Nik's Poulan Thread

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Sharpening

There is always the hand file, but I question my accuracy being steady.
I've been considering one of those fixed guides for a long time. Often bar mounted, sometimes bench. That would keep my cross angle constant, but not control my depth, either up and down or into the tooth.
It seems the answer to that is bench grinder. I've found some really cheap ones with video of them in action. Is there a down side to using a cheap grinder?
 
Warning,splitting sweet gum may make you utter four letter words and take the Lords Name in vain and that is useing a hydraulic splitter.

Ah! Someone who knows what sweet gum is. Locals claim it does not grow with a grain but is more like a roll of toilet paper set on end. I cut some big stuff a couple of years back, just to get rid of it. Cutting as little as a quarter through the cut would swell shut behind the blade. Weird.
 
My 2750 Project

I pulled it out of old shed. Last I remembered, I thought it only needed coil.
Wrong. I suspect it is being close to salt air, but every metal not painted or having oil on it showed heavy corrosion, even aluminum.
Muffler very rusty and pulled. Broke bolt. ___%# Found bar, 20", but not chain. More +%$$. Two of bottom case bolts are missing, like that when I got it so I'm wondering if it has been into prior to me or they just fell out. Spur gear looks quite worn. Pulled it and bearing has no grease but at least a protective film. Gas cap apparently swollen as I find the threads tight all the way. Hard to even start it back in. And it may even need a carb kit at this point.
Lots of carboning in muffler and exhaust port. It has one of those sleeves there. Some on top of piston.
But, piston and cylinder wall look like new! And it might be chrome cylinder. It certainly looks to be different metal than piston which is obviously aluminum. May be a thin ring.
I now suspect the previous owner bought it, no saw experience. Ran chain way too tight. Maybe ran way too much oil or cheap oil, or both. The bolts fell out because they worked loose from new. And just a weak coil from beginning. I was told he used it some the previous year and sat in garage. Following summer, he could not get it to start.

So, now it is back to coil + drive + chain, and a number of other small items. I wonder if it is worthwhile?
 
There is always the hand file, but I question my accuracy being steady.
I've been considering one of those fixed guides for a long time. Often bar mounted, sometimes bench. That would keep my cross angle constant, but not control my depth, either up and down or into the tooth.
It seems the answer to that is bench grinder. I've found some really cheap ones with video of them in action. Is there a down side to using a cheap grinder?

Chain sharpening has never been my strong suit. :msp_mad: More of a necessary evil in my book. I hand sharpened, with a guide on the saw for years. Then made a gizmo out of an old bar, that I can clamp in the vise, and use a guide that way. Worked better. Then several years ago I bought one of the Chinese knockoff Oregon style grinder, from Northern Tool. By far I have had the best "luck" with that.

Its faster, easier, plus I can sit down and drink a cup of coffee or beer while doing it.:D I can make them sharp enough to cut my firewood. Was money well spent to me. Was around $90 or so at the time. I will still use the hand file once in a while, when feeling ambitious. (not very often).
The hand file thing I use is Pferd (sp?) file holder/guide, that uses a round file for the cutters, and a flat file for the depth gauges, at the same time. Don't have a pic of it handy.

9b48efe94dc6a18debe8.jpg


f46f790ae928940579fb.jpg


:cheers:
Gregg,
 
There is always the hand file, but I question my accuracy being steady.
I've been considering one of those fixed guides for a long time. Often bar mounted, sometimes bench. That would keep my cross angle constant, but not control my depth, either up and down or into the tooth.
It seems the answer to that is bench grinder. I've found some really cheap ones with video of them in action. Is there a down side to using a cheap grinder?

I picked up a grinder from Northern tool when it was on sale. Identical to the Oregon and Italian grinder. Issue I have with it is that the bolt holding the chain tightening lever keeps coming loose and the knob on the chain adjustment lever keeps coming off. Other than that its great. I believe that's the things you need to contend with the cheaper sharpeners. There is a Thread about making fixes that is worth reading.
Bob
 
I pulled it out of old shed. Last I remembered, I thought it only needed coil.
Wrong. I suspect it is being close to salt air, but every metal not painted or having oil on it showed heavy corrosion, even aluminum.
Muffler very rusty and pulled. Broke bolt. ___%# Found bar, 20", but not chain. More +%$$. Two of bottom case bolts are missing, like that when I got it so I'm wondering if it has been into prior to me or they just fell out. Spur gear looks quite worn. Pulled it and bearing has no grease but at least a protective film. Gas cap apparently swollen as I find the threads tight all the way. Hard to even start it back in. And it may even need a carb kit at this point.
Lots of carboning in muffler and exhaust port. It has one of those sleeves there. Some on top of piston.
But, piston and cylinder wall look like new! And it might be chrome cylinder. It certainly looks to be different metal than piston which is obviously aluminum. May be a thin ring.
I now suspect the previous owner bought it, no saw experience. Ran chain way too tight. Maybe ran way too much oil or cheap oil, or both. The bolts fell out because they worked loose from new. And just a weak coil from beginning. I was told he used it some the previous year and sat in garage. Following summer, he could not get it to start.

So, now it is back to coil + drive + chain, and a number of other small items. I wonder if it is worthwhile?

It is worth it in the joy you receive from hearing/seeing/smelling it run once you are finished fixing it. I speak for myself here but it is my get away from the real world, i go out in the garage and pick the next saw in line and do whatever i need to to fix it. i usually get the saw for next to nothing and the $$ spent goes up from there. I look at it this way, i don't smoke ($$$ saved) i don't drink ($$$ saved) and i don't get into sports (unless they involve my children) $$$ spent HAHA> so i use my $$$ on fixing saws. i have something to show for it at the end for sure.
 
Chain sharpening has never been my strong suit. :msp_mad: More of a necessary evil in my book. I hand sharpened, with a guide on the saw for years. Then made a gizmo out of an old bar, that I can clamp in the vise, and use a guide that way. Worked better. Then several years ago I bought one of the Chinese knockoff Oregon style grinder, from Northern Tool. By far I have had the best "luck" with that.

Its faster, easier, plus I can sit down and drink a cup of coffee or beer while doing it.:D I can make them sharp enough to cut my firewood. Was money well spent to me. Was around $90 or so at the time. I will still use the hand file once in a while, when feeling ambitious. (not very often).
The hand file thing I use is Pferd (sp?) file holder/guide, that uses a round file for the cutters, and a flat file for the depth gauges, at the same time. Don't have a pic of it handy.

9b48efe94dc6a18debe8.jpg


f46f790ae928940579fb.jpg


:cheers:
Gregg,

Got the same one Gregg but as my response to the OP stated I have two issues with mine. Do you have the same issues and how did you fix them , if you did.

I also us the Pferd but only have it in 3/16. Like how it does both cutter and raker at the same time.
Bob
PS I bolted a 2x4 to the bottom of the grinder thus enabling me to mount it to a vice and store it away when not in use.
 
Last edited:
Got the same one Gregg but as my response to the OP stated I have two issues with mine. Do you have the same issues and how did you fix them , if you did.

I also us the Pferd but only have it in 3/16. Like how it does both cutter and raker at the same time.
Bob
PS I bolted a 2x4 to the bottom of the grinder thus enabling me to mount it to a vice and store it away when not in use.

Same exact issues as you Bob. I just learned to live with em. :dizzy: I have chased that little red knob that holds the chain stop, across the floor more times than I can count. LOL You tighten it up, watch it for a few cuts, seems fine. As soon as you take your eye off of it, its rolling on the floor again.

Gregg,
 
I pulled it out of old shed. Last I remembered, I thought it only needed coil.
Wrong. I suspect it is being close to salt air, but every metal not painted or having oil on it showed heavy corrosion, even aluminum.
Muffler very rusty and pulled. Broke bolt. ___%# Found bar, 20", but not chain. More +%$$. Two of bottom case bolts are missing, like that when I got it so I'm wondering if it has been into prior to me or they just fell out. Spur gear looks quite worn. Pulled it and bearing has no grease but at least a protective film. Gas cap apparently swollen as I find the threads tight all the way. Hard to even start it back in. And it may even need a carb kit at this point.
Lots of carboning in muffler and exhaust port. It has one of those sleeves there. Some on top of piston.
But, piston and cylinder wall look like new! And it might be chrome cylinder. It certainly looks to be different metal than piston which is obviously aluminum. May be a thin ring.
I now suspect the previous owner bought it, no saw experience. Ran chain way too tight. Maybe ran way too much oil or cheap oil, or both. The bolts fell out because they worked loose from new. And just a weak coil from beginning. I was told he used it some the previous year and sat in garage. Following summer, he could not get it to start.

So, now it is back to coil + drive + chain, and a number of other small items. I wonder if it is worthwhile?

When I look for a saw to restore I like to start with one with little or no corrosion. That seems to make the restore more worthwhile than one that's starting to be eaten up. I would suggest buying one like it and using this saw for parts. If you fix up this one you'll quickly end up with more in it than it's worth.
 
Same exact issues as you Bob. I just learned to live with em. :dizzy: I have chased that little red knob that holds the chain stop, across the floor more times than I can count. LOL You tighten it up, watch it for a few cuts, seems fine. As soon as you take your eye off of it, its rolling on the floor again.

Gregg,

Wrap threads with teflon tape. Not too much, its only plastic.
 
Same exact issues as you Bob. I just learned to live with em. :dizzy: I have chased that little red knob that holds the chain stop, across the floor more times than I can count. LOL You tighten it up, watch it for a few cuts, seems fine. As soon as you take your eye off of it, its rolling on the floor again.

Gregg,

What about blue loctite on threads if needs to come off in future or red loctite if it is suppose to stay on forever.
 
Barn is cold and cant get in the mood to hit the project. But doing some reading this morning Niko's post :msp_tongue: gave me another idea.

SawTroll

All those saws were made at the Husky factory, but there weren't any Husky version of any of them.


Hmmmmmm a husky orange one could be next. :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Chain sharpening has never been my strong suit. :msp_mad: More of a necessary evil in my book. I hand sharpened, with a guide on the saw for years. Then made a gizmo out of an old bar, that I can clamp in the vise, and use a guide that way. Worked better. Then several years ago I bought one of the Chinese knockoff Oregon style grinder, from Northern Tool. By far I have had the best "luck" with that.

Its faster, easier, plus I can sit down and drink a cup of coffee or beer while doing it.:D I can make them sharp enough to cut my firewood. Was money well spent to me. Was around $90 or so at the time. I will still use the hand file once in a while, when feeling ambitious. (not very often).
The hand file thing I use is Pferd (sp?) file holder/guide, that uses a round file for the cutters, and a flat file for the depth gauges, at the same time. Don't have a pic of it handy.

9b48efe94dc6a18debe8.jpg


f46f790ae928940579fb.jpg


:cheers:
Gregg,



Dang Gregg!

That shop looks cozy enough to back a truck in and sleep for a while!!!:D


Mike
 
Mike,
I don't have any nekkid wimmin pictures on the wall of the shop....just this. :D
Funny, I just noticed that blue Pferd chain sharpening guide hanging on the wall, to the left. LOL

9246d323c4bf5aca94f6.jpg


:cheers:
Gregg,



Yeah Gregg,

I remember the first time I came to your place.
I looked up at the wall and saw that and knew I was with my kind of people!!!:cheers:


Mike
 
Mike,
I don't have any nekkid wimmin pictures on the wall of the shop....just this. :D
Funny, I just noticed that blue Pferd chain sharpening guide hanging on the wall, to the left. LOL


:cheers:
Gregg,

:msp_thumbsup::msp_thumbup:

Had that flag in my old 1800's 2 story barn till I lost it in 2006.


Had 2 step away from the bench after tearing the used base gasket on green jeans. Couldn't get it to shape to the transfer right. :laugh: It does now :laugh:
 

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