windthrown
361 Junkie
That dealer did you a dis-service, he is sort of right, it is just that a 50cc saw really can't be too aggressive - and the 346 is the 50cc saw.
But but but... will the 346XP (new edition) cure cancer like the MS361?
That dealer did you a dis-service, he is sort of right, it is just that a 50cc saw really can't be too aggressive - and the 346 is the 50cc saw.
But but but... will the 346XP (new edition) cure cancer like the MS361?
Please...in a 30 second long cut a .5 second difference in time to max RPM will mean a whopping .5 second difference in cut time. Something a beginner has no business even worrying about. My 4 years with an 026 showed it to be extremely low maintenace and 100% reliable. Parts availability is second to none, not to mention a dealer system that is far and above the largest in the US. These are characteristics that are important to a novice saw owner.
Sorry your dealer turned you away from the 346. If you think the 260 is a smooth saw, you should try the 346...
It's also more powerful than the 260. That the 346 is for pro's and the 260 for a novice is BS. The 260 could
kill you as well as a 346. The quicker acceleration is not more dangerous either.
Anyhow, you got a good reliable saw, just hope it cost you alot less than the 346 would have done.
:agree2:
Here, the 260 is a lot cheaper, but likely not in the US.....
I was referring to limbing, not 30 second cuts - I totally agree it doesn't matter then......
For limbiing only the 346XP and the 2153 are without competition.
...... As for your tree problem, if it were me I would get professional help on that one.
Will see if my camera is working tomorrow. My neighbor has more experience than me and offered to help. He can also climb like a monkey and has lots of heavy rope. The tree is probably more like 12" near the base, but very tall due to competing trees 6 ft away.
:agree2: if that lean towards the house is bad.
Using a pull rope and wedges to get it the right way is an option, if it isn't too bad of a lean.
Well my neighbor and I took that dead oak tree down yesterday. There was no property damage or injury, but it definately was not as planned. See pictures I posted earlier for reference.
The tree was an oval shape and we chose to notch it on the flat side, which was not exactly where we wanted it to fall. That slight shift in direction caused the tree to lodge in an adjacent hickory about 8 ft away and impossible to move with ropes. Ended up cutting about 30 ft in small sections from the bottom and using a hand winch to dislodge the tree before it finally fell. Did not always seem safe, but could not think of any alternatives.
The MS 260 performed everything asked of it admirably.
Well my neighbor and I took that dead oak tree down yesterday. There was no property damage or injury, but it definately was not as planned. See pictures I posted earlier for reference.
The tree was an oval shape and we chose to notch it on the flat side, which was not exactly where we wanted it to fall. That slight shift in direction caused the tree to lodge in an adjacent hickory about 8 ft away and impossible to move with ropes. Ended up cutting about 30 ft in small sections from the bottom and using a hand winch to dislodge the tree before it finally fell. Did not always seem safe, but could not think of any alternatives.
The MS 260 performed everything asked of it admirably.
I am new to Site and just bought a new Stihl MS 260. Had originally ordered a Husqvarna 450e from Sears, but cancelled it after reading the negative posts from this forum. After visiting a local dealer that carries both Stihl and Husy, I decided on the 260 with 16 blade. Almost went for the 270 for $70 less, but liked the feel of the 260.
I enquired on the Husqvarna 346 XP and the Dealer did not recommend it for a novice cutter like me. He said it accelerates very quickly, has a very steep power curve, and would not be comfortable for a novice to handle.
First cut was a 14" cherry tree in the back woods that had broken near the base and leaning on a neaby oak. The 260went thru it like butter. Man that is a smooth saw.
Would appreciate some tips for downing a 16" oak tree (dead). It's about 20 feet from the house, but sits atop a steep incline and gravity pushes it toward the house. There is an opening away from the house, but would have to fight gravity somewhat. Also scared of the remaining branches falling while cutting, which are about 60 feet high. Would it be best to use a 28 ft ladder and take down the upper part of the tree with a hand saw, or just take it down at the base with the chain saw and watch for falling debris?
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