Used 50cc Saw - Stihl vs Husky, Pro vs Homeowner

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The crank bearing problem is the plastic race used to separate the ball bearings. When this race goes bad, it is pretty apparent. If you are not handy it is a PITA, but if you have the time and some tools it can be fixed rather easily and cheaply.
What's the fix you mention may I ask?

Personally I think the plastic cage may be a red herring. The cage isn't load bearing, it just holds the needles in position and separate. Big name bearings of this type like SKF use plastic cages. As a matter of fact the bearing on that MS261 that I inspected was perfect, but there was still significant play. I had a spare new bearing and that made no difference.

According to Stihl UK the problem is the clutch drum being out of round. I assume that knocks out the bearings, and in turn that wears the crank. Or it wears the bore of the drum oversize and that causes the crank damage. Or it maybe that the cranks on some were weak in some way and too easily damaged. Reports are mixed. Stihl's answer would explain the rather strange suggestion that switching to spur sprocket fixes it. Stihl gave a part number for a modified drum (1141 007 1002) and reckon that fitting this to a so far undamaged crank would be a solution. But on the other hand they claim only very few saws were affected, which doesn't tie up with end user reports.
 
But for staying at 50cc, get a 026/260 if you can. Take that 290 thought from your mind
Well I was thinking pro grade. However realistically what would I lose going for a 290 instead of a 260 or 261? A bit heavier, maybe less easy to rebuild, is that about it?
 
Are you set on a model from the big 2 ? a used/not abused pro model from Dolmar /Makita I have had good service from a pre Efco, Oleo Mac, or Echo's, whatever brand I would try to make sure it's a pro model a 20" bar is about right for 50CC's
I'd prefer it. I am trying to keep an open mind but if for example a Dolmar turned up I'd have to go searching out information about it, where to get spares etc. Having said that there's an Echo 550 advertised locally. 55cc but on paper at least less powerful and heavier than S or H 50cc models.
 
So I’m a troll if i voice my opinion?


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No, but many facts get skewed. Sawtroll very rarely slipped-up on specs.

I have a cs590. It certainly doesn’t feel lighter than my other 60cc saws (it feels heavier). And is not lighter by lots than my 50cc saws.

The 590 is lightest of the 3 Echos with that engine, I believe.
 
According to Echo's website the CS 590 comes in at a dry weight of 13.2lbs.

According to my Stihl 026 manual, it comes it at 10.4lbs.

I didn't bother looking up the fuel tank and oil tank capacities to see what difference that would make, but if both saws are running same length bars/chains and full on fuel/oil I am not sure the CS 590 could ever weigh less than an 026 (nor feel like it).
 
Correction, I misread the weight comparison post. He was referring to a Stihl 260 Pro, which comes it at 10.58lbs...
 
I wouldn't hesitate getting either the 550xp or the 261 v2 mtronic, both are very capable to drop serious trees with 18 or even 20" bar and build quality much better than 290 or old 026, no comparison. Just try both and see, only thing with the 550xp is the method of restarting that I find rather annoying. The slimmer chain kerf help too vs the larger saws
 
The husky 450 mentioned above might be ideal for a few cords per year. Of course, not as nice as a 550.

There's an interesting video on utube of a someone running a husky 445 and a stihl 290. He appears to own both saws, so I wouldn't think he is biased. Those huskys come with NK chain - not as much load as standard .325 for a longer bar.
 
According to Echo's website the CS 590 comes in at a dry weight of 13.2lbs.

According to my Stihl 026 manual, it comes it at 10.4lbs.

I didn't bother looking up the fuel tank and oil tank capacities to see what difference that would make, but if both saws are running same length bars/chains and full on fuel/oil I am not sure the CS 590 could ever weigh less than an 026 (nor feel like it).
I have a cs590 with a 28 inch bar professional chain. On MY bathroom scales it's 19 pounds fully loaded ready to cut. My CS 490, 14 lbs ready to go same as the Sthil 026. The Sthil 028 with my set up is just a tiny bit (2) lbs lighter than the cs590.
Today I was going to flush cut a 30 inch Stump before I grind it. Accidentally picked up the cs490 instead of the 590 the boxes look alike. Got to location opened saw box, saw that tiny saw and changed the word Oh-Sh to Oh Well and decided ti try the 490 anyway. The 20 inch bar slid right into the wood and disappeared. I swept it almost through, tossed in a wedge and moved to the side started cutting, tossed in another wedge and swept the bar clear. The saw wasn't anything as fast as the 590 nor the Sthil 029 but it never bogged not hesitated. I was blown away. Now I like the cs490 much more than before. It keeps impressing me.
 
My vote goes for a ms260. I have 2 (one with a basegasket delete and 1 ported) and they both pull an 18" bar very very well.

My buddy has an ms290 and I've cut with it a bit. It's a grunty saw but its super super heavy for what it is and its slower in my oppinion then even a stock ms260 with a muffler mod.


Yeah theres newer, faster saws but most of those are way more money then a used 026/ms260.
 
Depending on your health, and from my same thoughts years ago. I chose the MS 270 50cc with a 20"bar and the MS 211 36cc with a 16"bar.
50cc Saws with a 20" bar can handle the job fairly well, but doesn't make one a happy camper (so to speak).
Today, and several years later, I'd suggest nothing smaller than 60cc or larger than 70cc for an occasional old sawyer like me.
Small saws for limbing are great for us older folk, so if I had the MS 180, I'd probably hang on to it.
The 50cc is a can do saw with long bars. My experience says to move on up.
MS 270.jpg
Any light weight saw is an advantage to us older users for limbing.
MS 211 for view.jpg
I like my MS 362 cm with this 25"bar . Not my dream saw however. I'd love to try a 70cc saw.
MS 362 25 in bar.jpg
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-...y0AAOSwi2tblaKu:rk:21:pf:0&LH_ItemCondition=4

Not necessarily that particular one.
There's lots of choices in saws depending on what you want to spend $$$
But if you're looking for a 'used' saw around the 50 cc range you'll be hard pressed to find anything any better for the price. Those old 55 husqvarnas were a well built and durable homeowner size saw. You can find them in good condition reasonably cheap, and parts are still readily available. Note: You're not gonna cut extremely 'fast' with a 20" bar on 'any' 50cc saw. They are best suited with 16 - 18"
 
I will throw in my $.02. Buy a used 346XP, and you will find out first hand why it is a legendary saw. That's my preference, and its why I own one. All the top brands make good stuff. People will argue a couple ounces or a fraction of an HP one way or the other, but it's not that big a difference to most people. Buy based on which one feels the best in your hand. To me it's the 346, although the Echo 490 comes in a close second to me. You mentioned the 034/036, which are the exact same saw with a larger bore on the 036. I would advise against these saws if you are going to use them all day. They are old tech, and have terrible vibration damping & use a lot of fuel. I have owned 2, and have moved on to others for that reason. I personally wouldn't go over 16" on a 50cc saw unless you want to port it. Again, just my opinion, but something to ponder when looking.
 
If used go pro unless it's almost not used at all. Pro saws traditionally can survive a few rebuilds while homeowner stuff sometimes isn't worth it. Really well liked pro saws also have a plethora of parts where homeowner stuff can be hard to find. Stihl or husky.
 

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