What to buy...

[Skier]

Good luck! And be carefull! I come from the exact same situation ( working in IT and moving to the countryside). I did have quite some learning experiences [emoji6] . After the first two years of mucking about, I started watching some youtube course's. That made my life a lot safer. Even a small tree on your helm really hurts.

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Yeah, I can imagine that would hurt. I've watched a couple youtube videos on felling trees and learned some good stuff from them. I've also read a fair amount, and a lot of what I found was that you should pay attention to basic physics and you'll be safer and less likely to damage your saw. To quote Luke Skywalker: "I'll be careful." (hopefully no one follows up with the next line in the movie, LOL). Thanks.

 

[Skier]

Check the online madsens tuning vid it may help or take it to a good saw shop to get the tune in tou

I found this tuning procedure:
http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm

, but not finding the video. Do you have a link?

may want to get some ppe

Anyone want to suggest a good, reasonably priced brand/source?

run good quality oil and ethanol free or canned fuel I've used 40-1 for thirty years red armor now your choice and some extra chains left coast supplys been good to me

Regarding getting a spare chain, seems like a good idea. I'll have to see what it comes with and I'm open to suggestion on spare chains, such as "get the same thing" (exact duplicate spare?) or get something with more bite (the saw is coming with an 18" bar, but says it can run 16-20"). Speaking of which, I find myself wondering if it's worth getting different sized bars/chains... Would I be likely to feel like "boy, I wish I had another 2 inches" (no jokes here guys, LOL), or "man, this 20" bar is just a bit long, I should go switch back to my 18" blade." I felt like (with all my vast experience, LOL) an 18" blade would be a reasonable and fair versatile length, so would there be any reason to get a 20" bar at some point? Would it instead be better to get a 24" bar (saw is 3.9HP), if I had larger softwood trees to fell? I figure I can start with the 18" and the rest of these questions may answer themselves after I actually move and start cutting stuff, but I'm always happy to listen to the advice and experience from experts before I need it, so I can have that knowledge in mind when those questions come up.

and I've never had to take a chainsaw in for service keep it clean air compressor or so and the chain sharp and adjusted you should never have a problem i like these sharpeners they are fast and easy once you get used to them.View attachment 552147

When you mentioned air compressor, are you suggesting that for air filter cleaning (might that damage the filter) or just general saw cleaning to get the gunk out after use?

Thanks for the suggestion on sharpeners, I was wondering about that. Seems like there's quite a few options, and I figured some are probably easier or more effective than others. Thanks again.

 

[Skier]

My friends like the echo tough box it's well made and holds everything.View attachment 552150

When you say "it holds everything," do you mean it holds your echo saw, spare chains, related tools, etc? Or do you mean "it hold just about any saw you want to put in it?" (or both?) Would this fit the saw I bought or should I look for something more specific to a Dolmar PS-5105 so it's not bouncing around inside a generic box?

 

[grack]

It holds a 590 or 490 which is similar sized 50cc saw to the dolmar chains oil etc.

 

[grack]

I found this tuning procedure:
http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm

, but not finding the video. Do you have a link?


Anyone want to suggest a good, reasonably priced brand/source?


Regarding getting a spare chain, seems like a good idea. I'll have to see what it comes with and I'm open to suggestion on spare chains, such as "get the same thing" (exact duplicate spare?) or get something with more bite (the saw is coming with an 18" bar, but says it can run 16-20"). Speaking of which, I find myself wondering if it's worth getting different sized bars/chains... Would I be likely to feel like "boy, I wish I had another 2 inches" (no jokes here guys, LOL), or "man, this 20" bar is just a bit long, I should go switch back to my 18" blade." I felt like (with all my vast experience, LOL) an 18" blade would be a reasonable and fair versatile length, so would there be any reason to get a 20" bar at some point? Would it instead be better to get a 24" bar (saw is 3.9HP), if I had larger softwood trees to fell? I figure I can start with the 18" and the rest of these questions may answer themselves after I actually move and start cutting stuff, but I'm always happy to listen to the advice and experience from experts before I need it, so I can have that knowledge in mind when those questions come up.



When you mentioned air compressor, are you suggesting that for air filter cleaning (might that damage the filter) or just general saw cleaning to get the gunk out after use?

Thanks for the suggestion on sharpeners, I was wondering about that. Seems like there's quite a few options, and I figured some are probably easier or more effective than others. Thanks again.

Just clean the chips and dust from it and the air filter

 

[grack]

I found this tuning procedure:
http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm

, but not finding the video. Do you have a link?


Anyone want to suggest a good, reasonably priced brand/source?


Regarding getting a spare chain, seems like a good idea. I'll have to see what it comes with and I'm open to suggestion on spare chains, such as "get the same thing" (exact duplicate spare?) or get something with more bite (the saw is coming with an 18" bar, but says it can run 16-20"). Speaking of which, I find myself wondering if it's worth getting different sized bars/chains... Would I be likely to feel like "boy, I wish I had another 2 inches" (no jokes here guys, LOL), or "man, this 20" bar is just a bit long, I should go switch back to my 18" blade." I felt like (with all my vast experience, LOL) an 18" blade would be a reasonable and fair versatile length, so would there be any reason to get a 20" bar at some point? Would it instead be better to get a 24" bar (saw is 3.9HP), if I had larger softwood trees to fell? I figure I can start with the 18" and the rest of these questions may answer themselves after I actually move and start cutting stuff, but I'm always happy to listen to the advice and experience from experts before I need it, so I can have that knowledge in mind when those questions come up.



When you mentioned air compressor, are you suggesting that for air filter cleaning (might that damage the filter) or just general saw cleaning to get the gunk out after use?

Thanks for the suggestion on sharpeners, I was wondering about that. Seems like there's quite a few options, and I figured some are probably easier or more effective than others. Thanks again.

The madsens is audio only.
Gloves hardhat goggles is all i mean some ppe is very pricey just shop around you might pick up a couple plastic falling wedges it really helps when cutting up a tree that's down cut half through put a wedge in the top to keep your saw from getting pinched you just have the one saw right hope this helps you some im no pro but I've been cutting for over thirty years.

 

[foeke]

A bar should be the right size for the saw. If it is to long, it will not get enough oil, feels out of balance, make the saw feel slower and bogs down more easily. I would say, 18" is on the limit for a 50cc / 5kg saw. 16" Ideally. Then you can still safely cut a 25" tree. And ofcource only having a 16" (4 chains minimum if you are prone to touch some dirt ones in a while), Is some leverage to buy that 70/80 cc saw that can handle a 24" and up bar nicely.

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[Skier]

The madsens is audio only.
Gloves hardhat goggles is all i mean some ppe is very pricey just shop around you might pick up a couple plastic falling wedges it really helps when cutting up a tree that's down cut half through put a wedge in the top to keep your saw from getting pinched you just have the one saw right hope this helps you some im no pro but I've been cutting for over thirty years.

I have some thick leather gloves, a hardhat from my CERT training, and plenty of goggles/safety glasses, but yeah, I'll have to pick up some wedges; Don't have any of those. Thanks for the help/suggestions.

 

[Skier]

A bar should be the right size for the saw. If it is to long, it will not get enough oil, feels out of balance, make the saw feel slower and bogs down more easily. I would say, 18" is on the limit for a 50cc / 5kg saw. 16" Ideally. Then you can still safely cut a 25" tree. And of cource only having a 16" (4 chains minimum if you are prone to touch some dirt ones in a while), Is some leverage to buy that 70/80 cc saw that can handle a 24" and up bar nicely.

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Well, if an 18" 500cc saw can safely cut a 25" tree, then I think I'll be in pretty good shape to start.

Also, I see how you guys think around here, just looking for excuses for another saw. LOL! It might be cool to get something with a 24" bar and more power to use as a mini-mill, but I think I'm getting ahead of myself. hehe. One saw it good for now. One saw is good for now. One saw is good for now... Just keep telling myself that. hahaha.

 

[foeke]

Exactly! They are nice toys. And for me better then meditation. Some nice sawing planned for the weekend!

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[Skier]

Another side note regarding watching some videos on chainsaw usage to pickup some good tips... I also watched a couple "chainsaw fail compilations," and those have some GREAT tips one what NOT to do. LOL

 

[Skier]

And for me better then meditation.

So, you trade "Oooohhhhmmmmmm" for "Vrrrrroooooommmm" ;-)

 

[foeke]

Well I try to do both. I have to get through the nights and summer somehow.

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[Ryan'smilling]

Congrats on the new saw. Don't skimp on PPE. Get yourself some chaps and a hard hat at the bare minimum. Steel toed boots would be good too. Personally if that was only saw (great choice by the way, I love my little Dolmar) I'd want a 16" and a 20" bar both in .325 pitch. The 16" will be more nimble and handier, the 20" for when you should have a bigger saw but you can make do with what you've got. Since it comes with an 18", however, I think you should just stick with that for now. It's a good compromise size.

When you live on wooded acreage and need a bigger bar, you'll realize the need for a bigger saw anyway. One saw is great, but two is much better. You'll get that thing stuck at some point and having a second saw to free it is very handy. Alternatively just unbolting the bar and mounting a spare will do the trick, but not quite as handy.

Also, learn to sharpen the chain. A dull chain will wreck your saw.

Lastly, learn the ropes of cutting somewhere. Ideally spend time with a friend or AS member who can show you the basics. Also, there's some good safety videos on YouTube. Some from Husqvarna some from the Canadian safety organization. BC faller safety or something like that.


Anyway, congrats again and welcome aboard.

 

[Chris-PA]

I think you'll like the saw, and 18" is a good general purpose bar. My neighbor has a Dolmar 510, which I think is similar but with a bit less power and it seemed nice when I ran it. I'd pick up a 20" B&C later if you want a little larger bar for occasional use, but I would not go longer.

 

[Skier]

Thanks for the comments Ryan and Chris.

In general, is there a rule of thumb about the size of bar compared to the size of tree you can cut? Earlier in the thread, Foeke mentioned that a 16" (or 18"?) would be good for up to a ~24" tree, then given:

24" (tree) = 16" (bar) * 1.5 (constant)

, is something like this somewhat universally true?:

<Max Tree Diameter> = <Bar Length> * 1.5

i.e. a 20" bar could do a 30" tree, a 24" bar could to a 36" tree, etc?

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Thanks for the comments Ryan and Chris.

In general, is there a rule of thumb about the size of bar compared to the size of tree you can cut? Earlier in the thread, Foeke mentioned that a 16" (or 18"?) would be good for up to a ~24" tree, then given:

24" (tree) = 16" (bar) * 1.5 (constant)

, is something like this somewhat universally true?:

<Max Tree Diameter> = <Bar Length> * 1.5

i.e. a 20" bar could do a 30" tree, a 24" bar could to a 36" tree, etc?

Rules of thumb are tough when cutting wood is involved. Every tree is different. If you're motivated and know how to do it you could fell a 48" tree with a 20" bar. It wouldn't be the best choice, but it'd possible. After it's on the ground, bucking logs into rounds you want a bar at least 60% of the diameter of the log. You can make it work with 50%, but you've got to line everything up right. For now, I'd recommend learning the ropes from some good sources and stick to wood not much over the length of that 18" bar.

 

[Skier]

All makes sense. Thanks for the tips.

 

[jd548esco72]

your best bets would be either that dolmar 50cc clone or the echo cs-590 in a new saw-- the 590 is a detuned 600 more or less i run a 24" and have cut some really rough hardwoods with mine. a muffler mod and a re-tune of the carb egged quite aq bit more power out --

dolmar makes a fine saw as well a 50cc should be enough -- with a short bar -- good chains make or brake one-- homeowner saws usually come with crap chains--

you don't sound like your planning on logging??

the husky 353 is also a good saw -- but the compression sounds a little low-- and for the money the two new saws are the way to go --

the homeowner saws -- i hate those--waste of good plastic--lol

 

[Skier]

Nope, no plans to quit my day job and become a logger, though it's probably in my blood. I was born and raised in Oregon that had/has a major timber industry. I had relatives that were loggers; My Grandpa worked in a saw mill in the early 1900s, as evidenced by missing parts of fingers/thumbs on five of his 10 digits. D'Oh! Apparently, saws can be dangerous, and I'm thinking they probably weren't quite as particular about PPE back in those days. ;-)