Filing after sharpening with the chain grinder

[Mike Kunte]

I have been looking for info on using and buying a ceramic rod or stone for saw sharpening. If you have any information, please drop into this thread and share.

thanks!

Hi,

I recently purchased one of these Trend diamond pen files: https://www.amazon.com/Trend-DWS-PFR-8-Inch-Diamond/dp/B001UQ5PEO

Its diameter is ever so slightly larger (about 17 thou) than the 13/64ths file I use on my Stihl chains. This means that only the very extremes of the edge of the cutters are touched, which is ok since that is all that matters! This also prevents wasting time spent on polishing up the rest of the cutting edge, which is not necessary. The taper in the front guides the file in just fine, and then the larger diameter does the polishing of the extreme edge. Being 600 grit, it gives a razor fine finish on the tooth. I will be testing this weekend (if I get the chance) and will post some feedback.

Mike

 

[FlyingDutchman]

View attachment 746474

Hi,

I recently purchased one of these Trend diamond pen files: https://www.amazon.com/Trend-DWS-PFR-8-Inch-Diamond/dp/B001UQ5PEO

Its diameter is ever so slightly larger (about 17 thou) than the 13/64ths file I use on my Stihl chains. This means that only the very extremes of the edge of the cutters are touched, which is ok since that is all that matters! This also prevents wasting time spent on polishing up the rest of the cutting edge, which is not necessary. The taper in the front guides the file in just fine, and then the larger diameter does the polishing of the extreme edge. Being 600 grit, it gives a razor fine finish on the tooth. I will be testing this weekend (if I get the chance) and will post some feedback.

Mike

Looking forward to what you find out.

 

[Huskitoter]

Interesting. Is that for filing your chain when you have some down time at the office?

 

[Mike Kunte]

Huskitoter!

Who's been talking?

 

[Huskybill]

Don’t buy those cheap files from huztl. They suck.

 

[Mike Kunte]

Ok, feedback time!

I will sort-of double post here, since the feedback regarding the diamond file came from this topic, but the depth gauge feedback from another topic....

Anyway, having filed the half-used 3/8 Stihl full chisel chain (which cut very well to begin with), I finished each tooth off with a couple of swipes from the Trend Diamond File in 600#. The teeth were "sticky" sharp. I then used Hannes69's progressive depth gauge to drop the depth gauges to their new level (in order to maintain that constant cutting angle of around 6 degrees). This chain ate wood like a pitbull in a Barbie Doll store!

I literally could hardly "feel" the cutting taking place. The best way to describe the sensation would be that the chain "melted" its way through the wood. Admittedly, I only took down a small bluegum (around 8 inches ion diamteer, and about 20' tall), so the wood was really soft (as opposed to the more mineralized fibres in m,ore mature trees), but the chips were flying! My BIL commented that he had never seen such nice big chips flying like that. And to top it all off, the chain was very well behaved - not "grabby" or rough at all! I did not try a bore cut (this normally exposes a too-low depth gauge setting better than normal cross-cutting), since the tree diameter was too small, but I am convinced it will be really well-behaved!

I was initially rather cautious about the large depth gauge setting (this chain is past its halfway mark), but my fears proved unfounded - it really cut without issues!

Thanks to all who helped get me here!

Mike

 

[Philbert]

The problem with 'super sharp' edges is how long they last. Razor blades have super sharp edges, but if you slam them into tree bark 20 times per second, they don't hold up as well as my relatively 'duller' axe.

Philbert

 

[Mike Kunte]

The problem with 'super sharp' edges is how long they last. Razor blades have super sharp edges, but if you slam them into tree bark 20 times per second, they don't hold up as well as my relatively 'duller' axe.

Philbert

I think it's more akin to the "stropping" of sharpened tools. A stropped edge is free from small imperfections and burrs, which can lead to a premature breakdown of the cutting edge. That's the whole philosophy behing stropping anyway - it makes the edge last longer. This is also what I experienced - after cutting, the egdes were still beautifully sharp. But this probably won't be my go-to method, especially in the field. The file gets the cutter sharp enough.

My greatest joy was finally getting to test the results of the progressive filing gauge - and it was a huge success!

 

[Huskitoter]

How did you sneak the saw into the office? Duffel bag?

Kidding of course. Good info on kind of a novel tool. Is it designed for chains or something else?

 

[Mike Kunte]

How did you sneak the saw into the office? Duffel bag?

Kidding of course. Good info on kind of a novel tool. Is it designed for chains or something else?

Trend says it can be used for almost any cutting tool....

Description
Product description
Highlights: Grade: Fine 600 grit (25 micron) multi-versatile file Serrated blades, cardbide and HSS Overall length: 5-5/8" w/ 3-5/8" x 15/64" diamond Ideal for woodworking, gardening, shaped tooling, etc. Profiles, turning and carving tools , and all knives (hunting/outdoor and domestic) Also suitable for pruners, secateurs, scissors, hoof knives and serrated blades

 

[Philbert]

Looks like it could be good for serrated knives.

Philbert

 

[Mike Kunte]

Yes indeed! The Spyderco knives come to mind!

Good observation!

Looks like it could be good for serrated knives.

Philbert

 

[Huskybill]

If your not putting the cooling block on the grinder stone your teeth on the chain can work harden and it’s tough to file after you grind it.

 

[user 122190]

I'm now 100% file sharpening. So so so many myths about chainsaw chain sharpening have fallen to the wayside. The guy is a bit extreme in his preaching (and IMO not complete accurate, or maybe not being all that clear), but Bucking Billy Ray Smith on YouTube can get one on the right path to excellent chain sharpening. YMMV...

Number 1, get all the files from 7/32 to 5/32, and use the proper file size for you chains stage or wear, and your results will be a major improvement. I am at or now exceeding factory sharpen with the cutting edge being durable during my cutting sessions (~a cord).

 

[Philbert]

If your not putting the cooling block on the grinder stone your teeth on the chain can work harden and it’s tough to file after you grind it.

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Number 1, get all the files from 7/32 to 5/32, and use the proper file size for you chains stage or wear, and your results will be a major improvement.

My Number 1 is use sharp files. They are a consumable, like sandpaper and Kleenex. Some guys try to sharpen with dull files and get poor results.

Philbert

 

[HarleyT]

This thread's birthday is tomorrow!!!

 

[Huskybill]

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My Number 1 is use sharp files. They are a consumable, like sandpaper and Kleenex. Some guys try to sharpen with dull files and get poor results.

Philbert

When I had my grinder there was a coolant block like a bar of soap we ran on the grinder stone so it didn’t burn and harden the teeth.

 

[Philbert]

When I had my grinder there was a coolant block like a bar of soap we ran on the grinder stone so it didn’t burn and harden the teeth.

Thanks for clarifying that. There is also a wax stick / crayon called 'Kool Grind' that is advertised to do something similar:
https://granberg.com/product/g440-kool-grind-grind-cooler-and-longer/ It fills in the spaces between the abrasive grit on the wheel, and is supposed to keep stuff from building up there. I was not impressed.

The biggest issues with grinding wheels overheating cutters are feed rate, and dull abrasive. Feed rate is easy to learn with a little practice: short, light touches. Dull wheels are a simple thing too: just like sandpaper, the sharp edges on the abrasive grit that makes up the wheels gets dull, and just rub against the chain instead of removing material. We throw sandpaper away when it no longer cuts. Grinding wheels should get dressed to expose fresh abrasive. Few guys do this. Dressing the grinding wheel is analogous to sharpening the chain: it is the 'business' part of the tool!

Philbert

 

[Huskybill]

That’s it the wax I’m sorry this was decades ago.

 

[Philbert]

That’s it the wax I’m sorry this was decades ago.

Lumber crayon or candle probably works just as well. And they come in pretty colors!

Philbert