DIY Stihl CaseSplitter

I built these splitters from pipe fittings and a scrap chunk of steel.

One is a Pipe flange reduced to 1/4 NPT then tapped to 1/2-13 used my new case gasket to drill the holes and done.

Other I welded a nipple to the steel then a 1/2npt to 1/4 npt reducer and again tapped it to 1/2-13

Paint it Chevy orange (as close to Stihl Orange I had) and done.

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Well done, Grasshoppa!! Definitely rep-worthy!!!

here ya go rep sent

Good on ya...now to market them is the next step!:msp_thumbsup:

No marketing here would rather everyone be able to build them rather than pay the $200 plus dollars Stihl wants. Reproduce on everyone. I think I had $4 invested in the flange one and maybe $2 in the bar side one.

Now I need to figure out how to put the crank back into the bearings need to build something to pull it back in. Crank is in the Freezer been for a week waiting for me to figure the next tool out. I think it is a Fine thread 8mm thread on the crank figured I could tap a piece of round stock then thread it on put the spliter on without the bolt in for pressing then thread a bolt in with a nut and washer on after that start threading the nut down pulling the crank into place.

What do you guys think? Anyone got a better idea?

This is being done on my 036 Pro I picked up that was like new other than the guy I think ran straight gas though it by accident because other than that the paint was hardly scratched for a saw of that caliber should be.

Very good job on the splitter.

I use heat to reassemble.......easy peasy.

Heat gun good enough to get them back together?

I was an idiot and put the seals in already not thinking so I don't want to get them too hot. Could maybe set the electric eater up facing the inside and plug the hole with something to keep the heat away from the seal I guess may work.

I will give that a try Friday when I actually have time to work on it again.

Kind of excited to see how she runs going to open the muffler up a little on it too. figured a little extra never hurt. Give her a good carb tunning and it should rip through like a raped ape.

Put it in the oven at 250°F for about 15 minutes.

HAHA

Now that is my kind of cooking. I will need to make sure the girlfriend isn't home or she will freak I am cooking parts. But she did say I couldn't cook so I am just practicing I suppose.

Thanks because that sounds much simpler to heat it up.

Does the shaft drop into place or do you need to tap it a little?

Sometimes they drop in and sometimes they need a little persuasion. BTW, the house will smell "oily" when you heat the cases. I just want you to be prepared. And it won't matter how clean you have them, the oil permeates the case metal and just sits and waits for some sucker to drop them in the oven, hoping to slip it past the wife!!! I vividly remember the first time I heated cases and the wife came home. She was not happy with me. She is a bit of an odor freak and has a nose like a bloodhound. Now she just ignores it when she smells the smell coming from her oven.

Sweet guys!!

I will let you all know how it goes this weekend if I get it to go together.

really appreciate all the help!!

Oh BTW not married to her yet so may as well break her in early. :msp_scared:

A cheap toaster oven out in the shop works great and keeps ya out of trouble, too!

Here's a good 036 thread that covers quite a bit of territory by some great contributors.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/190161.htm

Good luck with yours and keep us posted.



Poge

Dang wish I would have found that when I started my rebuild.

Thanks!!

i have pretty good luck tapping the bearings in the case with no heat with a socket the same size as the outer race and a small hammer tapping them in ,just need make sure going in real strait

I have them in the case already but I need to get the crank in now and don't want to mess up the crank. I modified a cheap pilot bushing puller and snapped the arm so need a better idea. other than that it was working great!! oh well back to the drawing board but I hope the heated case idea works.

tb55chevy said:

I have them in the case already but I need to get the crank in now and don't want to mess up the crank. I modified a cheap pilot bushing puller and snapped the arm so need a better idea. other than that it was working great!! oh well back to the drawing board but I hope the heated case idea works.

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You're not likely to mess up the crank. And you don't want to heat that case too much again for one main reason: The bearings will come loose in their seats before they expand enough for the crank to just "slip in".

Your best bet at this point is to just use a couple of longer case bolts to begin drawing the case together, then just put the original ones in all the way around and button it up. Done. (Don't forget the gasket!)

One thing to look out for is how far the clutch side bearing is seated in the case bore since the oil pump housing itself is the actual "seat" for the bearing. If the bearing is too far into the bore and extends past where the pump housing wants to sit, you'll likely break or crack the pump housing tightening it down -- unless you had the pump housing in place already when you installed the bearing, which is the recommended method.

Poge

Nice! I like it, simple and effective.

can you get a couple of the case bolts to thread in ?i usually get started with a plastic dead blow tap the case lightly then if starts getting tighter a couple of case bolts should pull it together, if its too tight for a t-handle tool to pull it in ,then resort to heat

So put the Clutch side together first with an old clutch wing (from post linked above) or what ever you call it and then try to pull the other half with the case bolts that may work could try that. Have always been afraid of the soft metal and too much torque on them.

Uhh ohhh just had a brainstorm on building a crank setting tool with more pipe fittings and the flywheel nut!! I will need to try this now after running the the local hardware store (Menards) this could be a cool DIY tool project too.

OK Hear me out I am thinking another couple fittings one to fit around the shaft but alow the flywheel nut to be threaded on then a nipple then another cap tapped out then with any luck using my splitter flanged tool I can redo the fittings so I can use it to press against as I pull in the crank!! I am thinking another $4 - $6 in parts.

Dang now I wish I was home and didn't have to work my second job tonight so I could build it!! ahhhhhhh

Think I am going to build it just to say I did, with it and the heat trick, it should go together like Peanut butter and jelly!

Sorry everyone I have gotten side tracked I took on a second job to help out the family business. I hope to get back to this project finally in the next week. :bang: