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Looked in good condition, to be honest...but by then I'd already bought the 44.7mm meteor jug & piston. So - the OEM is now in my spare parts pile...if only the OEM piston wasn't $230NZD! When / if this new topend burns out I might grab an aftermarket 44mm piston and throw the original jug back...

The meteor piston kit I got has circlips without tags / ears. They're simple open ended rings. I'll pull her back apart on the weekend & align the grooves as per recommendations, thanks all!

So - I'm glad I didn't have leaky crank case seals BUT I didn't see the meteor piston circlip instructions to ensure the opening is either facing up or down. Should I be bothered pulling the cylinder and checking the orientation?

Nice. Saw is back together with the 0.5mm gasket and 44.7mm meteor piston. Ended out with 0.022" squish. The compression now feels 'normal' in terms of resistance on the starter cord. Did a muffler mod (added an additional 2 x 10mm drill holes behind the spark screen), ran a tank of 40:1...

Ouch. The OEM piston is $230NZD, which is too rich for my blood for this saw. I'll just run with the 44.7mm meteor piston and jug for now. It came with caber rings, and looks well-machined, and should have a high compression with the 0.5mm gasket.

According to this there are two thicknesses: https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/stihl/diagrams/026-pro/bc12137f-2a72-41f7-8c3d/ My local Stihl shop will probably just have the 1mm. I might get a quote on just a 44mm OEM piston kit as well.

Long time no post, but I'd been keeping an eye out for an 026 or 260 since my MS260 got stolen a couple of years ago (grrr!). The second hand supply has really tightened up on these over the last while. Anyway, I finally found a reasonable condition 026 Pro (decomp. valve + adjustable oiler)...

Awesome - many thanks. So she's a 40cc saw with 1.4kW / 1.8HP output, which is just over half the 2.6kW output of the MS260. Was quite surprised that the saw started after just 3 pulls (including 2 with the choke in full position) after what I think is several years between uses!

Here's a link to the owner's manual. It exists, I promise! :) https://www.poulanpro.com/tdrdownload/pub000044486/doc000079957 And a link to a second hand saw with a photo: http://www.gardeningaids.co.nz/shed/petrol-1.html

Long time no post here - but I just got given a Poulan Pro PP3640 from someone who doesn't need it anymore and was clearing their shed. Looks like a nice little saw with minimal use. And timely, since some %#$& stole my MS260 and Husky 266 recently. Although I've got a used 372XP coming as my...

I was *sure* I had the Husky 266 workshop manual somewhere, since I've rebuilt one. However, can no longer find it anywhere. Does any one have the Husqvarna 266 workshop manual, please?

Thanks guys - from what you've written it very much sounds as though it's supposed to be like this. Yes, the coil does seem to have a small centered spike down the hole, and with a firm push and clockwise rotation, the plug lead seems to set in there. I'm not used to such a laissez faire...

I'm half way through resurrecting a 1983 266se that I was given for free. It had a broken piston ring and was deemed by the farm it was on to therefore be a write-off. It had a non-working chain brake (now fixed) and a small crack in the top shroud, but the p & c don't look too bad, other...

The MS660 Service Manual (+/- the IPL) would be great - thanks in advance... :)

My MS260's idle fluctuates between about 2700 and 2900 (before reading this thread yesterday, from the service manual, I thought its idle was supposed to be 2500 - so it pays to keep reqading these forums!).

The full range of Fuchs Silkolene racing motorcycle oils are sold at the local auto chain store (Super Cheap Auto) - which is surprising given S.C.A usually have only 'economy' lines. The race and off road oils are group V ester-based synthetics - no group III or IV's here! So which, if any, of...

[in pirate voice] Arrrrgh, me hearty! Best ye be searching in the 'Bay! The treasure "Stihl" be there!

I have to say - right after "wow - cool" my next thought was "I bet they'd get lost more easily."

You're asking people on here for help with CAD? ....if you're doing that you may as well go into the nearest Stihl shop and empty your wallet on the counter. (in other words, go for it :greenchainsaw: )

Yeah - that's the other reason I gave it a good tap, but not a hard tap. I'm thinking your explanation about a partial seizure is pretty good - and now wish I'd coated the assembly with some nuclear-grade antiseize before putting it all back together (not that I intend pulling it apart again...