Stihl 066 Question

I have an older 066 that the coil went bad on. The dealer says that he can no longer get this particular coil PN# 1122 1311. I was wondering if any of you stihl gurus out there know if any of these coils are still available on the market. Or as I have read on this forum elsewhere, if you might be able to swap out flywheel and coil from a different set of parts that would still work on this saw. I would really like to keep this old saw running any help would be much appreciated.

according to the ipl, you should either be looking for 1122 400 1314 or 1122 400 1307. I dont know the difference, I think its a break in serial number somewhere. I inguired on a coil for my old 066, and my dealer gave me prices on both.

Nope, can't get any parts, box it and send me youre junk!!!


I am sure Lake or Thall will have an answer for you.
Andy

Your dealer could not offer a replacement part #? 066, even the older ones is still a current design with a bunch of parts still available, it might be time to check with another dealer.

I can see why a dealer might get confused as there is a big matrix of coils that require matching to flywheels, but if he placed a call to Stihl technical support he would have got an answer... even if it was, "change the coil AND flywheel"

The 1122 400 1311 coil was originally matched to the 1222 400 1214 flywheel. This was the last of the aluminum flywheels and the next series of coil/flywheels are different.

I'm ALMOST 100% sure a standard 0000 400 1300 (very common in many stihl models) works as this was fitted to Canadian models in 1993 with the 1214 flywheel.

I don't have all the 066 tech notes at home with me so I'll check to tomorrow at work and I will call my Stihl contact tomorrow just to make sure... The problem with the 066 is that many coils will "work", but the timing will be off.

Andy, where is your shop located and what are you called?

Stihl4life said:

Andy, where is your shop located and what are you called?

Click to expand...

My name is Andy and...

... and we aren't allowed to publish the names of stores on AS!

So, those coil numbers I have in my ipl are wrong? It makes sense timing wise that the coils are matched to the flywheels, but are the flywheels matched to the saw? Or can you change them whenever you want, say Aluminum to plastic, or vice-versa?

There's even more to it than this Tech Bulletin, but this answers a lot of questions.

Tom

Thanks for allof the info, You guys rock:rockn: ! Most of the dealers around here won't take the time to help you try and figure out tech difficulties let a lone try and call to get some help for you. Then they will try to get you to buy a new stihl form them, all because they won't take the time to help you fix the one you already have. I think they need to wake up and smell the sawdust, LOL and thanks a million.

Lakeside53 said:

My name is Andy and...

... and we aren't allowed to publish the names of stores on AS!

Click to expand...

Of course you could use your internet detective skills and you could go to the Stihl website and do a dealer search on Andy's location and you might figure out where he works....... (19265 Highway 9, Woodinville, WA?)

Finnbear said:

Of course you could use your internet detective skills and you could go to the Stihl website and do a dealer search on Andy's location and you might figure out where he works....... (19265 Highway 9, Woodinville, WA?)

Click to expand...

Close, but at least 5 miles way!


Woodinville is where I live, not work!

CaseyForrest said:

So, those coil numbers I have in my ipl are wrong? It makes sense timing wise that the coils are matched to the flywheels, but are the flywheels matched to the saw? Or can you change them whenever you want, say Aluminum to plastic, or vice-versa?

Click to expand...

No, they aren't wrong, but as in the tech note that Tom showed you, it's a matter of matching and back matching coils and flywheels. I fixed an 064 for an AS member that the dealer was unable to figure out the right coil flywheel combo.. Damn thing ran but ripped your arm off each time it started!

To answer your question, you "can" put the latest SET of flywheel/coil onto the older saw, But you would need to change the crankshaft as the stub is different from the plastic to the aluminum wheels..

Lakeside53 said:

I can see why a dealer might get confused as there is a big matrix of coils that require matching to flywheels, but if he placed a call to Stihl technical support he would have got an answer... even if it was, "change the coil AND flywheel"

The 1122 400 1311 coil was originally matched to the 1222 400 1214 flywheel. This was the last of the aluminum flywheels and the next series of coil/flywheels are different.

I'm ALMOST 100% sure a standard 0000 400 1300 (very common in many stihl models) works as this was fitted to Canadian models in 1993 with the 1214 flywheel.

I don't have all the 066 tech notes at home with me so I'll check to tomorrow at work and I will call my Stihl contact tomorrow just to make sure... The problem with the 066 is that many coils will "work", but the timing will be off.

Click to expand...

Here's the correct and final answer... The -1311 coil is superseded by the -1314 coil, and it is available. This is the coil that is shown with the Polywheel, and the tech data doesn't say it works with the aluminum wheel, but it does and correctly.

You can use the 0000 400 1300 coil (very common and available cheap on the used market) BUT you must have the flywheel with the two key-way slots in it, and use the "other" slot (left most looking at the flywheel with the slots to the top). If it's in the wrong slot the ignition will be too far advanced and it will kick like a mule...

Bought a brand new 1300, installed it, fired it right up. It did kick the first couple of timnes that I firedit up, but I have had it running a dozen or more time from cold start and warmed up and it hasn't done it any more. Seems to be fine with this flywheel. I will check to see if it has more than one keyway. Thanks again for everyones help. You guys are great!

lumberjackchef said:

Bought a brand new 1300, installed it, fired it right up. It did kick the first couple of timnes that I firedit up, but I have had it running a dozen or more time from cold start and warmed up and it hasn't done it any more. Seems to be fine with this flywheel. I will check to see if it has more than one keyway. Thanks again for everyones help. You guys are great!

Click to expand...

Do make sure the flywheel is in the correct slot as running too far advanced can cause engine damage, as well as tweaking your wrist!.

NOTE: edited to get it right again! thanks Shoerfast (next post)

With the flywheel keyways near the top of the flywheel...

Moving the flywheel to the left most slot will retard the ignition, and the right slot will advance the ignition. left, right, up, down; it's so confusing! I'm going to have to dig up the orginal tech note on this model and check...

Lakeside53 said:

Do make sure the flywheel is in the correct slot as running too far advanced can cause engine damage, as well as tweaking your wrist!.

I think I may have got it all backwards anyhow. Moving the flywheel to the Right most slot will retard the ignition, and the left slot will advance the ignition. left, right, up, down; it's so confusing! I'm going to have to dig up the orginal tech note on this model and check...

Click to expand...

Me thinks, that as you look at the lazy side, the engine turns c-clockwise,,,,, and the key-way on the right would move the magnets more advanced,,,,, more advanced timming,,,,,,, but I'm easely baffled

ShoerFast said:

Me thinks, that as you look at the lazy side, the engine turns c-clockwise,,,,, and the key-way on the right would move the magnets more advanced,,,,, more advanced timming,,,,,,, but I'm easely baffled

Click to expand...

Arghhh.. I did it again. you are of course right so I'll re-edit my orginal post to get it back to where I had it. Damn home brew.

Guess I need to describe it better. Right and left keyways don't mean crap unless we know which way UP the flywheel is!

With the keyways near the TOP of the flywheel (the coil is to the right), rotating the flywheel LEFT to use the right most slot will advance the ignition. Rotating to the right to use the left most slot will retard the ignition. That's why I need that tech note with the pretty picture!

Tell me I won a Home-Brew!

Lakeside53 said:

My name is Andy and...

... and we aren't allowed to publish the names of stores on AS!

Click to expand...

Andy,
Tried sending the below as a PM, but your mailbox is full. So, hope you get this...
Just joined recently, but it didn't take long to find you. Those who stand head-and-shoulders above the crowd are the easiest to spot! So, please stick with us, even though you're nearing 25,000!
Okay, I'm in the throes of rebuilding a bunch of old Stihls for a lumberman friend. Crews tend to really anvil-bash equipment, so it seems. The saws I'm working on are in pretty bad shape, but some of 'em ain't dead. One is an old 066 (alum flywheel). Also have five MS460s in various stages of disrepair.
The 066 was running (kinda) when I got it, but it had a bunch of issues, not the least being a busted intake boot. Got the parts I need to put it back together, including a carb kit. It's cleaned up and ready to reassemble.
Question for you on this saw: My manual says: "Slide the setting gauge between the arms of the ignition module and the flywheel magnets." Problem of course is: I don't have the gauge! Do you know the thickness of this gauge, and can't I just set the air gap using my SAE feeler gauges?
Oh, hey, I've got a really neat Web site. Get a minute, check it out. I'm a long-distance hiker. Trekked your beautiful Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail this past summer. It goes from Glacier, in Montana, across Idaho, then through upper Washington, to end at the ocean on the Olympic Peninsula. So, probably came close to your place. Rugged, rugged mountains--just spectacular country!
Thanks, and...
God Bless, Eb
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