the all aussie dribble thread!

[tdi-rick]

Rick I'm looking at fitting mums old reverse cycle in my shed she just fitted a new inverter job in her joint anyhow the hvac bloke recons there changing the gas or some bs and soon won't be able to gas it. What's the scoop?

The old R22 is being phased out and price is skyrocketing, it really is insane but there's a drop in replacement that is probably now cheaper and will become cheaper as sales volumes go up.

Having said that, you save all the gas in the old system when you pump it down (into the outdoor system) to disconnect it, and if it's pressure tested and evacuated properly before start up you shouldn't have an issue.
You're getting it at the right price so don't sweat it.

 

[David (saltas)]

Briquettes

fire wood and coal BRIQUETTES
we used both in the grandparents farm house heater and the kitchen stove

we used newspaper and pine cones to start and then a few BRIQUETTES
I think the only time fire wood or pine cones were used was when us young'ins was about


from a MSDS

Lignite, often referred to as brown coal, is the lowest rank of coal and used almost exclusively as fuel for steam-electric power generation.

It is brownish-black and has a high inherent moisture content, sometimes as high as 45 percent, and very high ash content compared to bituminous coal. The heat content of lignite ranges from 9 to 17 million Btu per short ton (10 to 20 MJ/kg) on a moist, mineral-matter-free basis. The heat content of lignite consumed in the United States averages 13 million Btu/ton (15 MJ/kg), on the as-received basis (i.e., containing both inherent moisture and mineral matter).

 

[tdi-rick]

Yeah but even on the coast, out is 2-13 say, to keep inside at 18 with ac it's working hard. A lack of wall insulation doesn't help.

The fire easily is low-mid 20's.

Most winters we see -7*C here regularly, so far we've had a really mild one, only seen -4* officially in town at the PO once so far this year.

The only a/c's that work here are Daikin, Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Mitsubishi Electric and Panasonic aren't too bad for a cheaper system. (actually the new ones are bloody good)
Up till this year I haven't rated the Koreans at all, (Samsung, LG) absolute #### comes to mind, but the reps reckon the latest ones work well, we'll see......

Insulation is a must, our little old humpy is, err, lacking a little.
Lots is hopefully going in soon.


[edit] Apologies to those that have a Samsung, LG or worse system, I really don't mean to offend, but I just don't rate their air conditioners having worked on them, sorry. (at least not at very low ambients)

 

[David (saltas)]

I have been working in Moranbah the last two weeks.

the mornings have been 15 below................what it is at home

 

[460cixy]

Matt (460cixy Matt )

Quick brake Q.

Booster twelve months old (genuine TRW) (previous had typical crack around m/c studs)
New vac pump but aftermarket Bearmach, not crap genuine Wabco (8 months or so old)

Nice firm pedal yet seemingly more pedal pressure needed than in the past and definitely more than the GU, yet the Landy used to have a better pedal yet seemingly more stopping power than the Patrol ??

Crap pads ? (Ferodo, been good in the past, usually recovered well from a fade period.....maybe I've hammered them once too often :monkey Sus M/C ? or possible crap vac pump ?

If possible vac pump, what sort of vacuum reading and where ?


Don't you just love work related questions after hours

Mate I just asked you work related question lol. Vac pump should pull about 20 inches or a little less but landy pumps are pretty slow to build vacume if
You can tee in the line from the pump to the booster is ideal but before you do that un plug the booster and check it at the fitting there and if alls good check it with the booster conected there's a valve in the booster that fails where there push rod goes in and leaks so with the gauge inline and foot off the brake it should have the same vac as you had straight off the pump if that's all good put your foot on the brake and watch the gauge it will drop at this point but if that valves rooted when the brakes applied the gauge will drop to zero or there abouts and as you know they crack where the mc bolts on I actually pulled my booster off and braised the cracks up cause I'm a tight bastard. If you have a good pedal I wouldn't look at the hydraulic side of it except makeing sure all the caliper pistons are free Ferodo pads I don't use or bentdix if you have had them real hot they may not bounce back the best pads I have found are the trw/ Lucas there the same mob. But there hard on rotors but stop well even under extrem heat if that does not answer ya question pm me and ile give you my number and give me a call

 

[tdi-rick]

I have been working in Moranbah the last two weeks.

the mornings have been 15 below................what it is at home

Your bloody overnight lows are our daytime maximums !

 

[460cixy]

The old R22 is being phased out and price is skyrocketing, it really is insane but there's a drop in replacement that is probably now cheaper and will become cheaper as sales volumes go up.

Having said that, you save all the gas in the old system when you pump it down (into the outdoor system) to disconnect it, and if it's pressure tested and evacuated properly before start up you shouldn't have an issue.
You're getting it at the right price so don't sweat it.

Well the bloke that decommissioned it will be doing the install I'm just worried about a few years down the track

 

[tdi-rick]

Mate I just asked you work related question lol. Vac pump should pull about 20 inches or a little less but landy pumps are pretty slow to build vacume if
You can tee in the line from the pump to the booster is ideal but before you do that un plug the booster and check it at the fitting there and if alls good check it with the booster conected there's a valve in the booster that fails where there push rod goes in and leaks so with the gauge inline and foot off the brake it should have the same vac as you had straight off the pump if that's all good put your foot on the brake and watch the gauge it will drop at this point but if that valves rooted when the brakes applied the gauge will drop to zero or there abouts and as you know they crack where the mc bolts on I actually pulled my booster off and braised the cracks up cause I'm a tight bastard. If you have a good pedal I wouldn't look at the hydraulic side of it except makeing sure all the caliper pistons are free Ferodo pads I don't use or bentdix if you have had them real hot they may not bounce back the best pads I have found are the trw/ Lucas there the same mob. But there hard on rotors but stop well even under extrem heat if that does not answer ya question pm me and ile give you my number and give me a call

I was going to plate and braze mine, but thought I'd **** the diaphragm, should've had a go.....

The pedal improved marginally with the new vac pump, but it was touch and go in the brake test at rego time back in January :monkey:

The Ferodo's have impressed me in the past at how well they've recovered, I killed a set of new Mintex pads on the race car umpteen years ago and could never get them back, even after milling 3mm off the face of the bastards.
Chalk one up to experience....

The Ferodo's are also really kind to the discs but you and JC have been saying very nice things about the TRW pads. Have to put an order in to Karcraft for some stuff this week.....

 

[tdi-rick]

Well the bloke that decommissioned it will be doing the install I'm just worried about a few years down the track

There'll be something available, there's just far too much stuff out there running that gas, and if it's all leak tight you won't have a problem.

Way back in '91 everyone cried the sky was falling when R12 was outlawed yet we can still run all the old systems with various blends that work fine.
Hell, someone still had some 12 and used it in an old Massey tractor system five months ago :monkey:

 

[460cixy]

I was going to plate and braze mine, but thought I'd **** the diaphragm, should've had a go.....

The pedal improved marginally with the new vac pump, but it was touch and go in the brake test at rego time back in January :monkey:

The Ferodo's have impressed me in the past at how well they've recovered, I killed a set of new Mintex pads on the race car umpteen years ago and could never get them back, even after milling 3mm off the face of the bastards.
Chalk one up to experience....

The Ferodo's are also really kind to the discs but you and JC have been saying very nice things about the TRW pads. Have to put an order in to Karcraft for some stuff this week.....

I just used low heat with a map gas gun the diafram is a fair way from where they crack but I may have just got lucky . Mines never had a soft pedal like jap stuff but stops better then my old patrol just with a bit more pedal effort what brake tester did they use? All ours are done on a brake dyno but other shops just use the g metre strapped to the pedal

 

[Rudolf73]

Sorry to butt in fellas but I see we are on page 777, that's lucky right?! :wave: arty:


As you were

 

[460cixy]

There'll be something available, there's just far too much stuff out there running that gas, and if it's all leak tight you won't have a problem.

Way back in '91 everyone cried the sky was falling when R12 was outlawed yet we can still run all the old systems with various blends that work fine.
Hell, someone still had some 12 and used it in an old Massey tractor system five months ago :monkey:

Good old r12 its around I haven't done auto ac in years but still know blokes with r12 stashed away

 

[tdi-rick]

I just used low heat with a map gas gun the diafram is a fair way from where they crack but I may have just got lucky . Mines never had a soft pedal like jap stuff but stops better then my old patrol just with a bit more pedal effort what brake tester did they use? All ours are done on a brake dyno but other shops just use the g metre strapped to the pedal

G meter as it's a local garage.

 

[460cixy]

How do you feel it stops? I normally wouldn't ask cause most ppl haven't a clue but you have a bit more experience them most. Mine has qfm pads in super x that's there normal family car sort of compound and cold it's great but give them a work out and they suffer but bounce back every time but mines rarely loaded up anywhere near its gvm Friction Material Developments :: High Quality Disc Brake Pads that's there website but I would still recommend trw and BREMTEC we use in BMW/Audi ect. I haven't tried them in something heavy

 

[tdi-rick]

Pedal is pretty bloody firm, (which I like, I'm an ex-racer !) and the pads need a reasonable amount of heat, eg a couple of stops from cold to stop OK.

It definitely used to stop better, ie. didn't need as much pedal pressure, although these pads (I've used a couple of sets) have always needed a little heat to stop at their best.

[edit] Thinking about it, it's a cold stop issue and a mu/friction co-efficient problem.
Could be a little pad glazing too, and discs are getting near the end of their life.


Hmm, maybe some DS2500 compound pads

 

[deepsouth]

Good old r12 its around I haven't done auto ac in years but still know blokes with r12 stashed away

Yeah amate of mine has a stash still. He only uses it now in a few custom rigs, like a 12v full stainless fridge a few of us had, made by Ellabys.

After it needed a new compressor, he then put an electronic control on and charged it on R12 rather than 134a.

Wasn't the backyard fix to gas charge with LPG when the r12 had leaked out?

 

[MCW]

has to be running some of Matt's secret chain

I was thinking 200t, but with Matt's chain anything is possible :msp_rolleyes:

Damn right guys and don't you bloody forget it.

from a MSDS

Lignite, often referred to as brown coal, is the lowest rank of coal and used almost exclusively as fuel for steam-electric power generation.

It is brownish-black and has a high inherent moisture content, sometimes as high as 45 percent, and very high ash content compared to bituminous coal. The heat content of lignite ranges from 9 to 17 million Btu per short ton (10 to 20 MJ/kg) on a moist, mineral-matter-free basis. The heat content of lignite consumed in the United States averages 13 million Btu/ton (15 MJ/kg), on the as-received basis (i.e., containing both inherent moisture and mineral matter).

Instead of burning it you can give it a Potassium Hydroxide wash to extract the Humic and Fulvic Acid then sell it to gullible organic guys for $50 a litre

Most winters we see -7*C here regularly, so far we've had a really mild one, only seen -4* officially in town at the PO once so far this year.

Crikey. Even we've beaten that here Rick. I thought you said it got cold up your way?

The only a/c's that work here are Daikin, Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Mitsubishi Electric and Panasonic aren't too bad for a cheaper system. (actually the new ones are bloody good)
Up till this year I haven't rated the Koreans at all, (Samsung, LG) absolute #### comes to mind, but the reps reckon the latest ones work well, we'll see......

Insulation is a must, our little old humpy is, err, lacking a little.
Lots is hopefully going in soon.


[edit] Apologies to those that have a Samsung, LG or worse system, I really don't mean to offend, but I just don't rate their air conditioners having worked on them, sorry. (at least not at very low ambients)

Going back many moons in a previous life we had Daikin A/C's quite happily running at 60-65 degrees in a nursing home plant platform when all other brands had shut down from the heat.

 

[460cixy]

Well stick a gauge on and see where you stand I just had a look in the manual and it does not give a spec for the vac pump un less I missed it but talking to vab who do our boosters 20 inches is the magic number but I think if you get around 18 to 20 it should be ok but I have had stuff in with big cams ect flat out pulling 16 inches and they won't stop it's a fine line. But the 300tdi will take a little while to pull a vacume any dramas give me a yell I'm off to the farter

Bet the ds2500 are dear as poison I have only had experience with there run of the mill stuff no idea on how well there performance compounds work

 

[tdi-rick]

Well stick a gauge on and see where you stand I just had a look in the manual and it does not give a spec for the vac pump un less I missed it but talking to vab who do our boosters 20 inches is the magic number but I think if you get around 18 to 20 it should be ok but I have had stuff in with big cams ect flat out pulling 16 inches and they won't stop it's a fine line. But the 300tdi will take a little while to pull a vacume any dramas give me a yell I'm off to the farter

Bet the ds2500 are dear as poison I have only had experience with there run of the mill stuff no idea on how well there performance compounds work

I'm pretty sure JC has mentioned 18" too.

Why is the bloody Wabco pump so crap ?
Surely a company as big as Westinghouse Brake Co can design/build a vacuum pump that works ?

I'm a little sus on mine as a welsch plug fell out a few months ago, even though new.
Lost 1.5 litres of oil before I realised......

Back home fella's, se ya later.

 

[460cixy]

I'm pretty sure JC has mentioned 18" too.

Why is the bloody Wabco pump so crap ?
Surely a company as big as Westinghouse Brake Co can design/build a vacuum pump that works ?

I'm a little sus on mine as a welsch plug fell out a few months ago, even though new.
Lost 1.5 litres of oil before I realised......

Back home fella's, se ya later.

Yup there a pos if I get a chance today ile put a gauge on my half worn out leaking wabco and see what I get I find it odd there's no specs in the manual