diagnosis needed for chainsaw difficulties

[paul r]

Ok I'm a homeowner who cuts up about half a dozen cords of firewood every year for about the last ten years with a stihl ms290. My saw starts and seems to run well, but only for a couple of minutes, then it seems to bog down. It's almost as though the chain brake was on. I turn off the saw and with the brake off I am unable to even move the chain. If anything, I think I have the chain tension on the loose side and certainly it's not tight. Also, I've only been cutting for a few minutes, I made 6 cuts through 24" diameter locust wood, and I've used the best part of a tank of gas which doesn't seem quite right either. What's going on here?

I'll admit that I've never lubricated the bar tip, but it seems to turn pretty freely once I remove the chain.

Is it possible that my bar/chain combo is incorrect? The people at Baileys sold it to me, I don't know squat about pitch and gauge etc... The Woodland Pro chain packageing says it's a 325 .063"/ 1,6 mm and the Windsor "speed tip" bar has these numbers on it 63 3/8 72 G6

Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong here?

 

[Woodplayer]

Sounds to me like your bar/chain isn't getting any oil, you may want to start by checking that first .
Also looks like you may have a .325 chain and a bar with a .375 sprocket.
Did your problem only start after installing the bar/chain combo?

 

[fidiro]

How is your sprocket gear? If it is worn and you just installed a new bar/chain it may have damaged the chain.

Don't know what size bar/chain your running but that bar # you listed has a 72 which I would think is the links on chain to be used with it(not sure). I don't know if that combo is right or not but it seems like your running a 18" bar/chain. OEM Stihl bar and chain uses 74 links in the .063 .325.

Isn't the 72 links for 3/8 .50 20" chains? You may have the wrong combo or at least bar. If your sprocket is .325 you would need .325 chain and bar and it may be that you have a 3/8(.375) bar. Hope someone can clear this for you that knows that bar.

 

[paul r]

Sounds to me like your bar/chain isn't getting any oil, you may want to start by checking that first .

That sounds reasonable although I think I've been having this problem for awhile now and I generally seem to be going through oil and gas at about the same rate. But I'll certainly look into that again as it makes sense

thanks

 

[struggle]

Did you remove the sprocket and check behind it if it is gunked up. Sounds look it is oil if you are have to refill. Just make sure it is gettign to the bar.....hole in bar lines up with oil feed area.

 

[Great Smokies]

The bar and chain dont match- the chain is .325 gauge, the bar is 3/8. Take the bar off, then keep the chain on the sprocket on the saw. Down it match the grooves and run free, or does it jump ad click? If it is smoothe, then the chain is right for the saw, you need a .325 bar. If it isnt, then you need a 3/8 chain, the bar is good. Also, if the chain isnt matching the drive sprocket, check the chain's drive links or damage from knocking on the sprocket. 20" Bar you have O guess from the 72 links of 3/8 on the bar description....may be either size chain on a 290, that's kinda on the overlap from .325 to 3/8, so it may be either.

 

[paul r]

How is your sprocket gear? If it is worn and you just installed a new bar/chain it may have damaged the chain.

Well I'm not knowledgeable enough perhaps to recognize a bad sprocket but I am looking at it and I don't think it looks bad although there is clearly some wear where the chain and sprocket meet.

 

[paul r]

Did you remove the sprocket and check behind it if it is gunked up. Sounds look it is oil if you are have to refill. Just make sure it is gettign to the bar.....hole in bar lines up with oil feed area.

The sprocket spins freely and easily and I dont see any blockage in the oil pathway, and I just checked the oil tank and I'm still using plenty. Chain feels oily

 

[fidiro]

The bar and chain dont match- the chain is .325 gauge, the bar is 3/8. Take the bar off, then keep the chain on the sprocket on the saw. Down it match the grooves and run free, or does it jump ad click? If it is smoothe, then the chain is right for the saw, you need a .325 bar. If it isnt, then you need a 3/8 chain, the bar is good. Also, if the chain isnt matching the drive sprocket, check the chain's drive links or damage from knocking on the sprocket. 20" Bar you have O guess from the 72 links of 3/8 on the bar description....may be either size chain on a 290, that's kinda on the overlap from .325 to 3/8, so it may be either.

Well there it is someone who knows that bar. You have the wrong bar and although that size saw runs best on .325 you can change the sprocket to run 3/8(.375) but you would also have to buy another chain. The best thing is to just get the right bar if the sprocket does not show too much wear. If your unsure about sprocket wear and you can post some pics, someone may be able to tell you. I would think you can get away with just the right bar.

 

[MechanicMatt]

Hey Paul, next week I have to drive across the Tappan Zee bridge on the 15th and 16th for work. If you want we can meet up and Ill take that problem saw of your hands. Shoot cause Im such a nice guy ill even buy you dinner at Dave and Busters over at the mall. No on the real issue, Id check the gauge too. The pitch could be the problem but you don't want to over look anything. Does your bar get real hot while cutting?? EDIT How long a bar in 325 do you need??

 

[fidiro]

I guess to clear this up for sure you need to know what sprocket you have on the saw. Look for #'s like .325 or 3/8 on the sprocket and let us know what your saw should be running.

 

[paul r]

The bar and chain dont match- the chain is .325 gauge, the bar is 3/8. Take the bar off, then keep the chain on the sprocket on the saw. Down it match the grooves and run free, or does it jump ad click? If it is smoothe, then the chain is right for the saw, you need a .325 bar. If it isnt, then you need a 3/8 chain, the bar is good. Also, if the chain isnt matching the drive sprocket, check the chain's drive links or damage from knocking on the sprocket. 20" Bar you have O guess from the 72 links of 3/8 on the bar description....may be either size chain on a 290, that's kinda on the overlap from .325 to 3/8, so it may be either.

I'm sorry, my eyes are glazing over from all the numbers but I ran the chain over the sprocket and it certainly looks right to me.

 

[paul r]

I guess to clear this up for sure you need to know what sprocket you have on the saw. Look for #'s like .325 or 3/8 on the sprocket and let us know what your saw should be running.

sprocket says .325 stamped on it

 

[fidiro]

sprocket says .325 stamped on it

Exactly what we need to know. Now the chain is correct and bar is not.

What size chain did you buy?

Edit: By size of chain I mean how many links. Links of chain will determine what size bar you need with that new chain.

 

[paul r]

Exactly what we need to know. Now the chain is correct and bar is not.

What size chain did you buy?

Edit: By size of chain I mean how many links. Links of chain will determine what size bar you need with that new chain.

Not sure how to count them but the box says WPL 20 23rc81

does that tell you anything

 

[fidiro]

Looks like you have a 20" .063 .325 chain 81 links

you would need a 20" bar with .063 gauge and .325 pitch. All three #'s need to be taken into account when looking for the bar to fit that chain.

 

[paul r]

Looks like you have a 20" .063 .325 chain 81 links

I hate to be so ignorant but I am. Does gauge refer to the width of the track on the bar? Is my chain to fat to be passing through that track, is that the issue here?

 

[MechanicMatt]

Looks like you have a 20" .063 .325 chain 81 links

you would need a 20" bar with .063 gauge and .325 pitch. All three #'s need to be taken into account when looking for the bar to fit that chain.

Ah man I just read the original post again, and it states right there at the bottom that the chain was .325 while the bar is 3/8ths. Arghhhh. Any way I have a couple 16inch .325 setups if you want to confirm thats the problem. I can probably meet you some place and let you run one for a while then check for "binding" .

 

[MechanicMatt]

I hate to be so ignorant but I am. Does gauge refer to the width of the track on the bar? Is my chain to fat to be passing through that track, is that the issue here?

No pitch, the distance between drive links. The dog tooth looking things on the bottom of the chain. Yes the gauge is the width. The problem is the pitch.

 

[fidiro]

Gauge is the width of the track. I would think that bar's problem is mostly the roller tip which is designed only for 3/8"(.375)PITCH chain. Basically you will not be able to run that combo.