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Sadly the Republicrats are no longer the Party of Lincoln. Or a Conservative voice at all.

But we digress, the plan is to socialize this country fully starting with this Intrusive wave of Fascism. I hear Echos of Adoplh, Mussolini and Josef ringing in my ears. LOL.

Anyway. Thanks for the maintenance Kit suggestions. I had planned to go with a shorter bar regardless of what saw I purchased.

And Great info on the Bar and chain recommendations. I didn't realize Oregon Chains were soft. I assumed they were the "best choice" It's all a learning curve. Glad to learn it.

Thanks,

Stick around here long enough and youll pickup alot of chainsaw knowledge,plus what you learn on your own. My knowledge base is mix of both real world playing with saw and here. I forgot one thing, get a good axe and some wedges in case you get your saw pinched! Fiskars makes great priced axes that are instructable. I own two, plus a fiskars axe sharpener. Great stuff and a great buy!
 
Thanks,

Stick around here long enough and youll pickup alot of chainsaw knowledge,plus what you learn on your own. My knowledge base is mix of both real world playing with saw and here. I forgot one thing, get a good axe and some wedges in case you get your saw pinched! Fiskars makes great priced axes that are instructable. I own two, plus a fiskars axe sharpener. Great stuff and a great buy!

Those I do have. Nice cutting axe, Nice Splitting axe and a Nice allotment of wedges. LOL. WHat I do need to grab is an Axe Sharpener.
 
Got My Fiskars SSA today. Jumped right in and split over 2 Cords of wood (some of the most twisted and knotty wood as well) Makes my old splitter and Cutter look like Garbage.

Love that thing. It is a serious Aerobic workout. I think my heart rate was at 130 for a good solid Hour. LOL.

I finally decided on a 455 Huskey. I am picking up 3 Stihl RSC3 Chains based on recommendations here. Not to mention that I read it has Chrome tipped Cutters. SWEET!!!

Thanks for all the Stihl Chainsaw Offers. I seriously considered them, but I think the 55cc Engine will do me better. I'll Let you know how it Goes when it gets here.

Thanks Again for all the help and recommendations thus far. This sit is great.

Makes my old splitter and Cutter look like Garbage.
 
my two cents for what it's worth is this: i have a 445 that i bought when i bought my new house because i had to cut up a little firewood and clear some smaller trees. i have a little experience with saws so i wasn't too happy to buy it knowing it wouldn't last as a fiewood saw(and i'm only cutting 6 chord or so a year) or have enough power to drop anything too big. alas i needed a reliable saw and it suited my immediate needs. it does cut well and i like it for what it is. i knew that i had bought myself some time to find a bargain on a good used saw and had what would make a decent saw for limbing and cutting small stuff or limbing, so i hadn't just thrown the money out the window. sure enough i had a nice old 266 dropped in my lap for free. seems to just need a little carb work and i'm waiting for the kit now. should be all set now.
 
RSC3? Recommended here? I know the city dealers like to push it, but that 3suffix is safety chain; maybe it does cut just fine and if the guys here say it's right for you please ignore this post, but since I occasionally plunge cut, have never tried to find out how it works.
 
Another poster in this thread recommended the RSC chain....

I decided on the RSC3 as I am not interested in becoming a Logger and My sons may train on this. No need for lost limbs and scared faces.

What do you use (for longevity)
 
A file. But since, it seems like every 10th tree I drop around here has fence [or even a fence post a couple times!] in the middle, the file isn't much good and they have to go off to the dealer for sharpening.

I think several here prefer the semi-chisle (RM?) for longer life between filings.
 
Love your humor, just not an answer to my question. I have no problem sharpening my chain. the issue is hardness of teeth, etc...

I am a woodworker and I use Freud blades. 1- for their Narrow Kerf, 2 - for their life span. (Great Teeth, easy to sharpen)

Get me???
 
Love your humor, just not an answer to my question. I have no problem sharpening my chain. the issue is hardness of teeth, etc...

I am a woodworker and I use Freud blades. 1- for their Narrow Kerf, 2 - for their life span. (Great Teeth, easy to sharpen)

Get me???


Sorry, thought that my using RSC was implied; steel gets my chains more often than dirt or wood wear so I've never even tried RM. Really, I'm far from the one to be speaking of chain, as I've only used Stihl and Oregon and now only use Stihl - and I'm certianly not a daily user either. Seems to be a fair consensus around here that Stihl chain is hard to beat - with full chisle (RSC) for a bit quicker cutting, while semi-chisle (RM?) for longevity.
 
So you use the standard RSC chain. Ok. What about kick back issues???

Sorry I didn't Get that you used one (implication) I guess I am too much of a literalist.

I am still learning. Just trying to simplify my life on a budget.
 
So you use the standard RSC chain. Ok. What about kick back issues???

Sorry I didn't Get that you used one (implication) I guess I am too much of a literalist.

I am still learning. Just trying to simplify my life on a budget.

If you're just cutting through stuff smaller than your bar, you'll never experience it - unless you're not watching the tip and touch an adjacent log [and then safety chain may even kick, supposedly just not as likely] - but [and this is just info I read in another thread here, so you know what you get for a copy of a copy of something free!] I understand the RSC3 doesn't have the lowered performance associated with safety chain (look at some of that triple hump stuff and I just can't imagine where the chips are supposed to go), unless you're trying to plunge cut with it.

Personally, I'd rather optimize my cutting & cutting options and have less fatique (and hopefully more allert) than count on something mechanical to make up for my errors - BUT - that's just me. :chainsaw:
 
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Good argument. I am not a seasoned cutter so all of this is new to me.

I understand how kickback can occur. Never experienced it (novice)

Based on what you asked (smaller than the bar) most likely I wont get involved in it. LOL.

I'll go with the rsc3 and the rsc to see which one I prefer. Thanks for the insight. I want the do as much with as little effort.
 
Sounds to me like your goals, price range and the size of saw that you want to buy are all outta wack!

First off...have you ever cut and split 12-15 cords of fire wood in your whole life??? You do realize that a cord is 4x4x8/128cu. ft.....right??? I just cut down a nice 22'' dia. Black Cherry and 3 decent size Mullberrys/16'' dia. at base. I might have got 1 full cord out of those trees, have to account for four Cherry logs going to the mill, but still.....I think that is pretty lofty for a 40cc saw.

I hope you either have a great splitter or a good back because you are going to need both for that much wood. I mean a good stove in a tight house shouldn't burn more than about 3 to 4 cords a winter. And that is a rough winter burning late Sept. to spring.

Do yourself a favor, save if you can, borrow if you must, but get a good quality saw, match it to what you are going to be able to cut. A 40cc saw is going to get put through the wringer to cut that much wood no matter the species.
 
JJuday,
I always love it when people don't read.

1 - I said I was settled on the 55cc Saw, not the 40cc Saw.

2 - No, I have never cut 16 cords of wood in my life, but, I have cut 6 cords of wood thus far. And split 2 of those cords yesterday once I received my Fiskars SSA Axe. Made quick work of things.

I have a 5,000 sq foot house (not including the basement) with 4-Rumford Fireplaces.

Last ear we went through 7 cords of wood running only 2 of the fireplaces round the clock. This year we plan to medium duty the other two and run a small stove in the basement.

3 - I do realize what a cord of wood is.

4 - Most of the wood supplied to me is from a local contractor who drops it off to me in lieu of other disposal. The majority of it is sized (18 - 20" tall) so all I have to do is split. the remainder needs to be cut down for splitting.

They suggested the 455 Rancher as they use it for this purpose (along with their MANY MANY Stihls) LOL. I mentioned to them my budget and what I saw available in that price range. I found this site and received lots of information that helped me settle with my decision.

Please take the time to read things in full detail before spouting off.

I am beyond fully aware that a 40cc saw is not adequate for my needs.
 
Hahahah!! So you mean you're on easy street! I'm glad to hear it! Too much posted to read everything without my brain imploding. So it's good to hear you got the 455, it will serve you well. I always have plans to cut till I can't cut anymore, but reality usually sets in and I just get what I can. I have a Fiskars SSA too....but I can tell you from what I did yesterday that sometimes you just have to noodle that nasty crotch wood with your saw. I used a MS 260 and an 084 AV for those tree and they are great for what I do.

Also, if you have the funds to do so, get an extra bar or two. Extra chains are great to have but there are those rare instances when you might get one pinched or bent or beveled rails and it's nice to put another on and go.

I cut and split about 8 full cords last year and most was not easy pickens. A lot of Elm, Hickory, Oak, ect. White Hickory and Elm will just laugh at a SSA and make a good gas splitter work for it's keep. But the 084 got the last laugh this year on the Elm!
Oh, get some good hearing protection so you don't go half def like me! Josh.
 
I try to work about 2 hours a day. (I do have another life. LOL)

Yesterday was a rare one. New toy so we put in 9 hours from the time it arrived via UPS to the time we all just fell flat out tired. LOL.

But I was energized from all that splitting. My Wife was "pleased" with all my energy from all that work. Goes to show, the more you work, the more energy you have.

Like others said that SSA is a serious Aerobic workout.

An Extra Bar (shorter- 16") is definitely on the menu.

Being a Sound Engineer by trade, my Hearing is more important to me than most. Unless I am mixing a concert I listen at a level of 85dBA or Lower. Ear plugs, noise canceling headphones, etc. are all part of my arsenal.
 
unless you're not watching the tip and touch an adjacent log [and then safety chain may even kick, supposedly just not as likely]

Was just out crawling around under a tractor and somehow safety cropped into my head: "until" may have been a better choice of words. Regardless of the chain you go with, certainly before you get your sons on that saw, and better if right away, get yourself a helmet combo (though not sure the earmuffs would work with your noise canceling headgear) and some chaps or some kind of leg protection.

Now I'm being exactly a half hypocrite there, but no kids to pick up bad habits from me. However, you asked "what about kickback":

"not likely for your situation" is too optimistic; "know the saw's behaviors and deal with it" is rather vague if you don't know what you're expecting, and a bit optimistic even if you do, so proper PPE on top of good ol' common sense is a good mixture for most situtions - chainsaw or not.
 
There Ear Muffs. just a nice "fancy" way of saying so. LOL. They squash sounds by up to 60dB

I feel you on the Common Sense thing. LOL. I always break it in, learn what not to do, then pass it down. Thank goodness for tutorials, and people like yourself who are willing to share this knowledge.

I was looking at this unit...

http://www.husqvarna.com/au/landsca...ht-protection/protective-helmet,-fluorescent/

With the Polycarbonate Visor attachment to replace the mesh screen
 
Please tell us more about the energy your wife enjoyed.
How do you know she enjoyed it??
 

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