get the NT one thats right aound the 100 billmark...its the one where there was a lonnnnggggg thread some time back,,and the mods they did to it--MANY of them were sold then--because of that thread--i now own two!!!!
How do you guys sharpen chains?
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get the NT one thats right aound the 100 billmark...its the one where there was a lonnnnggggg thread some time back,,and the mods they did to it--MANY of them were sold then--because of that thread--i now own two!!!!
HighGuy
ArboristSite Operative
I finally got my pics loaded. These are of a cutter filed with the roller guide. I usually make one freehand stroke on the bottom of the gullet, just to clean it up. As you can see, it does a fantastic job.
Never seen them in use! and how many different things do you keep buying to find something that really works? ... But after your video and pics? I think Bailey's and others are going to get a heck of a run on their sales!
"Another thing to carry around?" .... That small? That easy? ... Yep! I'm in for a couple!
THANKS for the time taking them & putting them up!
wigglesworth
Booned
You know, I thought to myself "Here I am, one handed, holding a camera overhead trying to file a chain. I bet im doing a real good job. Ah well nobody will notice...."
Admittedly, I do much better when I concentrate on the filing. Thanks a lot for pointing that out you Jerk....
HighGuy
ArboristSite Operative
Maybe next time a helmet cam? So, you can use 2 hands. What were you thinking?:hmm3grin2orange:
tibikedad
ArboristSite Member
I sharpen all my chains with an Oregon grinder (cost me $350). I'll use a chain until is starts to get dull (1-2 tanks of gas), and then switch it out for another sharp one. I have about 30 chains, and typically go through 3-5 chains a day. When I have about 20 dull ones, I set up the grinder, and lightly touch up all the chains. It takes me only about 4-5 minutes / chain, so I don't mind it. The key is to take a very minimum amount of metal from each tooth. This way you don't heat up the teeth and ruin them.
Switching out the chain gives the saw time to cool down, and gives my back a rest, too!
Switching out the chain gives the saw time to cool down, and gives my back a rest, too!
STLfirewood
Addicted to ArboristSite
I try not to cut close to the ground. I cut a lot of tops. They are usually off the ground. I grap a top with the skid steer grapple and work it up. It's easy to keep a chain in good shape like that. I don't think new chains wouyld be a waste if you were selling the old ones to recover some cost. Someone would be using them.
Scott
Supply a Fixed Saw With a Sharp Chain
If I have no used replacement chain to offer, I let him know that the old chain is garbage. Always be honest. To me, a saw is not fixed or restored unless it can operate with a usable chain. Otherwise, all you did was succeed in getting a motor running that can't cut a banana in half. What good is that for anyone?
Forum, please discuss.
+1. However, nobody pays a dime for a used chain, especially one that is worn out. My strategy is to look for a chain in my inventory that is in better shape than the chain on the customer's saw. If I can find one, I replace his worn out chain, repair the saw, insert the worthless chain in a plastic bag (sharpened if possible), and give the saw and the old worthless chain back with practically nothing added to the bill. I document in writing exactly what I did in a note to the customer.
If I have no used replacement chain to offer, I let him know that the old chain is garbage. Always be honest. To me, a saw is not fixed or restored unless it can operate with a usable chain. Otherwise, all you did was succeed in getting a motor running that can't cut a banana in half. What good is that for anyone?
Forum, please discuss.
If more dealers did things like this, there would be very little that people purchased off the internet.
Well, I suppose, but look at it this way. If a repair shop spends three or four hours getting a saw engine to run and the engine is driving a worn out chain loop, the overall objective of repairing the saw is not met and the time and owner's money could be wasted.
The idea is to supply a saw to the customer that cuts wood. A saw that runs well with a dull or worn out chain fails. It kind of bugs me to spend several hours saving an engine and then return the saw to the owner with a worthless chain on board.
opcorn:
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StinkyBunny
ArboristSite Operative
This is the way business used to be done, sadly you and I are a dying breed when it comes to showing people the correct way to do things.
I use my Stihl sharpener for sharpening. Anyone considering the Mao Freight sharpener should NOT waste your money, it's total and utter GARBAGE!!!:msp_angry:
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
There is anouther way too look at this as well.Well, I suppose, but look at it this way. If a repair shop spends three or four hours getting a saw engine to run and the engine is driving a worn out chain loop, the overall objective of repairing the saw is not met and the time and owner's money could be wasted.
The idea is to supply a saw to the customer that cuts wood. I saw that runs well with a dull or worn out chain fails. It kind of bugs me to spend several hours saving an engine and then return the saw to the owner with a worthless chain on board.
Say a customers brings his vehicle to me and tells me his tire monitoring system is ####ed and oh by the way please balance the wheels because its vibrateing at over 80MPH.After checking said veh I discover it has 2 tires below 20psi and the TPM system is doing its level best to let the driver know this but he chose too pay a tow bill and have me tell him.
I hope you see what I'm getting at,I can keep the guys tires inflated and you can't keep the other guys chain sharp.
Well, I suppose, but look at it this way. If a repair shop spends three or four hours getting a saw engine to run and the engine is driving a worn out chain loop, the overall objective of repairing the saw is not met and the time and owner's money could be wasted.
The idea is to supply a saw to the customer that cuts wood. A saw that runs well with a dull or worn out chain fails. It kind of bugs me to spend several hours saving an engine and then return the saw to the owner with a worthless chain on board.
I agree 100%
flyfshrmn
ArboristSite Lurker
sharpening chains
If you own a chain saw, you should learn to sharpen it. It's worthless without a sharp chain and using it with the chain dull just heats up the bar, the chain, sprocket drive, and clutch. If the chain is not throwing big chips, then it's dull or improperly sharpened. I use an air die grinder or Dremel tool with a diamond sharpener to touch up chains on the saw. During the day, I touch up as necessary, usually every other tank of fuel, with the appropriate file. Once the chain has been in use for a while and it's dependent on what you're cutting, you need to check the rakers with a guage and file them down. I do it with a diamond wheel by eye, then go back and check with the guage. Make sure you round off the raker teeth or the chain will not make even contact. No matter how good you are with a file or the grinder, sooner or later, the teeth will get uneven. When that happens, I put it on my saw chain grinder and reset the angles, removing the minimum amount of metal possible. To keep a chain sawing straight, you must have the same angle on both right and left teeth. I haven't found raker height to be a factor in off line cutting unless the teeth angles are also off. But raker height is the most common problem with shop sharpened chains, because they take way too much off the teeth. You can also adjust the rakers for different types of wood. Cutting in wet green almond or oak with full or semi-chisel chain, you can file them way down and really increase the cutting speed without harming either the saw or the chain. In that type of cutting, the wood is soft enough and wet enough that the chain won't heat up and it takes much bigger chips. Remember, a chain saw is not a saw, it is a motorized multi-chisel (that's why the tooth shape is called chisel or semi-chisel). I've not tried it with chipper chains, but I don't use them at all any more. My chain saw grinder is a HF cheapie and I don't trust it for anything more than resetting angles. If you buy a cheapie grinder, you have to be very precise in setting the grinding angle. Make sure that it is the same on both sides by grinding on an old chain and checking the teeth with a micrometer and a protractor. If it's not, take it back and get one that is. Both the Granberg and the Oregon bar clamp sharpeners work well (I own both) but I find them too time consuming. It's better to learn to sharpen by eye and hand. You will develop a feel for when the tooth is just right. As long as you are not removing a lot of metal or dealing with a chain damaged by hitting metal or rock, you can keep your chains just as good as one new out of the box. I have several semi-chisel chains that I have used and sharpened to the point where there is hardly any tooth left. They still cut straight and true and throw great big chips.
If you own a chain saw, you should learn to sharpen it. It's worthless without a sharp chain and using it with the chain dull just heats up the bar, the chain, sprocket drive, and clutch. If the chain is not throwing big chips, then it's dull or improperly sharpened. I use an air die grinder or Dremel tool with a diamond sharpener to touch up chains on the saw. During the day, I touch up as necessary, usually every other tank of fuel, with the appropriate file. Once the chain has been in use for a while and it's dependent on what you're cutting, you need to check the rakers with a guage and file them down. I do it with a diamond wheel by eye, then go back and check with the guage. Make sure you round off the raker teeth or the chain will not make even contact. No matter how good you are with a file or the grinder, sooner or later, the teeth will get uneven. When that happens, I put it on my saw chain grinder and reset the angles, removing the minimum amount of metal possible. To keep a chain sawing straight, you must have the same angle on both right and left teeth. I haven't found raker height to be a factor in off line cutting unless the teeth angles are also off. But raker height is the most common problem with shop sharpened chains, because they take way too much off the teeth. You can also adjust the rakers for different types of wood. Cutting in wet green almond or oak with full or semi-chisel chain, you can file them way down and really increase the cutting speed without harming either the saw or the chain. In that type of cutting, the wood is soft enough and wet enough that the chain won't heat up and it takes much bigger chips. Remember, a chain saw is not a saw, it is a motorized multi-chisel (that's why the tooth shape is called chisel or semi-chisel). I've not tried it with chipper chains, but I don't use them at all any more. My chain saw grinder is a HF cheapie and I don't trust it for anything more than resetting angles. If you buy a cheapie grinder, you have to be very precise in setting the grinding angle. Make sure that it is the same on both sides by grinding on an old chain and checking the teeth with a micrometer and a protractor. If it's not, take it back and get one that is. Both the Granberg and the Oregon bar clamp sharpeners work well (I own both) but I find them too time consuming. It's better to learn to sharpen by eye and hand. You will develop a feel for when the tooth is just right. As long as you are not removing a lot of metal or dealing with a chain damaged by hitting metal or rock, you can keep your chains just as good as one new out of the box. I have several semi-chisel chains that I have used and sharpened to the point where there is hardly any tooth left. They still cut straight and true and throw great big chips.
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logbutcher
Addicted to ArboristSite
Granberg, roller, grinders all do the job. For simplicity, speed, accuracy, cost , AND .....does the rakers with each pass:
PFERD
..seen at Bailey's or any good pro dealer.
PFERD
..seen at Bailey's or any good pro dealer.
The PFERD can't be used on skip chain can it?
logbutcher
Addicted to ArboristSite
Pferd sharpens the individual tooth/raker sets. Yes on skip.
Ask to see one in action at a good pro dealer.
Note: This tool is better than silicone implants. And no, I have no skin in the Pferd game....except as enthusiast/user.
Hedgerow
HACK
Do they make seperate units for 3/8 vs .325? Or one size fits all?
rhizando
ArboristSite Lurker
Always remember to put the chain back on in the right direction = )
:bang:
:bang:
Oldtimer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Bore a hole in a small hardwood at a 15* angle upwards, at a height equal to the top of your belly. Move the saw side to side a little to open the hole up a bit, and a tiny bit up / down so the bar and chain isn't held tight, but not loose.
You now have a perfect filing station.
Sharpen both sides, then lift the saw with one hand and advance the chain by pushing it forward with the file on the BACK side of the filed tooth closest to the saw. This means you won't re-file a tooth. Keep your eye open for the first filed tooth as you keep advancing the chain.
Grinders and shop ground chains are for rank amateurs. Be a man, file with a damn saw file. A file costs me $1.00 at the Husky shop.
I can file a chain to nubs that start breaking off with that ONE file.
Tighten up your game people.
You now have a perfect filing station.
Sharpen both sides, then lift the saw with one hand and advance the chain by pushing it forward with the file on the BACK side of the filed tooth closest to the saw. This means you won't re-file a tooth. Keep your eye open for the first filed tooth as you keep advancing the chain.
Grinders and shop ground chains are for rank amateurs. Be a man, file with a damn saw file. A file costs me $1.00 at the Husky shop.
I can file a chain to nubs that start breaking off with that ONE file.
Tighten up your game people.
Bar on Shoulder Technique
An alternative to Old Timer's technique is the bar on shoulder:
For chains on bars 20" long or more, sit down and rest the bar and chain on your left shoulder and the engine between your legs. With the file in your right hand, sharpen the teeth with a good file.
You can't do the rakers this way, but it will put you back in business after you rocked a chain.
An alternative to Old Timer's technique is the bar on shoulder:
For chains on bars 20" long or more, sit down and rest the bar and chain on your left shoulder and the engine between your legs. With the file in your right hand, sharpen the teeth with a good file.
You can't do the rakers this way, but it will put you back in business after you rocked a chain.
