I was using my ms 180 today and all the sudden the chain stopped moving... I took the chain and bar off and the clutch is not moving freely .. It moves but takes alot of force to get it to turn help please i just got this saw back running today and it was running great.
Ms 180 clutch frozen
- Thread starter Ron8480
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Make sure it isn't your chain brake causing it.
If that is OK, remove the c-clip and washer and look at the bearing.
If that is OK, remove the c-clip and washer and look at the bearing.
D
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Needle bearings?
I removed the c clip and washer but i didnt remove the clutch.. Should i remove the clutch ? I didnt know what all i was getting into. Figured i would see what you guys had to say first.. I looked at a couple threads to see if i could find anything similar but no luck
Pull the muff and check the piston
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For the sake of clarity.
This is your sprocket, with the clip and washer removed, this should lift right off, and it should spin freely.
This is your sprocket, with the clip and washer removed, this should lift right off, and it should spin freely.
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And beneath the sprocket, your clutch looks like this:
That is not what you said!
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The sprocket should spin freely on a bearing that looks like this.
Yours may be molten and locked up.
Yours may be molten and locked up.
If you follow the discussion you will find it appears to be confusion on what was what so calm down.
If you remove the sprocket what shape is the bearing in? Once removed does it free up or does it still struggle to spin by hand?
Give him a break, newbie mistake. He'll learn the ropes if he hangs around long enough.
Steve
Steve
Axotopia
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Hope this helps ... link below to a MS180 parts diagram, go to page 14 to see the brake-clutch assembly.
https://maquicasaperu.com/pdf/stihl/ms180.pdf
https://maquicasaperu.com/pdf/stihl/ms180.pdf
Little Al
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Sprocket needle bearings are cents to buy clean shaft & inside sprocket clean clutch grease & refit bearing/ clip& you should be good to go check your chainbrake is not dragging
These small saws seem to have a lot of clutch spring breakage, when they let go they will often cause lockup of the clutch drum, needle cage bearings also as already mentioned get dry and crumble.
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Pulling off that sprocket will explain a lot.
Ron8480
These guys know their stuff! Read and ask questions! That's what I did several years ago. Back then I owned one chainsaw! Now I have 15...mostly because of the interest these good folks on this forum have generated in my mind. They are really REALLY nice people and they will help you get that saw figured out!
So, yes, pop that "E" clip (or "C" clip as most folks like me call it) off the end of the crank. Be sure to cover it with your hand as you pop it loose so it doesn't go flying across the street into the neighbors yard. Then just pull that clutch drum off the crank shaft. Parts should not fall out...but if you have a broken clutch spring the clutch may kinda start coming apart. It's not complicated so don't worry about it. Just be sure that you DO NOT start the saw engine without having that clutch drum/sprocket installed. If you do the clutch can fly apart sending metal pieces flying all over at very high speeds causing injury or worse!
These guys know their stuff! Read and ask questions! That's what I did several years ago. Back then I owned one chainsaw! Now I have 15...mostly because of the interest these good folks on this forum have generated in my mind. They are really REALLY nice people and they will help you get that saw figured out!
So, yes, pop that "E" clip (or "C" clip as most folks like me call it) off the end of the crank. Be sure to cover it with your hand as you pop it loose so it doesn't go flying across the street into the neighbors yard. Then just pull that clutch drum off the crank shaft. Parts should not fall out...but if you have a broken clutch spring the clutch may kinda start coming apart. It's not complicated so don't worry about it. Just be sure that you DO NOT start the saw engine without having that clutch drum/sprocket installed. If you do the clutch can fly apart sending metal pieces flying all over at very high speeds causing injury or worse!
If the clutch needs removed, do yourself a favor and go to the dealer and get the piston stop specified for the saw.
If you use rope, you're likely to not get the piston in the right position and the rod will bend. It's only made of a piece of stamped sheet metal.
Do not use a screw in piston stop. It will go right through the paper thin piston crown.
Do not use an impact gun. You will either sheer the flywheel key or break the clutch spider.
Yes, I have seen all of these failures, both my own and many others posting here. These saws run ok for what they are but are basically a throw away saw. Extra care must be taken when working on them that other saws do not require.
If you use rope, you're likely to not get the piston in the right position and the rod will bend. It's only made of a piece of stamped sheet metal.
Do not use a screw in piston stop. It will go right through the paper thin piston crown.
Do not use an impact gun. You will either sheer the flywheel key or break the clutch spider.
Yes, I have seen all of these failures, both my own and many others posting here. These saws run ok for what they are but are basically a throw away saw. Extra care must be taken when working on them that other saws do not require.
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Use an impact gun or a drill driver with impact action.
Forget the piston stop.
Forget the piston stop.
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Have worked on them since Stihl started making them, have never damaged any of them.
