Back In The Shop......Now What's On Your Bench????

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Went to buy a carburetor kit for my 306, came back with a Stihl 170 to work on. Starts on a prime but won't continue to run...non-adjustable carb also. I've got it soaking right now but I imagine he'll need a new carburetor to get it right. Can't even use an adjustable because there's no holes in the saw to stick screwdriver through if it was adjustable. If it was mine I might take out the cordless and make a hole to adjust it with...
 
Went to buy a carburetor kit for my 306, came back with a Stihl 170 to work on. Starts on a prime but won't continue to run...non-adjustable carb also. I've got it soaking right now but I imagine he'll need a new carburetor to get it right. Can't even use an adjustable because there's no holes in the saw to stick screwdriver through if it was adjustable. If it was mine I might take out the cordless and make a hole to adjust it with...


I have an MS180c that had the non-adjustable carb, and the rebuild didn't act right... It would run ok for a few minutes after it got warmed up, but didn't clean out good if you let it sit and idle at all. It sounded like it was bogging and loosing power when first started on high idle, and it was intermittently while using it as well.

I am going to sell it to a friend/repeat customer, so I just didn't like it for him.


I have an MS250 that is missing a few parts and has a carbon-streaked piston, but it had a Zama carb with all three screws...

Took it off and rebuilt it. Drilled a few holes in the saw carb plastic housings to reach all three screws.

Sealed the air filter housing with silicone where the original carb plugged into it for pressure adjustment for air filter flow..... Cut some of this out with a dremel to clear the needles of the new Zama.

Then, I slightly tweaked the throttle arm hook to the side at a 7 o'clock instead of 6 o'clock. Filled the air impulse passage with JB weld and drilled the newly centered impulse hole in the carb body.


Results:

Runs great now. Tuned nice.

It can now sit and idle for 10 minutes and you can walk over, pick it up, and it revs ups snappy and strong... No stumbling or vaaaaaaroom. I am at 6,000 feet, so the one screw carbs are notorious for being rich.
 
What do you do on a rainy Saturday afternoon? You get some more work done on you old tractor.

I started out with replacing the muffler. I wanted a polished stainless muffler on it. The one that was on it was not the correct muffler and looked horrible. It was way too short as well. The correct stainless muffler is around $140. Instead, I bought a stainless Thrush glasspack on clearance for $40! Add a stainless clamp and a stainless rain cap and she's lookin' purdy!

New fuel cap and radiator cap gaskets were next on the list. No more listening to the fuel cap dance around!

Next up was the shifter boot. It was all split and cracked up. That's a good place for water to get in the transmission if left out in the rain.

Next I replaced the riveted on brake pad for the belt drive drum brake. This is used to stop the transmission from spinning for shifting gears.

I then replaced the oil seal on the brake output shaft. Believe it or not, this old tractor has a form of disc brakes! However, they don't work too well with gear lube on them!

Next up was to drain and flush the transmission. This thing holds almost 11 gallons of gear lube. No, that wasn't a typo! 10 3/4 gallons to fill it up! The lube that was in it was who knows how old, perhaps 70! Not only that, but it was 3-4 gallons low. After draining it, I filled it with 10 gallons of kerosene and drove it around for 5-6 minutes. The bottom of the case, what I could see, was nice and clean bare paint. After draining that, I then poured in a gallon of fresh gear lube to flush the last of the kerosene out. I'm letting it drip for a while now and will then fill it up with fresh 85W-140 gear lube.

Not for today, but I've not yet installed the gauges I have for it. I suppose there's always something to be done on an old tractor like this, but I'm getting closer to where I want it.

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I have an MS180c that had the non-adjustable carb, and the rebuild didn't act right... It would run ok for a few minutes after it got warmed up, but didn't clean out good if you let it sit and idle at all. It sounded like it was bogging and loosing power when first started on high idle, and it was intermittently while using it as well.

I am going to sell it to a friend/repeat customer, so I just didn't like it for him.


I have an MS250 that is missing a few parts and has a carbon-streaked piston, but it had a Zama carb with all three screws...

Took it off and rebuilt it. Drilled a few holes in the saw carb plastic housings to reach all three screws.

Sealed the air filter housing with silicone where the original carb plugged into it for pressure adjustment for air filter flow..... Cut some of this out with a dremel to clear the needles of the new Zama.

Then, I slightly tweaked the throttle arm hook to the side at a 7 o'clock instead of 6 o'clock. Filled the air impulse passage with JB weld and drilled the newly centered impulse hole in the carb body.


Results:

Runs great now. Tuned nice.

It can now sit and idle for 10 minutes and you can walk over, pick it up, and it revs ups snappy and strong... No stumbling or vaaaaaaroom. I am at 6,000 feet, so the one screw carbs are notorious for being rich.
I just noticed the air box on the Stihl 170 has adjustment holes in it, just not on the outside of the saw so I went ahead and ordered an adjustable carb for it, I figure I'll have to take the cylinder cover off of it to adjust the carb then just put it back on when I'm done. If the holes don't line up I'll just take the air filter holder off and bolt the carb on without it then adjust.
 
I had to cut out some of the air filter box to get access to the adjustment screws, which are further apart on a Zama than a Walbro. This is the dirty side of the filter anyways, so no big deal.

I drilled through the white housing for both the low and high, and notched the orange top cover for the high speed only.

I did have to drill through the handle for the main throttle blade adjustment screw.
 
I'm not gonna do any drilling on the saw unless I can't get it adjusted any other way because it's not my saw. I figure I'll adjust with cover off and let the owner worry about it after that, he mainly just wants it running right. I tried the OEM carb and it just wouldn't go...maybe it's the ethanol they use in it.. I will have to block the hole in the air filter housing because the new carb doesn't have the snorkel on top of it...
 
Put carb kits in two saws and one weed whacker this afternoon.

Still need a new fuel line for the Mac. One more weed whacker needs a carb kit and another needs a purge bulb
 
Today I messed with the super 2, 032aveq, and the ms180c my brother ran over with a forklift.

Next up is the cs-8000 once the new used recoil comes in the mail.
 
What do you do on a rainy Saturday afternoon? You get some more work done on you old tractor.

I started out with replacing the muffler. I wanted a polished stainless muffler on it. The one that was on it was not the correct muffler and looked horrible. It was way too short as well. The correct stainless muffler is around $140. Instead, I bought a stainless Thrush glasspack on clearance for $40! Add a stainless clamp and a stainless rain cap and she's lookin' purdy!

New fuel cap and radiator cap gaskets were next on the list. No more listening to the fuel cap dance around!

Next up was the shifter boot. It was all split and cracked up. That's a good place for water to get in the transmission if left out in the rain.

Next I replaced the riveted on brake pad for the belt drive drum brake. This is used to stop the transmission from spinning for shifting gears.

I then replaced the oil seal on the brake output shaft. Believe it or not, this old tractor has a form of disc brakes! However, they don't work too well with gear lube on them!

Next up was to drain and flush the transmission. This thing holds almost 11 gallons of gear lube. No, that wasn't a typo! 10 3/4 gallons to fill it up! The lube that was in it was who knows how old, perhaps 70! Not only that, but it was 3-4 gallons low. After draining it, I filled it with 10 gallons of kerosene and drove it around for 5-6 minutes. The bottom of the case, what I could see, was nice and clean bare paint. After draining that, I then poured in a gallon of fresh gear lube to flush the last of the kerosene out. I'm letting it drip for a while now and will then fill it up with fresh 85W-140 gear lube.

Not for today, but I've not yet installed the gauges I have for it. I suppose there's always something to be done on an old tractor like this, but I'm getting closer to where I want it.

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Very nice case you've got friend!
 
268 ( non xp), found in a council skip by my pals dad , has been lying in a shed for about 6 years until he gave it to me free as no use for him , no bar , looks like it had been crushed as the handle was bent and broken, chain brake handle was bent and cracked top cover was missing , air filter was broken off and a dent in the muffler and the fuel and oil cap missing , mouse had been chewing on the plug rubber but no big deal there so..apart from that it was not too bad , took it apart for inspection and only thing I found was the fuel line had been pulled when it got crushed and when the saw returned to its usual position the line had folded over so would,t run again for more than a few seconds , so likely why it ended up in a skip , checked the carb and looked good as new inside so blew it all out but nothing showed put it together for a test run anyway , still hone marks on the jug and machine marks on the piston and only a couple of tiny lines so not a huge amount of use and still the OEM piston and cyl (Gilardoni) .Test fitted the handle form my 61( 266 conversion) and it bolted right on , found replacemet top cover and air filtercover for £15($20) on ebay so waiting on them ,my spare 262 filter is the same one and fits to the frame perfect so that was a bonus too , fitted the brake handle from my spares 262 xp and it fitted perfectly to the mag 268 casing , rinsed out the fuel and oil tanks got a new fuel line form my local husky dealer and fitted it .filled it with fuel and oil , put a splash in the carb and it fired up right away and stopped another splash and it runs sweet as a watch and oiling good , set it four stroking at 13000 for now , not run in wood yet ..but yip a good deal there :)
 

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I checked the compression on the 015L and it showed a bit over 130 so that should be enough. I changed the spark plug and got a little bit of spark but not enough. I noticed the 015 came with both points and electronic ignition depending on the model and the L is supposed to be electronic but it's an older one and doesn't say electronic on the plate on top so who knows? I'm hoping it's points, cheaper to fix..
 
What's not on my work bench right now? Haha, currently my two biggest projects are a husky 350 that's getting a meteor piston and rings and a port job, as well as my new mac 10-10 lear charger that's getting a full fuel system tune up and all cleaned up to ad to my collection.
ADLM
 

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