Nik's Poulan Thread

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My 2900 is a great little saw. Like all Poulans they need the muffler freed up. My favourite little saw.
Like said lot of folks love them 46cc under saws with plastic cases. Pretty light too.

I just prefer the mag cased saws even in the poulan 46cc with tad more PHO weight and can put a 49cc 54cc tops on those too.

But close to same weight ( .5 = 8 ounces). Echo has saws out now in 50cc with mag cases I really love for my small saws. 4910 501 490.

Another plus is bolt on cylinders on mag cased over a clamshell design for most plastic cased saws.




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e490p.jpg
 
Have an old craftsman chainsaw based on the poulan 2000. Rebuilt the carb couple years ago, ran it a while, and put on the shelf with no fuel. Took it down last week to sell it but wouldn’t start. Okay, no biggie, I’ll just clean the carb up and it’ll start. Right? Wrong. Cleaned carb couple more times. No dice. Saw will run with fuel in carb.
Tried it with another carb, that’s not a known runner, with no luck. Good spark. Compression is 120psi. No scoring on piston.
Gonna try it with a known runner.
We’ll see.
What am I missing?
 
Have an old craftsman chainsaw based on the poulan 2000. Rebuilt the carb couple years ago, ran it a while, and put on the shelf with no fuel. Took it down last week to sell it but wouldn’t start. Okay, no biggie, I’ll just clean the carb up and it’ll start. Right? Wrong. Cleaned carb couple more times. No dice. Saw will run with fuel in carb.
Tried it with another carb, that’s not a known runner, with no luck. Good spark. Compression is 120psi. No scoring on piston.
Gonna try it with a known runner.
We’ll see.
What am I missing?
Fuel lines are always good at cracking on Poulans. It's usually why I get them cheap, carb kit and fuel lines and they're good to go usually.
 
Have an old craftsman chainsaw based on the poulan 2000. Rebuilt the carb couple years ago, ran it a while, and put on the shelf with no fuel. Took it down last week to sell it but wouldn’t start. Okay, no biggie, I’ll just clean the carb up and it’ll start. Right? Wrong. Cleaned carb couple more times. No dice. Saw will run with fuel in carb.
Tried it with another carb, that’s not a known runner, with no luck. Good spark. Compression is 120psi. No scoring on piston.
Gonna try it with a known runner.
We’ll see.
What am I missing?
Mud daubers in the muffler?? Don't laugh!! I've had that before! Lol 😅
 
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The PR 4218 is finally back together.New b&c , fuel lines ,oiler checked out and a good cleaning. And it cuts straight too:happybanana: The muffler mod got put on hold due to die grinder issues. I have a picture of the muffler apart showing the inner workings. The picture was sent to me by fellow member ScottR . Hopefully it will help someone out . Y’all Be Safe!B0C8DE95-79DC-4217-AC90-60C6FECFCA28.png2791E970-124D-4F13-B760-B68AD6D1203E.jpeg
 
Interesting but at the same time frustrating experience today with a PP295. I'd worked on this one some while ago and while it has been running and cutting since then, the customer noted it didn't seem to oil the chain very well.

After going through a few other similar saws recently I was reminded of the newer one piece oil pick up fitting and asked him to bring his saw back so I could have a look. I installed the new one piece line and it did pump oil, but none of it would come out at the bar pad, it all seemed to come out at the bottom of the cover plate.

I tried everything I could think of and could never get it to pump oil to the outlet at the bar pad, so I decided to mount the bar using a few washers (as spacers in place of the clutch cover) and fired up the saw with the chain off. Low and behold, the oil was pumping freely to the oil hole in the bar.

I have never had this kind of issue with any other saw, but evidently some of these mostly plastic saws need the bar in place and pressing against the cover plate to keep it flat and seal the outlet so the oil will flow to the bar.

Thanks again to Fossil for making me aware of the one piece oiler pick up fittings.

Mark
 
I have a PR4218 and a PP4218A that I need the rubber grommet the fuel line goes through on the tank.It is the line from fuel filter to the carb.I have looked at different parts diagrams but have not found it yet.Thank You in advance.
 
I have a PR4218 and a PP4218A that I need the rubber grommet the fuel line goes through on the tank.It is the line from fuel filter to the carb.I have looked at different parts diagrams but have not found it yet.Thank You in advance.

Hello skeet88 , the PP4218AVX that I replaced the fuel line on did not have a rubber grommet . The hole in the tank was slightly smaller than the 0.080 by 0.140 factory fuel line .
I drilled the fuel tank hole to 11/64" to use the 3/32" by 3/16" Tygon fuel line .
 
Hello skeet88 , the PP4218AVX that I replaced the fuel line on did not have a rubber grommet . The hole in the tank was slightly smaller than the 0.080 by 0.140 factory fuel line .
I drilled the fuel tank hole to 11/64" to use the 3/32" by 3/16" Tygon fuel line .
I reckon I got 2 oddballs.I did use the larger (3/32x3/16) line like you suggested. I used some rtv around the old grommet to help hold it in.Noticed it leaking fuel when I turned it on it’s side to fell a tree before I changed the fuel lines. Just want to find a replacement . Thank you for the info. Be Safe.
 
I reckon I got 2 oddballs.I did use the larger (3/32x3/16) line like you suggested. I used some rtv around the old grommet to help hold it in.Noticed it leaking fuel when I turned it on it’s side to fell a tree before I changed the fuel lines. Just want to find a replacement . Thank you for the info. Be Safe.

There is a adhesive/sealant called Seal-All that is oil and gas resistant that will fix gas tank leaks . It does not dry hard it is somewhat flexible when cured .
 
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