I aquired this splitter and am trying to get it to split however it wont .The pump that is on it is a hydreco 1506 which has the specifications 2.9 gpm at 1000rpm also it says 2500 psi at 13.6 gpm.The motor is a square block with a head about 7x6 on it .It looks a lot bigger than a 8 hp kohler, seems to run fine.when the ram hits the wood against the wedge it just stops. any help .thanks joe
log splitter has no pressure to split
- Thread starter smoknjoe
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jthornton
ArboristSite Guru
Does the motor stop running or bog down when you try and split wood?
John
John
xrayman
ArboristSite Operative
change the filter if it has one. Check the fluid level and for kinked bad hoses. Could have a bad seal in the cylinder or the pumps bad
Muffler Bearing
"Support Our Troops"
Welcome SmokenJoe,
Have you bled the system, some will self bleed if you cycle the cylinder several times under no load. Your hyd filter could be clogged. Also after bleeding the system you will probably have to top it of again.
Have you bled the system, some will self bleed if you cycle the cylinder several times under no load. Your hyd filter could be clogged. Also after bleeding the system you will probably have to top it of again.
jthornton
ArboristSite Guru
Try cycling the cylinder through some full strokes to make sure any air is out of the system. I'm not a hyd expert and don't play one on tv just using common sense a bit. If not air in the system then I would have to guess the pump might be worn out or the relief valve is weak as it seems to make enough pressure to move the cylinder. If you can view the return while trying to split and plenty of fluid is moving then I guess the cylinder is bad. Or a clogged input for what ever reason.
John
John
John R
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What you have sounds like a 2 stage pump, for some reason it's not kicking down to the 2nd stage where it builds it's high pressure.
Might have a bad pump.
Might have a bad pump.
Muffler Bearing
"Support Our Troops"
The hydreco pump is single stage.
Relief valve setting not high enough. 2. Increase pressure setting of relief valve.
3. Relief valve leaking. 3. Check valve seat for scoring mark and reseat.
4. Spring in relief valve broken. 4. Replace spring and readjust valve.
5. Free circulation of oil to tank being allowed 5. Control valve may be in neutral, or return line open
through system. unintentionally.
6. Internal leakage in control valves or cylinders
Relief valve setting not high enough. 2. Increase pressure setting of relief valve.
3. Relief valve leaking. 3. Check valve seat for scoring mark and reseat.
4. Spring in relief valve broken. 4. Replace spring and readjust valve.
5. Free circulation of oil to tank being allowed 5. Control valve may be in neutral, or return line open
through system. unintentionally.
6. Internal leakage in control valves or cylinders
Check the coupler between the engine and the pump. I don't know what kind it is but if it has a key and it sheared or fell out, you would probably have enough friction to drive the pump untill it came under load.
I had the same problem and a hydraulic mechanic told me my pump was way to big for the 12hp Kohler. He said it looked like the pump came off an old Cat D9. I bought a 16 gpm pump from Baileys Hydraulics for $128 and seems to work just fine. I also converted to direct drive from pullies. good luck with yours, Joe.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
The fact that the cylinder moves at all means that the engine is turning the pump, the pump is operational, the coupler is intact and the control valve is working. So there can really only be one cause for no force and that is that something is preventing the buildup of high pressure. There are many good ideas on this thread already. It wouldn't be a filter because a restricted filter will affect the rate of flow but won't prevent a buildup of pressure.
A pump that is too large will stall the engine. So if your engine isn't dying or a belt slipping that isn't the problem.
The most inexpensive way to troubleshoot this difficulty will be to acquire a hydraulic guage. Get a gauge and an assortment of fittings that will allow you to place it at certain points in the system. You will want one that goes to about 3000 psi. These are readily available from places that sell splitter components, Northern Tool, probably Tractor Supply Company and a myriad of online sellers. First place I would put it is in the line that goes to the cylinder feed for the forward position (ie, the rear of the cylinder.) If you have pressure there when you move the control to the split position then the problem is your cylinder. If you don't have pressure there, put the gauge in the output line of your pump. If you don't have pressure there, then you have a bad pump. And so forth. For most of these checks you want to have the gauge at the end of the line and not teed into the line as any problem downstream will cause a low reading. Once you have located and corrected your problem, you can tee the gauge into your system to keep track of what kind of pressures you are operating at.
This may sound like a lot of hassle but it will keep you from "shotgunning" which is changing out parts until you happen to find the correct trouble.
The cylinder not working means it needs rebuild or replace, a pump not putting out pressure could be several causes as simple as adjustment or as serious as replacement. If you have pressure at the pump, but not at the cylinder, then the problem is in your valve which is either internally leaking or bypassing a pressure relief if it has one. Based on your symptoms, my "guess" would be that it is the cylinder but I would check with the gauge first. Let us know what you find.
A pump that is too large will stall the engine. So if your engine isn't dying or a belt slipping that isn't the problem.
The most inexpensive way to troubleshoot this difficulty will be to acquire a hydraulic guage. Get a gauge and an assortment of fittings that will allow you to place it at certain points in the system. You will want one that goes to about 3000 psi. These are readily available from places that sell splitter components, Northern Tool, probably Tractor Supply Company and a myriad of online sellers. First place I would put it is in the line that goes to the cylinder feed for the forward position (ie, the rear of the cylinder.) If you have pressure there when you move the control to the split position then the problem is your cylinder. If you don't have pressure there, put the gauge in the output line of your pump. If you don't have pressure there, then you have a bad pump. And so forth. For most of these checks you want to have the gauge at the end of the line and not teed into the line as any problem downstream will cause a low reading. Once you have located and corrected your problem, you can tee the gauge into your system to keep track of what kind of pressures you are operating at.
This may sound like a lot of hassle but it will keep you from "shotgunning" which is changing out parts until you happen to find the correct trouble.
The cylinder not working means it needs rebuild or replace, a pump not putting out pressure could be several causes as simple as adjustment or as serious as replacement. If you have pressure at the pump, but not at the cylinder, then the problem is in your valve which is either internally leaking or bypassing a pressure relief if it has one. Based on your symptoms, my "guess" would be that it is the cylinder but I would check with the gauge first. Let us know what you find.
first off the lines from the pump to the controls were the same size as the return line 1 1/4 so I have reduced the line to control to 1/2 and the lines to the cylinder are 1/2 and the return is 1 1/4. there is no filter in line and the out line from contol is at the top of the tank and the return to the pump is at the bottom of tank.I have cut a tee in between the pump and control and going to put a gauge there to see if pressure from pump 1-11-11 and let you guys know.thanks for the help, smoknjoe.
RVALUE
Addicted to ArboristSite
My splitter sat for about ten years. I fired it up, and it would retract like a SOB and wouldnt go down at all. Couldn't figure it out, changed valve everything. Turned out to be the inner sleeve in the hose was split and acted like a check valve.
It didn't let a drop out!
stihl_in_texas
ArboristSite Member
One thing to consider when using a gauge to check the system is the pump delivers flow to the system not pressure. Pressure comes from the resistance to flow in the system. If you stick a gauge between the pump and the relief valve and the gauge indicates a low reading, it can be the relief valve is stuck in the WFO position, not a faulty pump. Not a very likely scenario, but it is possible. Good luck.
Steve
Steve
fearofpavement
Trying them all
Steve, I agree that installing a gauge in a T will only show operational pressure if everything is working normally. That is why I suggested putting the gauge at the "end of the line" and moving it around until the problem is located. ie, not having a "loop" in the system but terminating with the gauge. Even air will not keep pressure from building up. It can cause all kinds of erratic problems but eventually the air will compress and pressure will build as long as you have fluid in the pump. Whether one starts at the pump and works toward the cylinder or at the cylinder and works towards the pump, a gauge will locate the source of the problem. I suggested starting at the cylinder because my guess is that is the likely culprit but primarily the plumbing to the gauge may be simpler with the longer hoses and more access room.
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