Stihl 029 Farm Boss, 18" blade, cracked housing, exhaust and starting issues.... The 20" tree is not unusual for my property, there are quite a few trees that are even larger. I am wondering if a Pro grade saw would speed work up? I have read several posts on the chainsaw threads suggesting that Pro grade saws will reduce cutting time. I have a long single lane road through woods that clients have to pass to get to our business. Clearing the road faster is an issue. I know saws do improve and I am wondering if I could get a Pro saw of the same or less weight that might suit me better?

I have a 30hp Kabota tractor with loader. It want lift large logs but if I saw the trees into smaller logs I think I can push every thing but the root ball into areas that I have used for this purpose before. I am thinking buying a Pro saw will run me less than renting or buying heavy equipment to move larger trees. The idea being to saw larger trees into smaller parts I can move with my current loader. Would a saw like the Husqvarna 562 xp... allow me to do additional sawing without a large extra expenditure of time? A 562 xp runs about the same as renting a larger machine that can move large tree parts.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Ruster22]

I use both Farm Bosses and small Pro saws. The pro saw might be stronger, lighter, and faster but not by much.
Get the old girl tuned up and keep a sharp chain on her and she should keep you happy.

 

[B Harrison]

Sounds like a 346 all day to me.

Nmurphy will sell you one that he reworks for under $400, they are stronger than stock and come tuned to perfection. If you have been running a 029 then a tuned 346 will be like a island getaway. Get a Stihl rs chain for it and that 20 inch oak will run from you!

My saw is so light you can run through a tank of gas and not even realize you have been working.

 

[brokenbudget]

the op needs more saw than a 346, let alone an 029.
considering the weight of the 60ish cc saws is coming down he might want to look at the husky 562 and go from there....

 

[MacMick]

I have been reading up on the Husky 562 XP, now that it is mentioned. I have read that this saw is light enough to limb comfortably with but still enough saw to cut larger trees faster than my old 029. My 029 is an old model, bulkier and heavier than what they make now. I figure the 029 could be a second saw, for cutting the new saw out...Our property has some very steep hills that can make some difficult cuts. Parts of the oak I need to cut now are 5-6' off the ground, across the parking lot I cut into the side of the hill.

Recently my hands have been breaking out with a rash that the dermatologist says is eczema, part of being 63 I guess. Thee point being I would like to limit stress on my hands, which take a regular beating from the dogs as it is. I understand the 562 is very smooth/light to operate which is a factor for me now and the reason I have not been thinking about a larger saw.

I think a faster lighter saw with the specific features of the 562 might be safer and easier to work with in the hilly areas, especially where the road and parking lots are recessed into hills?

 

[MacMick]

Found a local dealer that I liked and picked up a 562 XP, with 20" blade, will post later after I break up a few trees.

 

[brokenbudget]

Found a local dealer that I liked and picked up a 562 XP, with 20" blade, will post later after I break up a few trees.

awsome! new saw rep coming!:msp_thumbsup:you are going to like the saw!

 

[MacMick]

The 562 XP has been great. It went right through the tough old 20" oak like it was butter. I had called my aborist buddy and found out he had broken a foot. Although he was walking around again he still wasn't climbing. I asked him to come out and help me with how to make a couple cuts that looked to me like they could be dangerous. Turned out that he thought he should make a few of the cuts in the tangle of trees I had down. He used my saw and loved it too.

 

[msvold]

Wow - quick action on the purchase, like to see that. Let us know more about the saw and how it helps you get your tasks accomplished - I'm currently fighting off CAD thinking about the 562.

 

[Philip Wheelock]

The 562 XP has been great...

Smart move. As you mentioned, fix up the 029 as a backup saw.

 

[Gologit]

The 562 XP has been great. It went right through the tough old 20" oak like it was butter. I had called my aborist buddy and found out he had broken a foot. Although he was walking around again he still wasn't climbing. I asked him to come out and help me with how to make a couple cuts that looked to me like they could be dangerous. Turned out that he thought he should make a few of the cuts in the tangle of trees I had down. He used my saw and loved it too.

Two good choices...a new saw and getting advice and help from a pro. You'll be just fine. Some chaps and a hard hat might be a good next buy.

 

[c5rulz]

Two good choices...a new saw and getting advice and help from a pro. You'll be just fine. Some chaps and a hard hat might be a good next buy.

I agree.

If you have any reservations on cutting a tree, wait and get some help from your friend or have him guide you through it. Heavy leaners and damaged trees are way above your experience level now.

Great choice in saw by the way.

 

[moody]

Congrats on your new saw. That should run a 24inch bar all day and make you smile doing it. Just letting you know its not a blade, its a guide bar.

 

[zogger]

I own 12 acres with a good supply of hard wood. I currently have a tall 20" red oak that came down and took a slightly smaller sycamore with it. I have an old Stihl 029 Farm Boss, 18" blade, cracked housing, exhaust and starting issues.... The 20" tree is not unusual for my property, there are quite a few trees that are even larger. I am wondering if a Pro grade saw would speed work up? I have read several posts on the chainsaw threads suggesting that Pro grade saws will reduce cutting time. I have a long single lane road through woods that clients have to pass to get to our business. Clearing the road faster is an issue. I know saws do improve and I am wondering if I could get a Pro saw of the same or less weight that might suit me better?

I have a 30hp Kabota tractor with loader. It want lift large logs but if I saw the trees into smaller logs I think I can push every thing but the root ball into areas that I have used for this purpose before. I am thinking buying a Pro saw will run me less than renting or buying heavy equipment to move larger trees. The idea being to saw larger trees into smaller parts I can move with my current loader. Would a saw like the Husqvarna 562 xp... allow me to do additional sawing without a large extra expenditure of time? A 562 xp runs about the same as renting a larger machine that can move large tree parts.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

On the cheap? You have the model that is pretty easy to rebuild into a 390, up to just swapping to a new complete engine. Numerous and redundant threads here on that. Several site sponsors have what you need..

Also I dont know when it changed, I know way way way back it was more common to say a chainsaw blade, but modern day terminolgy is guide bar, and chain. A chainsaw bar.


edit: whoops,. too late! didnt realize you had gotten the new one. Well, here ya go, woo hoo, new saw!!!

You can still rebuild the older one though. I believe last I looked complete engines are around 150 bucks, that is new case, new crank, new piston and cylinder, etc.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

On the cheap? You have the model that is pretty easy to rebuild into a 390, up to just swapping to a new complete engine. Numerous and redundant threads here on that. Several site sponsors have what you need..

Also I don't know when it changed, I know way way way back it was more common to say a chainsaw blade, but modern day terminolgy is guide bar, and chain. A chainsaw bar.


edit: whoops,. too late! didn't realize you had gotten the new one. Well, here ya go, woo hoo, new saw!!!

You can still rebuild the older one though. I believe last I looked complete engines are around 150 bucks, that is new case, new crank, new piston and cylinder, etc.

OP congratulations on your new saw purchase! As others have suggested, I'd keep asking your friend for assistance when things look questionable. Safety gear is a good thing, however, it doesn't replace common sense which it sounds like you have!

On the note about working on your 029, check my sig for one or two of those how-to threads.

Check your PMs (privet messages)

Dan

 

[brokenbudget]

blade, bar who cares? everybody knows what it means
i agree with the 390 upgrade for the 029! deff. a good way to get more life out of that saw on the cheap and the quality of the kit is pretty good:msp_thumbup:

 

[zogger]

blade, bar who cares? everybody knows what it means
i agree with the 390 upgrade for the 029! deff. a good way to get more life out of that saw on the cheap and the quality of the kit is pretty good:msp_thumbup:

I wasnt ranking him about that, just a note on the terminology. I had to learn various terms when I came here, for instance noodling, I always called that cut chunking. Noodling fits better though.

My number one biggest lesson learned here, bar none, best advice, most useful tidbit..avoid sloping back cuts....