How do you guys sharpen chains?

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As far as the trunk integrity, this one was poor. It had been damaged, probably by lightning strike as evidenced by some internal charring and was missing bark on about the outer third of the trunk up to about 8 feet. The trunk wood in this area was dry and dead and the trunk split right along the live/dead wood boundary when it went down. The integrity was compromised too much to handle both the wind load and the 60K pounds plus weight of the tree. The other tree dropped a branch in 2005 and there was a big dead knot at the base of the branch where it broke off. But the tree itself went down in a heavy windstorm after several weeks of rain had saturated the ground and it was fully leafed out. The root structure was incapable of handling the wind loading in the wet ground and the roots were simply pulled up as it went over. It still had enough rooting to transport water and stay mostly green, even when down. There's another tree, even larger on the same property, but it shows no signs of weakness and it's surrounded by several smaller trees which provide a partial wind break. These trees can get as old as 140-150 years before going down. What usually gets them is rot caused by water infiltration along insect bores or termite infestation. Both trees were filled with channels cut by flat nosed borers. I cut up another tree in town that was just as large. It dropped a branch spontaneously in midsummer and when inspected by an arborist, was found to be harboring a huge bee colony and to be in imminent danger of falling and crushing the residence and had to be removed. The branch it dropped fell on the owner's lawnmower, among other things. The mower was driven into the ground about two feet and flattened like a beer can. This tree was in the back yard of the house, surrounded by structures and was removed by sectioning off the branches and lifting them out by crane, then attaching the crane to the trunk and cutting it free from the stump, a very impressive performance by the tree service guys. The stump section was 40 feet long and 5.5 feet in diameter at the base, weighed close to 35K pounds.
 
Ok, now I can make my admission after Slowp's tailgate sharpening pics...

I was too cold blooded to go and use the garage vice this winter.

So since the cold weather came in, I'd sharpen my saws by sitting in front of my woodstove with the door open (mmmmm...feel the radiant heat...not recommended if your saw is leaking gasoline :D )

Slap an old leather glove over my thigh, position the saw in a way I could sharpen it, use another old glove on my hand holding the chain/bar, and touch up the chain. Do one side, the re-position the saw to do the other half of the teeth.

A bit to my own surprise, it worked out OK the first time so I kept doing it.

I do like the suggestions above to cut a groove in a stump, too...and that will probably become my default in-the-field method.
 
You don't need a stump vise. Use the stump...just cut a kerf in it deep enough to steady the bar and you're good to go.

And dial calipers? If you're fine-tuning a race chain they'd probably be a handy thing to have. I've never seen them used in the woods.

If any of these anal-retentive "my chain must be perfect" types ever put a dial caliper on one of my chains he'd probably go into shock. But, somehow, in spite of my less than perfect cutter length and raker height, I seem to get a lot of wood on the ground.

A stump vice doesn't need to go into a stump. I've sharpend my saws on the tail gate, but it's a PITA compared to using a stump vise. I've flattened one side of a round and then noodled a groove into it. That's better than nothing, but the stump vice is the quickest and easiest solution that I've found. Just tap it into a round of firewood, and wala, instent vice and work bench. Even if you don't have any big rounds that you can use, you can still lay a smaller piece of firewood on its side and tap the vice in perpendicular to the grain and then use your tailgate.

It would be a complete waste of time to use a set of calipers in the woods. I pitty (a little bit anyway) anyone that's that anal. When I mentioned using calipers, I was refering to the work bench at home, maybe three or four times in the life of the chain, or after hitting a rock, fence, nail, bullet, or what ever in a tree. It's a tool to be used to get the chain back to a uniform condition once in a while. Not something to be used when touching up the chain, especially out in the woods.
 
A stump vice doesn't need to go into a stump. I've sharpend my saws on the tail gate, but it's a PITA compared to using a stump vise. I've flattened one side of a round and then noodled a groove into it. That's better than nothing, but the stump vice is the quickest and easiest solution that I've found. Just tap it into a round of firewood, and wala, instent vice and work bench. Even if you don't have any big rounds that you can use, you can still lay a smaller piece of firewood on its side and tap the vice in perpendicular to the grain and then use your tailgate.

It would be a complete waste of time to use a set of calipers in the woods. I pitty (a little bit anyway) anyone that's that anal. When I mentioned using calipers, I was refering to the work bench at home, maybe three or four times in the life of the chain, or after hitting a rock, fence, nail, bullet, or what ever in a tree. It's a tool to be used to get the chain back to a uniform condition once in a while. Not something to be used when touching up the chain, especially out in the woods.

Well said. As a rule I don't sharpen in the woods, I just change chains. But if I'm a long way from the pickup or my day bag and I need to touch one up to finish a cut I'll just do a quick hand file.

The exception to this is if I get into a lot of really dirty wood and eat up all of my spare chains...then I spend a little time on them. A while back we were falling second growth on a side hill that was all shot-rock from an old mining operation. When the trees hit the ground they'd get full of rock. I used every chain I had that day and resharpened on my lunch break. Doesn't take long...a 36" bar with full skip has only 38 cutters.
 
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Well: another "don't tell me anything I don't know".

Northeastern loggers don't need no stinkin' 36" skip chains:dizzy:; our trees are DBH averaging < 24". In Rare cases a dead standing 'pasture oak' > 36" left long ago as a property marker will need felling. Most of our bars are +/- 24" tops. And, most sawlog/veneer cuts are hardwoods, not those easy peazy obese softwoods found on the left coast.:hmm3grin2orange::msp_ohmy:

Believe it: I've even dropped a 34" DBH dead oak with my 260 18" bar. Can you believe ? ( Do I dare say "boring"? :msp_unsure:) Dead oaks are chain killers since the cambium sucks up grit even though dead.

And again: wouldn't do without the handy stump vise for quick touch ups or rockers in the field, far from the vehicle or shop. Try it Bob, maybe something new. Try the Pferd tools. Another 'new'.....then "Bob's your uncle".
 
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Just got a PFERD... Used the 3/8 last night... Rollers work well... Would like it to sit just a bit lower on the tooth, but overall, did a good consistent job both directions and totally portable. Fits in my pocket next to the chew can...:msp_wink: Not a necessary tool, but it's one I'll be keeping...
 
Just curious, where do you buy the Pferd system at?

I bought a bar mounted system from Tractor Supply and I do not care for it, Oregon Sure Sharp brand. When trying to sharpen one set of teeth, it does not want to slide right.

I don't quite understand how it is supposed to be mounted either. The directions say to put the front clamp on the center of the chain rivets. But I tried that and soon as I turn the chain, it will come off. So I just put it as close to the chain as possible when I used it.

So I just took the file out and started sharpening by hand. I still need to get a raker guide eventually.

Let's see if someone can explain this to me. I took a protractor and measured the angle of the line that is on the tooth and it was 60 degrees. But the box says it is a 35 degree cutting angle.

Thanks for all the great responses. And that is one big oak tree.
 
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Let's see if someone can explain this to me. I took a protractor and measured the angle of the line that is on the tooth and it was 60 degrees. But the box says it is a 35 degree cutting angle.

Thanks for all the great responses. And that is one big oak tree.

Just because it says so on the box (advertising) doesn't mean that it came from the factory that way. What you measured at 60 degrees, is also 30 degrees from being perpendicular (90-60=30). Your cutters are currently at 30 degrees. I've not seen that are at 35 degrees (but I haven't looked much either). Most of them are either 25 or 30. I like 30 better, but I've found that it needs touched up a little more often. I touch up after every tank, so that's no big deal to me.
 
You joke about NY and face cord but its the truth. Everyone who sells firewood here sells it by the "face" cord. Even the log loads I get are advertised as 18-20 cord (they really mean face cord). I don't remember the last time I saw firewood for sale which actually meant a full cord. What's even worse is 90 percent of them don't even disclose that its a face cord and just advertise it as a cord which makes it even worse.

When you ask for 3 cord of wood here you get one full cord :angry:
 
Slabwood Can Eat Chains

Well said. As a rule I don't sharpen in the woods, I just change chains. But if I'm a long way from the pickup or my day bag and I need to touch one up to finish a cut I'll just do a quick hand file.

The exception to this is if I get into a lot of really dirty wood and eat up all of my spare chains...then I spend a little time on them. A while back we were falling second growth on a side hill that was all shot-rock from an old mining operation. When the trees hit the ground they'd get full of rock. I used every chain I had that day and resharpened on my lunch break. Doesn't take long...a 36" bar with full skip has only 38 cutters.
+1. Take an extra chain or two to the worksite and use all of them before you sharpen anything.

When you get back to the shop, sharpen your chains there using any tecnnique that you are comfortable with. I once went through three chains at the worksite--all of it was slabwood and the bark was packed with dirt. It was senseless to continue.
 
Great pics and stories!

Your giant tree got my bragger whopper oak I dropped beat 2 to 1 on volume/cords. That's one mambo tree there!
 
Just curious, where do you buy the Pferd system at?

I bought a bar mounted system from Tractor Supply and I do not care for it, Oregon Sure Sharp brand. When trying to sharpen one set of teeth, it does not want to slide right.

I don't quite understand how it is supposed to be mounted either. The directions say to put the front clamp on the center of the chain rivets. But I tried that and soon as I turn the chain, it will come off. So I just put it as close to the chain as possible when I used it.

So I just took the file out and started sharpening by hand. I still need to get a raker guide eventually.

Let's see if someone can explain this to me. I took a protractor and measured the angle of the line that is on the tooth and it was 60 degrees. But the box says it is a 35 degree cutting angle.

Thanks for all the great responses. And that is one big oak tree.

No need for all that mounting or raker guides with the PFERD system. Just follow the witness lines on top of the teeth. Except for precise milling, the Pferd does BOTH tooth and raker in each pass to ~ .025" .

PFERD is sold by Baileys online here and at pro dealers under both "Pferd" and another name by Husky ( may be "ChainSharp"). Be sure to match the Pferd to your chain pitch.

It's so easy and fast to use that we rarely use the grinder anymore. With a stump vise it's great in the field.

JMNSHO:confused:
 
You're going to destroy a young hardwood every time you go cut rather than spend $10, and you're telling US to tighten up OUR game???? Destroying one perfectly healthy hardwood would get me kicked off of just about any of the properties that I cut on.

Different strokes for different folks I guess.

I have one tree with a hole in it on the landing, always a garbage tree that will never have any value beyond pulp or firewood. And the hole heals right over in a few years.
 
I have one tree with a hole in it on the landing, always a garbage tree that will never have any value beyond pulp or firewood. And the hole heals right over in a few years.

all trees have a value, it is not your fault if you cant see that

Trees do not repair themselves, the damaged wood dies and is compartmentalised, the trees health is affected forever.
 
cord/face cord

I am familiar with the term face cord, but you rarely hear it out here on the left coast. Most people who sell, sell by the cord and some of them are honest. I did hear several comments when I was selling on the side like, "That's looks like a lot more than I got the last time I bought a cord," and after unloading the trailer (2/3 of a cord), then dropping it and backing the truck up to the pile, "There's more?" After I quit selling, I told my buyers that anyone who drove up with a pickup load had better have it all the way full right up to the top of at least 3 foot sideboards if they were delivering a cord.
 
all trees have a value, it is not your fault if you cant see that

Trees do not repair themselves, the damaged wood dies and is compartmentalised, the trees health is affected forever.

Cry me a river. You guys have any idea how many saplings I run over every day in the woods? You'd all be flagellating yerselves till you was out of blood.
four.jpg


This mamby pamby "don't harm the poor tree!" malarkey is falling on deaf ears. Sell the treehugger propoganda to someone else.
treehugger.jpg
 
all trees have a value, it is not your fault if you cant see that
Trees do not repair themselves, the damaged wood dies and is compartmentalised, the trees health is affected forever.

Sorry Saltas--that's wrong in both cases, as in incorrect.....twice. Trees are a crop to many, analogous to food or animals we grow and eat for survival.

The "value" is subjective; anthropomorphizing or bambiizing :msp_rolleyes: trees doesn't make anything more or less valuable. We harvest, we use the product for building as well as aesthetics. Paper. Fuel. Veneer. Chemicals.

Now trees will 'heal' themselves over time. Many generations-old trees have repaired 'injuries' ( e.g. lightening, fencing, rounds, blazes, fire, etc....) that have not affected the growth or functionality of the tree. Can't tell you how many we've harvested for high end use ( veneer or flooring for example) that have "repaired themselves". Plenty of Forestry Science and biology for you to read.

Please, no bambi stuff.

JMNSHO
 
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