Poulan: What model

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A little hard to tell exactly - it's a 46cc, probably a 2600 or 2750. It may have parts from a couple of saws, as the recoil cover has the "Super Clean" name, but you can see that it has the blue filter scoop from the "Turbo Clean" system (this is an advantage). Someone either added the scoop, as I did on my 2775, or the recoil is from a later saw.

The muffler is an early Type I version, which is good because it is easy to mod and has a big outlet. The heat shield has no deflector over by the exhaust outlet, which may be because they all break off there. It's OK because it does not have a chain brake, but if it did that would probably melt the handle of it.

You need a top cover with a hand guard, or you can put a chain brake on it easily. Make sure you check the engine mounting bolts, as they have a habit of backing out.

Here's what I've been doing with mine: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/200511.htm

I like it a lot, it's cheap but quite capable, light and fun to run.
 
I believe, due to the lack of chainbrake and rear handle style, that you have either a 2500, 2600 or 2700.

Mike
Yes, I missed the different rear handle.

Also, if that's the original 33SL chain, it is hopeless unless you remove the shark fin bumpers - get a loop of 20BPX

Here is something I wrote up on these saws at one time:

<blockquote>Poulan 2500

Models include the 2500, 2550, 2600, 2700, 2750, 2775, 3050, PP255, PP295, PP4620, PP310, PP315, as well as the Jonsered 2036 and 2040. Displacements run from 36cc to 49cc. There is no primer bulb, and the Jonsered versions have a different shaped recoil and top cover just for decoration. The engines in this family are different from those in the Wild Thing family saws. For one, the crank is about 1/2” narrower, and the flywheel has shallower fins, allowing the whole saw to be lighter and much narrower as well. They are about 10lbs.

The connecting rod has an I-beam cross section. They use a chromed bore. The exhaust port shape is very similar to the Wild Thing, but the intake is a bit different. These saws respond very well to opening up the muffler and make a surprising amount of power for their displacement. They use Walbro WT carbs and a flocked air filter.

There is an external handle frame with a spring-type suspension for isolation, which tends to be rather soft.

Some of these are labeled “Turbo” and some are “Super Clean” - the Turbo versions use the small scoop by the flywheel fan to keep debris out of the airbox, while the Super Clean ones just have a pickup in the air stream between the cylinder and the carb. Only the Super Clean type parts are available any more, but they mostly interchange – there are some differences between early and later saws regarding the intake boot and impulse line.

Chain brakes are on most later saws. Most of these use 0.325” chain.

I have found three design weaknesses on these saws. First, the muffler heat shield on earlier Type I saws fatigue fails in the area around the muffler outlet. If you have a chain brake it can melt when the deflector falls off, and heat damage around the muffler is common. Second, the engine mount screws often back out. There is no locking hardware and they sit in a floating shoulder bushing that can spin so it would not work well anyway. Locktite will not work well with the thread type on the original screws. Many saws have been damaged by lost or broken screws. Last, the A/V mounts are easily damaged if the saw gets pinched and a gorilla tries to yank it out. </blockquote>
 
I really like this family of little saws!
They will open the eyes of the "saw snobs" with amazing regularity, they run and handle great, cut much larger than their size would indicate and are the perfect "truck saw".
Any would be thieves will see it and say "No sense taking a chance on getting caught over a damned ol' Poulan"!!!LOL


Mike
 
I've got one of those tore down needing a top end in Craftsman colors. I was impressed how well built it was.
 
Except for the dopers, who don't know jack about chainsaw brands, and will do anything to get a few bucks for their next fix.

HF



Luckily here where I'm located we....er....THEY have killed most of them off!
The ones that are left know that there is "easier pickins" in the next county over.


Mike
 
I pulled the muffler, gonna ad some extra holes so she can breathe better. Laid a piece of solder over the piston through the exhaust port and pinched it off with the piston. Measures about 40mm. Not the most accurate method but pretty close. Maybe the 2500?
 
I pulled the muffler, gonna ad some extra holes so she can breathe better. Laid a piece of solder over the piston through the exhaust port and pinched it off with the piston. Measures about 40mm. Not the most accurate method but pretty close. Maybe the 2500?

Sound like it could be a 2500, the 2700 is a 42mm bore.
 
I really like this family of little saws!
They will open the eyes of the "saw snobs" with amazing regularity, they run and handle great, cut much larger than their size would indicate and are the perfect "truck saw".
Any would be thieves will see it and say "No sense taking a chance on getting caught over a damned ol' Poulan"!!!LOL


Mike

I've got a 2900, I think, according to your brother anyway, and I love that little saw. For 46 cc's it rips!!
 
I pulled the muffler, gonna ad some extra holes so she can breathe better. Laid a piece of solder over the piston through the exhaust port and pinched it off with the piston. Measures about 40mm. Not the most accurate method but pretty close. Maybe the 2500?
I have a complete(short the carb and muffler) 46cc powerhead from a 2900 I'd give you if i could just hand it off. Don't know for sure it would fit either. Be a way to make a sleeper out of a 2500 if it would.
 
I have a complete(short the carb and muffler) 46cc powerhead from a 2900 I'd give you if i could just hand it off. Don't know for sure it would fit either. Be a way to make a sleeper out of a 2500 if it would.

I appreciate the offer but I think I will just open up the muffler a little and put a better chain on it. Got too many saws any way.
 
Just drill open some of the holes in the internal baffle, and pry open the (already large) existing outlet a bit with a big screwdriver.

There are three screws holding the muffler on, the two you can see and a third that only holds the inner shell on. You have to remove the outer two and then pry the case halves apart.
 
opened muffler/ new chain

Just drill open some of the holes in the internal baffle, and pry open the (already large) existing outlet a bit with a big screwdriver.

There are three screws holding the muffler on, the two you can see and a third that only holds the inner shell on. You have to remove the outer two and then pry the case halves apart.

Added some holes to the muffler, same thing I did on both my 3000's. Put a real chain on it. Cut pretty good for 40cc's. Of the models mentioned, do they share the same top cover assembly?

Poulan :: 100_0837.jpg picture by sgilbert9226 - Photobucket
 

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