stihl warranty problem

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Now I heard there hasn't been a good vid sense I left. We need to get this place going back to the glory days. I let you have free run to long. LOL

Health has been a day to day fight. You know me though. I will beat it in the A$$.

So true. I know ya been under the weather Booker but me being the nice guy that I am I'm gonna let you know I don't giva hoot in hell, I'm still gonna lay a smack down on ya,LOLOLOL

Get your camera ready and come on, its been along time man, good to have ya back,:cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
Thats what I'm saying, I've seen guys hold the gas to a braked saw for at least a minute. Don't make since why anyone would do that if it's not cutting. If thats what this guy did, I'd buy him an electric chainsaw next time, he's gonna get hurt.

:agree2:

This guy is the person that caused safety chain to be invented in the first place. Please don't tell him about the good stuff.
 
I gurantee my 200t has been activated and deactivated a gazillion times and it still wont turn when engaged.
 
fair go

my neighbour is a decent stand up guy and isnt after that much , just a chainsaw that works . i just rang him and checked and he said the chain was still spinning up to the point the saw stopped.i dont care how many stihl dealers tell me it cannot happen , it did so explain it to me . stihl are supposed to be a quality product but would you be happy with anything that died after less than 15 minutes use . he may as well bought a chinese saw but then maybe he did , where are they made these days . i dont care if they are a homeowner saw ,nothing should be so fragile that its that easily killed .
 
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I have 6 021-025's on the shelf all with chain brake damage. All have melted cases. I stihl have no idea how they could do it since with the brake on it won't spin the chain. I'm always looking for good 021-025 cases cheap...
 
my neighbour is a decent stand up guy and isnt after that much , just a chainsaw that works . i just rang him and checked and he said the chain was still spinning up to the point the saw stopped.i dont care how many stihl dealers tell me it cannot happen , it did so explain it to me . stihl are supposed to be a quality product but would you be happy with anything that died after less than 15 minutes use . he may as well bought a chinese saw but then maybe he did , where are they made these days . i dont care if they are a homeowner saw ,nothing should be so fragile that its that easily killed .

I don't think anybody blamed it on the fact that it's the howeowner model. As stated the 210 uses the same brake as the 200 and so on. What people are saying is that the guy din't realize something was wrong by the smell of melting plastic. That therefore makes it the users fault and not the company. Maybe if the saw was taken back and said, hey the chainbrake isn't functioning properly I would gurantee it would have been handled. Now you have a saw that looks like it was used for flamethrower target practice. If your the dealer what would you do? I use stihl and husqvarna everyday and they are quality but they arent bullet proof either.
 
my neighbour is a decent stand up guy and isnt after that much , just a chainsaw that works . i just rang him and checked and he said the chain was still spinning up to the point the saw stopped.i dont care how many stihl dealers tell me it cannot happen , it did so explain it to me . stihl are supposed to be a quality product but would you be happy with anything that died after less than 15 minutes use . he may as well bought a chinese saw but then maybe he did , where are they made these days . i dont care if they are a homeowner saw ,nothing should be so fragile that its that easily killed .

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm. Is it possible that the chain brake in the off position was touching the clutch drum just enough to generate heat, but not enough to stop the chain? The drum would get hotter and expand, and engage more, creating more heat, at which point rpms would drop and it would be a race between the motor stalling and the plastic melting. It could happen fast enough that a newbie wouldn't catch it. He wouldn't feel the brake trip, he'd just think, "What the heck is going on?" which would be all the time it would take. Assuming that the neighbor is a modern day George Washington, that would cover the facts.

Jack
 
my neighbour is a decent stand up guy and isnt after that much , just a chainsaw that works . i just rang him and checked and he said the chain was still spinning up to the point the saw stopped.i dont care how many stihl dealers tell me it cannot happen , it did so explain it to me . stihl are supposed to be a quality product but would you be happy with anything that died after less than 15 minutes use . he may as well bought a chinese saw but then maybe he did , where are they made these days . i dont care if they are a homeowner saw ,nothing should be so fragile that its that easily killed .

Thats right, it was spinning till it stopped, thats when he tripped the brake. I know he's a good friend of yours and your standing up for him and thats great, your a good friend indeed. However when that chain stopped he didn't, he kept trying to make it go by throttling the saw and thats what melted his saw. The chain brake performed exactly like it should, it stopped the chain. Your friend should have stopped and reset the brake, he didn't, his mistake, has nothing to do with the quality of the product, the product performed as its designed to. Its just a lesson learned the hard way, nothing more....
 
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my neighbour is a decent stand up guy and isnt after that much , just a chainsaw that works . i just rang him and checked and he said the chain was still spinning up to the point the saw stopped.i dont care how many stihl dealers tell me it cannot happen , it did so explain it to me . stihl are supposed to be a quality product but would you be happy with anything that died after less than 15 minutes use . he may as well bought a chinese saw but then maybe he did , where are they made these days . i dont care if they are a homeowner saw ,nothing should be so fragile that its that easily killed .

Supposed to make a quality product? They do make a quality product. It just takes a sensible person to run one. Ask around on here and see how many more guys have fried a Sthil, husky, Dolmar, etc., in 15 minutes. Face it dude, your buddy fried his saw because he did'nt know how to run it. Sorry but the truth hurts sometimes. Tell him to bite the bullet and chalk it as a loss. Beginneres make beginner mistakes. :cheers:
 
chainbrake

understand your skepticism and also how he feels having paid good money for a saw that lasted 15 minutes , they are $500 out here so not cheap .what i cannot work out is why the clutch bearing had disintegrated in such a short time. he had cut the top off 9 split posts about 8" in size and started another , my saw took about 5 seconds for the cut (460) so less than 5 minutes cutting even for a 210 . brand new chain remember .
 
The clutch bearing race is thin plastic and right there in the hot zone.

If you bought a brand new car and drove it into a wall right after you bought it in the dealer's parking lot, you would be yelling "warranty"????

Again, you were not there when he was using it, so how do you know how it went down?
 
Its no biggie Spring , hell at the shop I have at least 5-10 saws a year come in with the owner hollering the chain won't turn. I've heard it so many times I now just reach over and CLICK and say it will now. Most take it well and admit I can't beleive I overlooked that. Some go what did you do, some get mad, some wanna argu and they're the ones who leave wishing they hadn't,LOL

Only 5-10 times a year, I think we get 5-6 in a week with the chainbrake tripped and they've got no clue how to get their saw running again. I enjoy seeing their faces when they released they drove all the way down to the shop for such a simple mistake.

I'm not a big fan of the 230/250 series of saw but they have a simple reliable brake system that works but you can wreck the saw pretty quick trying to get that chain to turn with the brake on.
 
understand your skepticism and also how he feels having paid good money for a saw that lasted 15 minutes , they are $500 out here so not cheap .what i cannot work out is why the clutch bearing had disintegrated in such a short time. he had cut the top off 9 split posts about 8" in size and started another , my saw took about 5 seconds for the cut (460) so less than 5 minutes cutting even for a 210 . brand new chain remember .

John do yourself a favor. Go out and fire up your 460 and set the brake on and throttle it up. You will hear exactly what your friend heard, a saw groaning because it can't rev up and spin the chain like it should. I think you will realise real quick your friend just didn't know any better and had no idea what he was hearing. Also, on your 460, if you leave the brake on and throttle it up long enough it will melt the plastic cage on your sprocket bearing too. It will also heat up the clutch springs so bad they will need replacing to get rid of that now rattling clutch. The only reason your 460 case won't melt is because its metal, not plastic. However the plastic brake cover above the clutch will melt just like that 210. 5 minutes throttled up with the brake on is good-bye anything plastic near the clutch drum..
 
The clutch bearing race is thin plastic and right there in the hot zone.

If you bought a brand new car and drove it into a wall right after you bought it in the dealer's parking lot, you would be yelling "warranty"????

Again, you were not there when he was using it, so how do you know how it went down?

Okay, the consensus seems to be that the saw owner is a lying sack of poo, and maybe he is, but what if he's not? Here's what makes me think of the other possibility. I've got a Ryobi 10532 that could have wound up like this. At one point I was kind of pushing it through some wood that was really too big for it. Didn't notice anything, but when I cleaned it later I saw that the brake band had some rub marks and the plastic clutch cover around the band had melted a bit. I trimmed back the melted plastic and found that the drum still turned freely, no rubbing when cold. My theory regarding my saw is that the clearance was small enough so that when I heated up the clutch with the bar buried it started to rub. No harm done in my case, but I can see how if I'd kept going more plastic would have melted, forcing the brake band into greater engagement, and so forth and so on. Note that this scenario does not require us to imagine the chain spinning with the brake engaged, which would be the kind of failure that the attorneys would find most interesting.

Jack
 
Nobody's saying he is a lying sack of poo, just saying he was ignorant on the proper way to run a saw. He did not understand the how the brake functions, understand when a motor is straining something is wrong, didn't understand when smoke and the smell of burning plastic starts occurring that you shut the dang saw down. He is just failing to take responsibilitly for his own actions.

I have seen numerous guys on here come clean and tell about their mistakes, it takes a lot of character to do it. This guy just wants to blame the saw manafacturer for his inexpierence and lack of saw knowledge. It's the first post I ever remember on this. I'll bet every brake is checked for proper function before it leaves the factory. Sounds like the owner needs to buddy up with someone who can teach him how to run a saw.

Friends don't let friends use and toast chainsaws.
 
Nobody's saying he is a lying sack of poo, just saying he was ignorant on the proper way to run a saw. He did not understand the how the brake functions, understand when a motor is straining something is wrong, didn't understand when smoke and the smell of burning plastic starts occurring that you shut the dang saw down. He is just failing to take responsibilitly for his own actions.

I have seen numerous guys on here come clean and tell about their mistakes, it takes a lot of character to do it. This guy just wants to blame the saw manafacturer for his inexpierence and lack of saw knowledge. It's the first post I ever remember on this. I'll bet every brake is checked for proper function before it leaves the factory. Sounds like the owner needs to buddy up with someone who can teach him how to run a saw.

Friends don't let friends use and toast chainsaws.

IS, I'm not trying to argue with you or Tom or Fish, I think a lot of all of you. But here's the pivotal point of his story, which nobody seems to believe, and which prompted my sack of poo comment: he says the chain was spinning up to the point the saw stopped, which is different from the chain stopping and him continuing to rev the saw. Everybody assumes the brake tripped and he continued to rev until the clutch fried, and that would certainly be his fault. Because I've had a similar experience with another saw, I've imagined a scenario where when the brake is disengaged the brake band rubs but does not stop the saw until enough heat is created to cook everything. Would an experienced operator smell something or feel an unusual resistance and shut off the saw? Of course, but an inexperienced operator in this scenario might not, and since he was operating the saw correctly (not having tripped the brake), it would be hard to blame him.

Again, the general assumption is that the chain brake is foolproof in that it is either off or on, and the fault in this case is continuing to rev the saw with it on. I've suggested another possibility. I'm not saying that's what happened, just that it would explain the guy's story.

Jack
 
i told him to take it back to the dealer as he had only used it for 15 minutes at the absolute max surely they would fix it for him .

Try buying a new truck and parking it on the railroad tracks in the first 15 minutes and see if the dealer will replace it for you. That's the equivalent of what you're asking.
 
who was there

as only one person was on the scene and no one else has any idea what happed on the day other than to bad name him i have to wonder why they are getting so hot under the collar . i have quite a few stihls and quite rightly think a lot of them but the last time i heard about it only one person or whatever has much of a claim to knowing it all and i dont think he needs a chainsaw . i have worked on motors all my life and #### happens ,no one or any manufacturer is infallible .this guy told me as he saw it and he WAS there.
 
Tell the Stihl Rep. your going to contact OSHA about unsafe illegal equipment being sold, that should get him a new (working) saw quick.

That would get a good laugh at any business of mine. I've heard your whining on here before, and I wouldn't give you a wooden nickle.
 
Only 5-10 times a year, I think we get 5-6 in a week with the chainbrake tripped and they've got no clue how to get their saw running again. I enjoy seeing their faces when they released they drove all the way down to the shop for such a simple mistake.

I'm not a big fan of the 230/250 series of saw but they have a simple reliable brake system that works but you can wreck the saw pretty quick trying to get that chain to turn with the brake on.

Half the older Huskys I get have had the clutch cover installed somehow with the brake on and they proceed to burn the band out of it.
 

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