Newby here.. tyring to decide on which OWB to buy, My neighbor has a Central, I know a man with a Hardy, and we have a dealer close by that sells Empyre.. I wonder if there is a rating chart I could look at before i purchase one? thanks!
OWB ratings?
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jrider
Addicted to ArboristSite
I just bought my first OWB in October. I never found a site like you are hoping for but the best thing I can tell you is to look on every site possible for information. Don't just jump on something right away because it works for a friend of yours. Everyone has their own need and issues they are willing to deal with. Check out outdoorwoodforum for a pretty good breakdown of what issues people have had with many of the companies out there.
Me, I went with a gasification boiler from Portage and Main. I could not be happier with it.
Me, I went with a gasification boiler from Portage and Main. I could not be happier with it.
Woodomaker
ArboristSite Operative
I have a CB 6048.....#1 reason is the dealer is close......and I went to several sites prior to purchase and asked questions. Most people are more than willing to show off how live off the gird as much as possible.
porta mill
ArboristSite Operative
look at the Empyre. I have one and love it. In the eight years I have had mine I had to replace the Aqustat and the low water level indicator. The indicator was covered by warrante. I love having the ash pan. rake over the ashes and they fall down through the grooves no shoveling the ashes out of the fire box like central boilers.I do not know any thing about Hardy. One otherother thing l if you can afford it try to get the stainless steel model . one other Company to look at is Crown Royal. they have the abslity to burn coal if you to run out of wood > good luck in you owb purchase.
roger m
ArboristSite Operative
i have an h4 hardy i purchased 3years ago it will pay for itself this winter,i have been very happy with it:msp_thumbsup:
mtfallsmikey
Addicted to ArboristSite
Regardless of brand, do a complete heat loss calc, figure out you specific needs for the system you wish to install, then size the boiler.
greendohn
firewood hack
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Established dealership can be important. Established manufacturer is important. You'll want to avoid the "here today gone tomorrow" dealership and manufacturers.
Stainless vs. mild steel/boiler plate is up to you.
Stainless vs. mild steel/boiler plate is up to you.
owbguy
ArboristSite Operative
I have had the Central Boiler 6048 for 8 seasons and love it. Its perfect for my needs. I have a 2600 square foot ranch with 9' and 12' ceilings and full basement, and I heat two 50 gallon water heaters. I get burn times exceeding 24 hours loading to 75% or less. When I bought my owb it appeared to be the best quality on the market and I have a dealer nearby. In 8 seasons I replaced the door gasket once as a precaution, and the water pump once because it finally died. I have had no other repairs or problems.
Do some research. Check out the customer testimonials on forums like this one. Make sure you go look at the units in person. Buy what you need, and don't be afraid to spend the money if you can afford it. I'm not sure about current prices, but my owb paid for itself in the first 3 seasons. I used LP before that and the cost of LP has since gone up considerably. So, cost up front may seem high, but you will get it back quickly.
If I replaced my CB today, I would take a long, hard look at the Portage & Main Wood Gasification units. They cost more but they are amazing and more environmentally friendly. jrider has one and he says he is very happy with it.
Good luck. Its an investment. Do it right and do it once.
Do some research. Check out the customer testimonials on forums like this one. Make sure you go look at the units in person. Buy what you need, and don't be afraid to spend the money if you can afford it. I'm not sure about current prices, but my owb paid for itself in the first 3 seasons. I used LP before that and the cost of LP has since gone up considerably. So, cost up front may seem high, but you will get it back quickly.
If I replaced my CB today, I would take a long, hard look at the Portage & Main Wood Gasification units. They cost more but they are amazing and more environmentally friendly. jrider has one and he says he is very happy with it.
Good luck. Its an investment. Do it right and do it once.
4b316
ArboristSite Lurker
hot water heater
Is there a reason you heat two 50 gallon tanks of hot water?
Is there a reason you heat two 50 gallon tanks of hot water?
owbguy
ArboristSite Operative
I had one and it wasn't enough hot water. Jacuzzi tub, kids, etc. seem to use a lot of hot water.
4b316
ArboristSite Lurker
heater
We put in a 16 plate heater at our church and it runs two apartments plus the fellowship hall and it run all the hot water costantly,just was wondering if you had another use for hot water.The farmers around here take out their 100 gallon hot water heaters and put in plate heaters
We put in a 16 plate heater at our church and it runs two apartments plus the fellowship hall and it run all the hot water costantly,just was wondering if you had another use for hot water.The farmers around here take out their 100 gallon hot water heaters and put in plate heaters
owbguy
ArboristSite Operative
no, and at the time I needed to make the change it was easier and cheaper to just add the second water heater. hindsight. I'd do it differently now.
MattNH
ArboristSite Lurker
I looked for the same kind of comparison chart, report, website etc., but there was nothing. Each state has different regulations and if they require an EPA Phase 2 approved OWB, the OWB manufacturers must then volunteer to undergo the process. So its different depending on where you live and...got to love the government making our lives easier once again.
After doing all the research, I had a Portage & Main Optimizer 250 installed in December and couldn't be happier.
I decided on the P&M over a Central Boiler because there was less in the way of electronics. Since I sell electronics for a living and know how much they love hostile environments. The CB control panel is exposed to heat on one side, cold on the other, and is in direct sunlight etc..
The folks on this site will be helpful. Best of luck in the process.
After doing all the research, I had a Portage & Main Optimizer 250 installed in December and couldn't be happier.
I decided on the P&M over a Central Boiler because there was less in the way of electronics. Since I sell electronics for a living and know how much they love hostile environments. The CB control panel is exposed to heat on one side, cold on the other, and is in direct sunlight etc..
The folks on this site will be helpful. Best of luck in the process.
jrider
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was swayed from the CB to the P&M for that same exact reason. There seems to be less than can go wrong with the Opt. 250 I do hear a lot of happy CB users though.
owbguy
ArboristSite Operative
I don't think either is a bad choice, and should be on top of the OP's list
mtfallsmikey
Addicted to ArboristSite
no problems with my controller on my CB 5036., Dwyer makes a direct replacement controller, in a pinch a strap-on aquastat w/ differential would do.
THE PLUMMER
ArboristSite Member
This is the most intelligent and important post here. When and you should have estimates, if they don't automatically do a Manual J for your system, then you should automatically toss their quote in the trash because thats what its worth. That or if they go directly to the heating equipment you have now and use the input output plate sizing method, basically putting in what you are using now. Then and if you already have baseboard or radiators, they will measure them up and calculate how many btu's you need. These are all the signs of an unqualified salesman, which means you could buy the best of the best and if they sized or install it wrong nothing will work to the specifications or efficiency it was designed to. Both P&M and Central are great units, when installed correctly.
ran3465
ArboristSite Operative
What is involved in doing heat loss calculations for a home? I hear lots of talk about it but never really hear it explained
mtfallsmikey
Addicted to ArboristSite
You measure length, width of house, length of walls exposed to outside, room height, size/type of exterior windows/doors, wall, attic insuation thickness, calculate the amount of heat lost (or gained, for A.C. sizing) by the construction of the building, then you come up with a figure, expressed in BTU/hr., of what you need to heat/cool the house. Around my area, heat loss calcs. are traditionally done to state that X number of BTU's (example 50,000 BTU/hr.) are needed to keep a house at 70 deg. at 0 deg. outside temperature. You calculate how many BTU's are needed for each room, get the total needed, then size pipe, pumps, radiant, baseboard, and/or ductwork size to suit your needs. Be wary of those who just ask how many square ft. you have, it is so wrong to do that. I know how to do this, but will not perform such calcs. on buildings that I cannot personally see, I do not want to be wrong, and liable. This info can easily be found on the 'net, or contact a (good) HVAC contractor, would well be worth the money to pay a pro to do this IMHO.
ran3465
ArboristSite Operative
I gotcha, I figured it would be complicated.. What would someone expect to pay to have a heat loss calulation done for a residential home? I have a new home with new hvac, If everything seems to work well with the heating and cooling equipment i have, could a man go off of the size of the furnace/heatpump/ac to figure a btu per hour need?
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