Which 60cc do you like??

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Mike, I don't see how any saw can have simpler controls than the new Huskys. The 562 is 'On' or 'Choke'... Purge bulb just makes it easier to start...

Don, did they change it? When the guy showed me the 562 he said there was both full choke and 1/2 choke. I know MechanicMatt's Husky's do not have any starting issues, but the control on the 362 just seemed to be simpler to me.

I trust you are enjoying yours. I've been encountering some big stuff this year, so my 044 with a 24" bar has been seeing more use than the 362, but I prefer the 362 on anything under 15". The 362 is a little lighter, cuts very well, and is easier to start (the 044 does not have compression relief, which is a pain when it gets hot on hot days, the cord pulls through your hand).

MountainHigh likes his 562 so much he is going to let go of his 2 346s, and I know they are coveted saws.
 
Even though I'm a Ford guy, I like that analogy. It's kind of like saying "Why run a 352, when a 428 weighs about the same?". There are reasons, of course, why we all don't have 428s....

But everyone would rather have a 427 Ford motor, but you are right, they all have blocks stamped "352", but with different bore & stroke.

I don't remember the thread with the 13 lb 362, but I did see it, and 13.2 with dual dogs and chain catcher is right in line with that, so why am I going to remover the outside dog, bar, chain and fluids for? I'm not.
 
Don, did they change it? When the guy showed me the 562 he said there was both full choke and 1/2 choke. I know MechanicMatt's Husky's do not have any starting issues, but the control on the 362 just seemed to be simpler to me.

I trust you are enjoying yours. I've been encountering some big stuff this year, so my 044 with a 24" bar has been seeing more use than the 362, but I prefer the 362 on anything under 15". The 362 is a little lighter, cuts very well, and is easier to start (the 044 does not have compression relief, which is a pain when it gets hot on hot days, the cord pulls through your hand).

MountainHigh likes his 562 so much he is going to let go of his 2 346s, and I know they are coveted saws.
Hi Mike... No, they didn't change it. There is choke and run, one leaver, no half choke. But one can set the high idle if wanted.

Yes, the 562 has treated me very well. Not sure what's up with that dude? I sure would NOT let any of my three 346s' go! :)
 
But everyone would rather have a 427 Ford motor, but you are right, they all have blocks stamped "352", but with different bore & stroke.

I don't remember the thread with the 13 lb 362, but I did see it, and 13.2 with dual dogs and chain catcher is right in line with that, so why am I going to remover the outside dog, bar, chain and fluids for? I'm not.

Mike, if we're going for Fords, make mine a 1.8 BDA or 3.0 DFV please. As much light-alloy as possible.
 
But everyone would rather have a 427 Ford motor, but you are right, they all have blocks stamped "352", but with different bore & stroke.
My first Stang got a built 289, 4 speed, 4:11 gear. It was quick. Second Stang got a built 351C, C6, 3:73 gear. It was quicker. Never had a big block. 300 six was my favorite truck motor.

I am liking some of the new stuff! Lot's of HP and drivability on pump gas...
 
Good info on the consensus one saw plan size - 60 cc. I've personally seen stihl 361's beat to death for a year at an old job...more brushing and such clearing power line right-of-ways than cutting down sizable trees most days. I thought they held up great. But anyway, I keep thinking what 60cc is gonna last? In other words what is the best performance to durability ratio 60 cc saw?Now I'm not logging or in the tree business so for a firewood hack like me any pro 60cc model should last quite a bit doing 12-15 hardwood cords a year and the occasional yard takedown. Its just one of the main things I think of if putting down 700+ on a chainsaw.
 
Don, my 1st Stang was a 289. Had 3:1 gears and a 4 speed, but thrush mufflers and a 600 Holley made it run good. Had a 351 C in a 70 with 3:50 gears and a 4 speed (from a small block, not a close ratio, so 1st was low). Engine had great high end power, but those 4 barrel heads were really too big for the street (it would easily go through 7,000, but not much low end, I built it to be like a 351 Boss). With the 427 you had power the moment you gave it the gas (extreme power from 1,000 to 6,800 RPM). It was a 66 Holman & Moody Block, crank cut 10 & 20, but it had low riser pistons so I put 428 CJ heads on it (which have medium riser ports and low riser valves and combustion chambers). If I told you how little I paid for everything, you would cry. Got the 427 short block for $300 and a pristine 70 Boss 302 body (motor had a spun bearing) for $800. I had to choose between that and a 56 T-Bird with porthole roof for $900. Went with the Mustang because the T-Bird had an auto. And the 69 Boss 9 I passed on for $2,500, had a blown head gasket and no one made them at the time. If only I had money and a large garage or barn! And I also had a 68 428 CJ, with the 4:30 drag pack, engine oil cooler, staggered rear shocks, paid $1,200 and sold it for $2,500. Could have had another one for $1,000, but I did not want it, it was not a fastback!
 
Don, my 1st Stang was a 289. Had 3:1 gears and a 4 speed, but thrush mufflers and a 600 Holley made it run good. Had a 351 C in a 70 with 3:50 gears and a 4 speed (from a small block, not a close ratio, so 1st was low). Engine had great high end power, but those 4 barrel heads were really too big for the street (it would easily go through 7,000, but not much low end, I built it to be like a 351 Boss). With the 427 you had power the moment you gave it the gas (extreme power from 1,000 to 6,800 RPM). It was a 66 Holman & Moody Block, crank cut 10 & 20, but it had low riser pistons so I put 428 CJ heads on it (which have medium riser ports and low riser valves and combustion chambers). If I told you how little I paid for everything, you would cry. Got the 427 short block for $300 and a pristine 70 Boss 302 body (motor had a spun bearing) for $800. I had to choose between that and a 56 T-Bird with porthole roof for $900. Went with the Mustang because the T-Bird had an auto. And the 69 Boss 9 I passed on for $2,500, had a blown head gasket and no one made them at the time. If only I had money and a large garage or barn! And I also had a 68 428 CJ, with the 4:30 drag pack, engine oil cooler, staggered rear shocks, paid $1,200 and sold it for $2,500. Could have had another one for $1,000, but I did not want it, it was not a fastback!
Cool Stuff Mike! If only I had the money and a large garage back in the late 70s' early 80s'...
 
Same analogy here. A Pontiac 326 or 350 is the exact same size/weight as the 455, why use one?



As it would compare to chainsaws, my 181SE is close in size weight to the 480CD, which doesn't have nearly the power or chain speed as the 181. Pretty boring to run the 480CD these days, unless you just like to hear the old technology grunting along getting the same amount of work done in twice the time.......Cliff
 
The 5 liter with my blower makes over 700 ponies, and the newer one will be even better.

To each his own. One of the most enjoyable cars I drove, and raced (SCCA) back in the day was a 948 cc Sprite, good for 75+ hp at the wheels. One problem was sometimes having to share the track with the big irons in practices at Lime Rock. They'd go roaring down the straight and we'd be on their tail going into the "big bend" then held up going all around the rest of the course. I'd brake waaay later than the big-irons going into the bend, then be flat in third or fourth for the rest, except to avoid hitting them in the rear.

IOW, power output can be an academic pursuit if it's not usable, as enabled by handling and braking. Thus my appreciation for Brian Hart 1.8 L BDA. Pent-roof 4-valve, docile as a lamb, 180 hp around 7500. Installed in some serious twisty-road cars.
 
Mike, I don't see how any saw can have simpler controls than the new Huskys. The 562 is 'On' or 'Choke'... Purge bulb just makes it easier to start...

My 562 and 550 are always in the run position,pull it out and all the way up thats choke,click it down for fast idle and push it all the way down and it shuts off but automatically returns to run. Its easier than Stihl's IMO and even they are easy.


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Then the dealer, who only recently added Stihl (formerly just Husky), explained it to me wrong. My apologies if I put out any incorrect information, I would never intentionally do that.

046 is a nice size, as is 044, and i like running square file.
 
To each his own. One of the most enjoyable cars I drove, and raced (SCCA) back in the day was a 948 cc Sprite, good for 75+ hp at the wheels. One problem was sometimes having to share the track with the big irons in practices at Lime Rock. They'd go roaring down the straight and we'd be on their tail going into the "big bend" then held up going all around the rest of the course. I'd brake waaay later than the big-irons going into the bend, then be flat in third or fourth for the rest, except to avoid hitting them in the rear.

IOW, power output can be an academic pursuit if it's not usable, as enabled by handling and braking. Thus my appreciation for Brian Hart 1.8 L BDA. Pent-roof 4-valve, docile as a lamb, 180 hp around 7500. Installed in some serious twisty-road cars.

On the track, light weight is critical, on the street, I'll take the HP. And back in the day, the 427 Ford may have been the most successful race engine in history. I believe it won NASCAR in 69 (when cars were still based on what you could buy), was in the Mickey Thompson Funny Car that broke the 200 MPH barrier, and was in the three Ford GT 40s that finished 1,2 and 3 in the 1966 24 hours of Lemons (an unprecedented accomplishment).

I don't think there is another engine you could name that did that well in so many different venues.

How are your saws doing?
 
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