Nik's Poulan Thread

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Got to luv the pos china crap fuel lines the new poulans come with. :dizzy:

Its yellow and not tygon. The inner lining was holding the filter in to the line end. But letting mix get by to clog up the carb with fines.
Went to pull filter off and the inner lining just kept coming out with it. :laugh:

Still using the clear vinyl crap on the 2 lines to primer too. :rolleyes:

View attachment 509686 View attachment 509687
That's the cheap crap some shops try to pawn off on ya.

Steve
 
So.. update on the 245A/306 hybrid. Finally got it sorted and she roared to life this evening. However, after ~10 seconds of piss revving, I noticed some smoke/steam coming off the crank on the PTO side (don't have clutch installed yet). Crank was hot enough that a spray of water boiled. Which seems abnormal, to say the least. So I'm assuming the PTO side crank bearing is in need of attention.

Bearing is listed as part no 32011. A quick ebay & google search indicates this may be hard to find. So, is it possible to remove the bearing (or maybe just the seal?) to clean & re-lubricate? It looks to be the needle roller type, not ball bearing type (like the flywheel side).

My intention is to fix & sell this saw on CL, as I already have a true 245a. Obviously I don't want to sell someone a bearing that's a time bomb, but if there's a simple and "good enough" way to service the bearing I already have, I'd love to hear about it.

Thoughts?

EDIT: Found out the part # has been superceeded to 530032011, which is easy to find. So... how much of a PITA is it to replace this bearing? For reference, I've never replaced bearings before, but I've done just about everything else on a saw. What are my chances of screwing it up?
 
What bar mounts are compatible with the S25DA? Any 3/8 low pro bar that would fir a poulanor are the mounts between the old poulans and new too different?
 
I'm assuming this is carbon buildup that my wife's late grandfather and I have been lucky enough to not have break off. whats the best way to remove it? I have heard that it is extremely advised NOT to use a metal scraper, so that leaves plastic or wood?

I'm also assuming I want the piston all the way up the cylinder so carbon doesn't fall into the cylinder.

IMG_20160625_214330275.jpg
 
I'm assuming this is carbon buildup that my wife's late grandfather and I have been lucky enough to not have break off. whats the best way to remove it? I have heard that it is extremely advised NOT to use a metal scraper, so that leaves plastic or wood?

I'm also assuming I want the piston all the way up the cylinder so carbon doesn't fall into the cylinder.

View attachment 510063

I use a popsicle stick. If you have a shop vac, hold the hose at the port when you're scraping it out.

If not, use some Q-tips to clean the bits out of the port.
 
I like using a couple of flat-handled toothbrushes. One ground to the shape of a letter opener and another chiseled. Keep the piston covering the port. I flush the carbon out as it chips off with WD-40. I use a nozzle on the garden hose and a fine stream of water for the final rinse. Just enough water to float any crunched up carbon still sticking.

I see Tim has you covered too.
 
I'm assuming this is carbon buildup that my wife's late grandfather and I have been lucky enough to not have break off. whats the best way to remove it? I have heard that it is extremely advised NOT to use a metal scraper, so that leaves plastic or wood?

I'm also assuming I want the piston all the way up the cylinder so carbon doesn't fall into the cylinder.

View attachment 510063

Not enuff to worry about. Put the muffler back on and run the peepee out of it.
 
Well, I had it apart for other reasons (fuel line and then found out the handle gasket and carb gasket needed to be replaced) so I figured I'd do as much maintenance as possible while I was at it.

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk
 
I wrapped up a 3rd 3000 today. It seems to run really well. It has a flocked filter that I am not certain how I will rescue. My other two have the nylon screen. It is getting thin in spots.

Took a pic with the other 2. Makes me want to go cut some firewood.

View attachment 510033
Wow, three Canadian 3000's. Nice.
 
Clutch-side crank seal for 245/306... an old thread here says 068091VM Dichtomatik is a very workable replacement. When I google for it, I get two results from the same distributor. One is indeed 068091VM, while the second is 068091VM-BX. Exactly the same price. Same minimum order quantity (8). Anyone know what the "BX" means?

URLs for reference:
068091VM: https://www.mrosupply.com/seals/2805847_068091vm_dichtomatik/

068091VM-BX: https://www.mrosupply.com/seals/oil-seals/1455531_068091vm-bx_dichtomatik/

Thanks!
 
Clutch-side crank seal for 245/306... an old thread here says 068091VM Dichtomatik is a very workable replacement. When I google for it, I get two results from the same distributor. One is indeed 068091VM, while the second is 068091VM-BX. Exactly the same price. Same minimum order quantity (8). Anyone know what the "BX" means?

URLs for reference:
068091VM: https://www.mrosupply.com/seals/2805847_068091vm_dichtomatik/

068091VM-BX: https://www.mrosupply.com/seals/oil-seals/1455531_068091vm-bx_dichtomatik/

Thanks!

From their site,

For rotary shaft seals, the suffix "-bx" or "-BX" at the end of a part number indicates that the shaft seal is individually boxed. The same part number without “-bx” indicates bulk, not boxed. Certs are only available for bulk parts at this time.
 
Clutch-side crank seal for 245/306... an old thread here says 068091VM Dichtomatik is a very workable replacement. When I google for it, I get two results from the same distributor. One is indeed 068091VM, while the second is 068091VM-BX. Exactly the same price. Same minimum order quantity (8). Anyone know what the "BX" means?

URLs for reference:
068091VM: https://www.mrosupply.com/seals/2805847_068091vm_dichtomatik/

068091VM-BX: https://www.mrosupply.com/seals/oil-seals/1455531_068091vm-bx_dichtomatik/

Thanks!
Poulan #530001936, Inner PTO Seal, Nominal 11/16" ID x 15/16" OD x 1/8"

I found those, no garter spring but they worked well.

There's a catalog error for one of the Dichto seals as noted in an old post, it was for the smaller outer grease seal for the oiler gear cover. Do you need me to find it?

IIRC, the BX is the same seal in a "BOX", versus several seals stacked in a sleeve pack.
 
Picked up a nice 306A the other day. Traded a guy a Homelite XL 14" bar & a Skilsaw 1611 (both saws were finicky & I could never get them to run for very long) for it. The Poulan idled & ran great....for like two minutes. When I got it home, I started to go through it. Easy fix. Opened up the fuel tank and found the fuel line in two pieces with the filter lying in the bottom of the tank with a bunch of crud. Cleaned everything up, threw a 20" bar on it, and I've got myself a nice runner.
 
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