Project Clearing Saw: Husqvarna 250RX

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OK, I managed to save the cylinder with a quick hone job, looks great.

Now all I need is a piston, ring and base gasket and away we go.

Unfortunately my local dealer can't even order parts. Nice.
 
Hey Jack_shaft,check your PM.

Thanks for sending me that info! Would you mind if I posted it here so that any person checking this thread in the future (or searching for 250RX) will know what they should be buying when replacing the top end on this clearing saw?
 
Ordered the parts from a dealer about 300mi from me. He will ship the parts to me on Monday/Tuesday next week.

Piston + ring + base gasket + shipping was about $180. Not too bad, but sure as heck isn't free!

Hope to reassemble it next week some time.
 
Troll, I'm looking, shopping and comparing parts right now and I have found a few 51 & 55 top ends on eBay. The intake side of the chainsaw cylinder looks very different from the brush cutter one. The csaw one has a raised intake spigot to accept a rubber carb boot; the brush saw cyl is machined flat with two threaded holes for holding the carb assy tight against it.

Did your brother by chance grab the whole cylinder/ carb assy when he did the swaps you speak of, or did he just do the P & C?


Sorry, I don't know how he made them fit, but he sure did - he is known to change the intakes, and put larger carbs on things as well...:greenchainsaw:
 
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Well, as an update to this thread I have the new Piston installed and the saw doesn't work at all. It fires two or three times then dies and will not start again. Lots of compression, will blow my thumb off the hole repeatedly with a good pull.

Has tons of spark, I cleaned the carb thoroughly and the spark arrestor screen has been removed. Won't even start wth prime! Ack!

Do I have an oil seal busted? I am thinking yes. Now I have to somehow separate the power head from the driveshaft, change out the seals, etc, etc.

Good fun. I have never tried this before but i think you can change Husky oil seals without pulling the crank halves apart, yes? :cry:
 
For whatever reason, the sucker decides to work today. It was flooded real bad, had to get all of the fuel out of it and turn the fuel screws way down. Now it looks like the driveshaft isn't turning or the bearing is making it hard to turn the head shaft. Need to have a further look tonight.

I'll take any problem other than crank seals. What a relief.
 
For whatever reason, the sucker decides to work today. It was flooded real bad, had to get all of the fuel out of it and turn the fuel screws way down. Now it looks like the driveshaft isn't turning or the bearing is making it hard to turn the head shaft. Need to have a further look tonight.

I'll take any problem other than crank seals. What a relief.
Check your clutch,if the are not worn out as well the clutch drum.On the clutch drum,you should not have a "ridge" on it.
 
I guess I need to separate the ccase assy from the handle in order to have a good look at the clutch. I thought that these might be direct drive, guess not.
 
Thanks for sending me that info! Would you mind if I posted it here so that any person checking this thread in the future (or searching for 250RX) will know what they should be buying when replacing the top end on this clearing saw?
I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if you still had the details on replacement top ends for this clearing saw? I have a 250Rx that was severely abused by a previous owner and am assessing whether I can get it running for relatively little cost.
Thanks
 
I will have a look for you but I make no promises, this was a while ago. For what it's worth, once I got this thing running it died again very shortly thereafter. I trashed it after that and quite frankly if I ever saw another for a good deal, I would pass on it as it was a very problematic model.
 
You know what? Don't worry about it. The more I dug into the different parts, the more damage I found. I'm going to salvage the few usable parts and sell them on eBay for t'pence and wash my hands of this thing. I think I'll use the shaft in the garden to prop up the tomato plants!!

On to the next project...
 
I have one of these same machines and it seized also. Like this chap, the piston & bore tried to exchange metal surfaces.
I reckon all was done properly with this machine. It was taken to the Philippines to do a job on some of our dirt over there. We ended up not using it so when it came back home with us it was put into storage for about 3 years. Before we took it there to the Philippines, I asked the local machine shop (who are the agents for the Husky range of saws and cutters) to do every thing that might help it be perfectly operational. That included a max' Rev' check/setting and to get it all ticketie-boo. Yet, when I did liven it up for the 1st time since the shop had looked at it (with fresh fuel & oil mixture), it did about 5 to 7 minutes work and then seized.

What I had found, was that the open celled foam air filter element had perished during the storage time and then got sucked into the carb. It seized mostly on the exhaust side of the barrel.
On checking prices for a repair, it was only about a quart of the amount more in dollar terms, than a replacement machine of the same size! So it sits waiting for a miracle. It had been used quite a lot before this episode and it certainly was a grunty machine and once set up properly, it was a excellent machine to use, for quite some time, without back or arm strain,.....hence my reluctance (until now) to chuck it out. NO..... after reading all these comments, I think its time to send it to China so as they can make it into some other crap.

So from a Kiwi down under, thanks guys for adding all the comments to this topic. It obviously took quite some time to write it all up and its a shame that it was a costly blunder for you, but its saved me from a likely same fate, so.... thanks again.

Cheers
 

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