Shaver Improvement Forum.... one year later

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Has anyone tried the foam type stuff they use to pack products with to insulate the bottom of the boiler ? Seems its the same material as foam coffee cups only in a wiggled 1 inch or so length. Does a good job for coffee at only 1/4 ich thickness so 3 inches should be great. A shop vac turned to blow instead of vacuum should blow it to the front of the unit if you're in the back where the controls are.

Sounds easy and extremely cheap. Another plus is that it should be unaffected if it happens to get wet. Anyone know if they sell it for packing purposes ?
 
Here's why I haven't been able to insulate my boiler yet, I hope to have to roof on and sides started next weekend (32'x14')...

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got the Shaver stripped Sunday. Here's what I did:

- Coated entire frame in POR-15 - steam issues had it starting to rust
- Reinsulated underneath (1 layer of 1/2" Tuf-R sheathing adn taped the seams with sheathing tape, then a layer of R19 on top of that
- Reinsulated entire roof - discarded all the old stuff - still damp from steaming last year! I left ~ 2-3" clearance to the insulation all the way around the 3rd layer of pipe.
- Siliconed top plate although it didn't look too bad, but since you're there why not...
- Installed 6" DW chimney pipe adn added a 7" piece under the roof only - so I have a homemade triple wall....kinda :)
- Insulated all the nooks and crannies and taped them up with sheathing tape.
- On the sides there's about 9" or so in the rear that's not insualted (the part that is beside the pumps, valves, etc.) I insulated that too...on the outside.
- Sealed up the DHW coil cover - wow that was almost a tube in itself.
- Drilled hole adn installed Drywell with Rayco controller as mentioned on this thread. (Tip: held a large cup underneath where I was drilling hole to prevent shavings from falling down inside water jacket - obviously I did this before I sealed up the DHW coil plate.

Left to do:
- Insulate rear door
- Wire Rayco Controller up
- Find and install chimney cap

I took pics and will post if I can resize and figure out how to embed them.
I also need input on chimney caps - I'll start another thread on that one!

Couldn't have done it w/o all of ya'lls help. Thank you all very much!!!

Josh
 
blower mod

I finished my blower mod the other night FINALLY! I might start burning this coming weekend, propane has been running a week now :(
 
Got all the mods. done, now going to be laid up awhile, just got home from shoudler surgery this morning.:( Going to be in 30's next week, have to leave the fireing up and loading to wife and son for awhile, was really looking forward to keeping track of all the mods., guess I can still do that with a 12oz beverage in my free hand:cheers:
 
Finally got to pouring my concrete pad today.I had to unhook the owb and lift it off my temp pad.When i did i found the woodchucks had went under it and pulled down all my r19 i added last winter.They wont get under it when im done....The 250 is a heavy beast.My cat SS is very strong,and the 250 gives it a workout.I think a 290 would be about the limit of what it could handle without lifting from the side where i can get the bulk of the weight closer to the machine...
 
I finished this morning,I just made the weather window,my yard is getting soft,another week,and im not sure id even gotten the yard cart in there or the skid steer being able to lift the OWB without sinking.I brooomed and edged it,will pullthe forms tomorrow and start outting up a course of 8" block,and a cap block to raise it up a bit.Resetting it is going to be an issue without the shipping crate under it,ive got a few ideas,I really need a SS boom,which i dont have,but may be able to borrow one...then i can set it from the chimney.I have to get it quite high in the air to clear the lines,which is no problem on the pallet forks,but with a chain in the chimney im not sure i can get it that high without a SS boom.....
 
well I fired up it up yesterday. Seems to be doin real well. Only got down to 43°F or so last night, but there was tons of wood left this morning...bout 9 hrs later.

Ranco is doing well, I'll confess, I couldn't figure it out with how we had the stove wired - called the buddy who wired my stove - bout 20 minutes, she was done.

Almost r100 in the roof - holds heat real well!
 
Well John, there's little doubt you have the most time in your unit of any posts that I've seen. I hope it performs up to your expectations. In contrast, all I did was a little more insulation in the roof, a little in the door, and blew some foam chips that was used in packing boxes under the stove, same stuff as in a a styrofoam coffe cup, and a couple sheets of the solarguard I used to insulate the pex pipes in the rear of the stove. I am working on a different setup than mentioned here for the draft blower.

:clap:
 
burning wood

Just installed my 250 a couple of months ago. Been heating my domestic water with it since then. Just got cold enough this weekend to use the heater in the house. Beyond my expectations!! Wife has it 75 in the house and loving it.
 
Just installed my 250 a couple of months ago. Been heating my domestic water with it since then. Just got cold enough this weekend to use the heater in the house. Beyond my expectations!! Wife has it 75 in the house and loving it.

It feels good being able to turn up the thermostat instead of worrying about paying the oil or propane man any extra.

Last year was our first year with the Shaver. Before that, we kept the thermostat 66-68.

Now its 73-75.

I've come home last year and my daughter would have it about 78. Luckily she'll even go out and throw some wood in it too.
 
Post Improvement Update:

Updated my 165 as many have done here and so far I notice the following:

1. Ranco controller operating beautifully (5°F differential, set at 140°F) - minimal overshoot 1-2°F maximum
2. 24 hr burn times easy where as before I would have to top it off each evening AND morning - even at 40°F....now it's 1x/ day AT MOST. Obviously due to additional insulation underneath, in roof and rear door.

I'll keep track of it and when the chimney cap comes in I'll see if there's any difference after that too.

Can't say enough about all the help/ advice I've received here regarding improving this stove. I'd say ~ $150-$200 total in improvements and 2 days of work and it'll be well worth it...especially in the long run.

Thanks for all your help!!!!
 
If your getting acceptable heat and HW with 140 degree water,that is great! That will save you a ton of wood in itself.
 
If your getting acceptable heat and HW with 140 degree water,that is great! That will save you a ton of wood in itself.

yeah the HW is the only part I "worry" about.

Instead of the CW line running into the WH I put a shut off valve before the WH to run the CW out to the boiler. Then when it comes back from the DHW coil in the boiler and runs into the WH where the CW used to run in. Basically it just preheats the water for the WH. My WH is set to 125°F.

I don't want to throw the WH breaker cause if water sits in the WH for an extended period of time and I want HW I'd have to run all the cold out of the WH and the line to the boiler before I get HW (50-60 gal).

Is it worth it to wire up another pump and temp sensor on the WH itself? Is there another way that's a compromise b/t the 2?

Any thoughts here are appreciated.
Thanks,
Josh
 
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