Nik's Poulan Thread

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I have a Poulan 306A and the recoil seems to be slow at retrieving the starter rope.
Anybody have experience with this and what to look for?

Yes. The sealed needle bearing, recoil spring & the two phenolic washers get oily crap built up on
them & then gum up after 40 year of service.

You'll have to pull the left cover (three screws) & the flywheel off first. Loosen the three cover screws
with the correct sized flat blade screwdriver bit & an impact driver, as they are in tight with Loctite and
you'll bugger the heads up if you use a sloppy fitted screwdriver. Heat from a propane torch
will help break the Loctite loose too.

Take the whole starter assembly off, then take it apart & clean it up really well with gas or carb cleaner.
Lube the needle bearing only (grease is fine) and clean the crankshaft snout offf when you put it back together.

Note that the IPL drawing is reversed on the two phenolics' location, and that the felt pad on the inner
washer (if an older points type saw) should still be intact to keep the internals clean...you can oil the felt if
you want, but I never have.

That saw & the 245 series are also the only ones I have ever seen with a rivet pin in the rope end at the pulley
end, instead of a knot. There was not enough clearance for knot in the narrow rope spool. A cut off finish nail
works as a replacement for that pin, if you need to replace the rope.
 

Attachments

  • 306A IPL POINTS.pdf
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Yes. The sealed needle bearing, recoil spring & the two phenolic washers get oily crap built up on
them & then gum up after 40 year of service.

You'll have to pull the left cover (three screws) & the flywheel off first. Loosen the three cover screws
with the correct sized flat blade screwdriver bit & an impact driver, as they are in tight with Loctite and
you'll bugger the heads up if you use a sloppy fitted screwdriver. Heat from a propane
will help brake the Loctite loose too.

Take the whole starter assembly off, then take it apart & clean it up really well with gas or carb cleaner.
Lube the needle bearing only (grease is fine) and clean the crankshaft snout offf when you put it back together.

Note that the IPL drawing is reversed on the two phenolics' location, and that the felt pad on the inner
washer (if an older points type saw) should still be intact to keep the internals clean...you can oil the felt if
you want, but I never have.

That saw & the 245 series are also the only ones I have ever seen with a rivet pin in the rope end at the pulley
end, instead of a knot. There was not enough clearance for knot in the narrow rope spool. A cut off finish nail
works as a replacement for that pin, if you need to replace the rope.

The 10 series yellow saws use a rivet in the end of the rope as well.
 
Customers 3700, he says it is all original. Has the 3400 flywheel and pulley on it
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