telemaster
ArboristSite Member
Perfect. Thanks Mark!
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Perfect. Thanks Mark!
Let me add that Jerry has you on the right track as far as ring gap goes but I would error on the side of caution and allow a couple extra thousands to your end gap.
On rings FWIW.
I have been using rings from 'The Greek' on evilbay. Must be a dozen or more sets by now. I try to find plain end rings that will fit the bore and end up with .005"-.008" end gap. I then file the notch for the (vertical) locator pin with a 1/16" dia. swiss pattern file. (tiny little sucker).
The improvement in compression going from a called for .070"-.080" end gap to .005"- .008" is not all that great but it is there.
Also using rings 1.5 mm thick is a couple thousands thinner than the nominal 1/16" thickness used on domestic built saws. But the extra side clearence don't seem to hurt.
I have been using rings from 'The Greek' on evilbay. Must be a dozen or more sets by now. I try to find plain end rings that will fit the bore and end up with .005"-.008" end gap. I then file the notch for the (vertical) locator pin with a 1/16" dia. swiss pattern file. (tiny little sucker).
The improvement in compression going from a called for .070"-.080" end gap to .005"- .008" is not all that great but it is there.
Also using rings 1.5 mm thick is a couple thousands thinner than the nominal 1/16" thickness used on domestic built saws. But the extra side clearence don't seem to hurt.
Most chainsaws use the little round pins, didn't realize Poulan did it differently.
They do use round pins but like I said there vertical in the piston and used square end ring gaps.
We all appreciate your trying to help, but I think we all want accurate info as well.
I have tried that as well and seen no improvement, defiantly not work the trouble or the danger of the little piece left that could break off.
The ring gaps get too much attention here, the condition of the ring, its tension on the cyl wall, fit to the piston is what is really important as far as I'm concerned.
Poulan 325
What kind of rpm to these saws like. Mine came from the previous owner turning a little over 14,000 but I couldn't hear it 4 stroking like I'd like so I've got it tuned back to about 13,300 which now sounds a little rich. I don't want to be too conservative but I also don't want to be looking for a new top end because I understand they are a little scarce.
What kind of rpm to these saws like. Mine came from the previous owner turning a little over 14,000 but I couldn't hear it 4 stroking like I'd like so I've got it tuned back to about 13,300 which now sounds a little rich. I don't want to be too conservative but I also don't want to be looking for a new top end because I understand they are a little scarce.
The PP325 were rated to 14K and they meant it! :msp_biggrin:
Your getting me hooped up to get mine out again, I think I'll take it to the Indiana GTG next week.
The PP325 were rated to 14K and they meant it! :msp_biggrin:
Your getting me hooped up to get mine out again, I think I'll take it to the Indiana GTG next week.
Thanks Mark. I leaned it out a few hundred rpm and it really runs strong. I think these are really nice saws. I think I like it better than my ported 330.
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'd have to think a while on that one!!!
My ported 330 runs pretty good.
Mike
Maybe you have something there, but they will beat a stock one no problem and are a lot lighter and handier.
5200 stuck piston how do i get it out?
the 5200 i got off of the bay came today and the piston is stuck in the cylinder it does not look scored but the saw does have signed of being in moisture. I have the cylinder bolts out and filled the cylinder of with marvels mystery oil through the plug hole. i rotated the flywheel as much as i could to see the cylinder from the bottom and it looks ok as well. what should i do? let it soak?
any advice please.
the 5200 i got off of the bay came today and the piston is stuck in the cylinder it does not look scored but the saw does have signed of being in moisture. I have the cylinder bolts out and filled the cylinder of with marvels mystery oil through the plug hole. i rotated the flywheel as much as i could to see the cylinder from the bottom and it looks ok as well. what should i do? let it soak?
any advice please.
Should have used a penetrant like Aero Kroil oil instead of a lubricating oil.
Dump that out and get some good stuff in it and let it set. Come back in a few days (or less) and it will probably free up.
You should have asked here first! LOL
I'd have to think a while on that one!!!
My ported 330 runs pretty good.
Mike
Mike, I built another "Super" 330 :msp_sneaky: I will be calling this one "Super Duper" 330. Yeah it's a runner, will spank the one you run in Kentucky......
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Yep. The rings probably rusted to the chrome. A few days with some penetrant should free it up.
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
If that is the case, It will definitely spank mine.
But I'm tickled with mine nonetheless.
Looking forward to running "Super Duper"!!!
Mike
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
So, you bringing it with you to the Poulan gtg? Just askin.
Speaking of which............have we got a date set for that yet???
Mike
So, you bringing it with you to the Poulan gtg? Just askin.
I just ordered 6 new 8R-19.5 tires for my motor home. 12 ply rubber ain't cheap either but that is a lllooooonnnnnnggggg way from way down south.
Similar threads
