mopar969
ArboristSite Operative
Hey guys does anyone know the number of links and the bar I can use for an 18" setup on the poulan pro 5020? Oregon's bar selector tool only lists details for the 20" setup. Thanks!
Nik's Poulan Thread
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Make sure.... 68DL
@Acornhill I split or build from bare cases up a bunch and still do. For use, not for saw shows though.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Craftsman 4.2 (Poulan 4200). Got it not too long ago for $35, needed new piston and rings which are still available, cleaned it up, painted the muffler, replace crank seals, new fuel line, good to go!
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Anybody know the PN for the Poulan 3300 crank seals?
https://www.partstree.com/parts/poulan/parts/530019146/
Nate, Lots of Poulan IPL's here.
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/poulan/partslist.html
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Thanks Tim, I suppose I could have searched harder, just thought someone might know off the top of their head. I appreciate it!
I do and know OhioGregg has.
Build them the way you like them IMO. Same ole **** just gets old.
Depends on whether you.re putting them in the case first (on saws with split cases) or on the crank.
If going into the case halves, heat the cases to around 300 degrees by your method of choice. I use a toaster oven. Some use a heat gun just around the bearing seat area. Some use the YF's kitchen oven. Some also freeze the bearings first also, but I haven't found that necessary if the case is adequately heated up. The bearings should just drop into place. Needs to be done fairly quickly as the case will shrink back to normal size fast.
If going onto the crank first, freeze the crank and heat the bearings by your method of choice. Hot oil works well. Some use a heat gun or torch but they shouldn't need nearly that much heat to slide right onto the cold crank.
The latter method then allows for heating the case halves to quite easily install the crank and button it up as well.
edit: I was thinking typical ball bearings, not roller bearings. I would imagine the same methods should still apply. Haven't done any roller bearings yet myself, tho.
I always like that pic......, in any thread.
ANewSawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
My rim clutch drum came today. Getting ready to open the package.
Drum roll Maestro
I need to switch my grey one over to rim. Where did u get yours?
-•------------------------------------------------------------
Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines
Craftsman 3.7 x2
Husqvarna 36
ANewSawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looks fantastic. The part that goes over the crank and bearing surface has old grease on it. Truly new old stock. I do have a question though. On my current drum there is a large spacer washer that goes on the crank between drum and clutch. Just looking at the Oregon, the clutch bell looks shallower. Do I leave the large spacer washer out? Just clutch drum then thread the clutch on?
Ebay.
Put the washer in. You want to make sure the drum doesn't lock to the clutch. The clutch needs to be within the drum though. Not a bit of it outside the drum.
The new Oregon rims have wear bars so u can tell when to change
-•------------------------------------------------------------
Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines
Craftsman 3.7 x2
Husqvarna 36
-•------------------------------------------------------------
Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines
Craftsman 3.7 x2
Husqvarna 36
Have to many yellow oem so I wanted my own look in green and
Red is oem too so I went with orange on another project I started. 
ANewSawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ok, hope it fits as the Oregon drum looks a lot narrower.
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