plan on building a log splitter with a 4 or 6 way wedge i will be splitting most red and white oak and sometimes hickory for the most part the trees are real straight and clear with occasional double heart chunk. here is what im thinking i need but have never built or even used one of these, but want to build one and retire the splitting hammer. im thinking a 5x24 double acting ram with 2inch rod and 3500max psi, 16gpm 2 stage pump. would a 4 inch cylinder work or do i need the 5 inch? also what hp engine would i need to run the pump? i will have more questions but we will start with this first to get me started.
need help with what to order for my log splitter im building
- Thread starter wlf89
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opcorn:palmrose2
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I've split a lot of wood with a 4" cylinder. My engine is over sized for the pump and it never grunts. The over sized engine let me adjust the second stage of my pump quite high. A 5" cylinder will give you 50% more power than mine and be about the same speed with your 16 gpm pump. Mine is plenty fast enough and I have a slip on 4-way that I rarely use. I can only use it on straight wood and most of my fuel comes from tops left over from logging operations. Full of knots, crotches, and nasty grain, but free hard maple and ash is hard to turn down.
Honestly, I would be willing to bet that a 5" cylinder splitter cost at least 50% more to build than a 4" cylinder splitter once you take in to account larger hoses, tank, cyl, beam, pump, engine.
I'm in the process of building a 4" splitter now, but the beam will withstand the stress of a 5" if someone wanted to put one on later. Of course they would also need a larger engine, hoses, and pump if they wanted to have the same cycle time.
Honestly, I would be willing to bet that a 5" cylinder splitter cost at least 50% more to build than a 4" cylinder splitter once you take in to account larger hoses, tank, cyl, beam, pump, engine.
I'm in the process of building a 4" splitter now, but the beam will withstand the stress of a 5" if someone wanted to put one on later. Of course they would also need a larger engine, hoses, and pump if they wanted to have the same cycle time.
hedge hog
ArboristSite Guru
hedge hog
ArboristSite Guru
You will need bigger than a 2" rod
To have any kind of cycle time
Bigger the rod faster the return
To have any kind of cycle time
Bigger the rod faster the return
On large dia WhiteOak, The 4in cylinder will work just fine for single splits. Will work pretty well with a 4way. If you plan on a 6way, I would go with the 5in cylinder. I use a 6way and 5in cylinder and altho I have never stopped it, It has had to really grunt a few time.
A 5in cylinder with more than a 2in shaft will be very expensive, while NorthernTool has a 5x24x2 for about $300. If you buy the Northerntool cylinder, be sure to drill out the ports before mounting it on the Hbeam. For some reason, their 5in bore cyl has 3/4 pipe ports, but has a 3/8 hole inside. Dumb design if you ask me, why weld on 3/4 ports when the tube only has a 3/8 hole. The larger shaft will speed up the retraction speed of the cylinder, but I would just go with a 22gpm pump and it will be plenty fast enough. Be careful when choosing a control valve, some only have 1/2in work ports, but you can find them with 3/4 work ports. The smaller port ones are only rated for 20gpm. Even if your pump is only 16gpm, you will have more oil flow going back to the tank because of the size of the shaft when you retract the cylinder. Get the valve rated for 25gpm, not that much price difference.
I also echo the statement about getting a oversize engine. When the pump has to deliver 3000 psi, it will bog down the recommended engine size for the pump you choose. This slows down the splitting action, even if it doesnt stall the engine. Going one or two hp bigger than recommended will help the engine maintain rpms and pump flow. I have a 28gpm two stage pump 5inbore cyl, and a 25hp engine. Motor never bogs and cylinder never slows. Splitting 6ways, I can split a cord of wood in about 15minutes and make 5 guys tongue's hang out doing it. Fast cycle times are wasted when its just me doing the loading and splitting.
Another thing to consider is you Hbeam. It takes a lot of metal if your going to do 6way splits. I wouldnt even consider anything less than a w6x6 hbeam. Look for a w8x8, with 1/2in flanges and web. Plan on reinforcing the web and flange with 1/2in plate. I have a w6x6 with 1/2 plate onn the flange and both sides of the web plated with 5/8 plate and boxed at the wedge with 6in channel. That 5in cylinder will bow and twist the Hbeam. I use a 24in tall wedge which puts extra stress on the Hbeam, but it doesnt leave a 30in dia round half split and hinged on top of the wedge.
A 5in cylinder with more than a 2in shaft will be very expensive, while NorthernTool has a 5x24x2 for about $300. If you buy the Northerntool cylinder, be sure to drill out the ports before mounting it on the Hbeam. For some reason, their 5in bore cyl has 3/4 pipe ports, but has a 3/8 hole inside. Dumb design if you ask me, why weld on 3/4 ports when the tube only has a 3/8 hole. The larger shaft will speed up the retraction speed of the cylinder, but I would just go with a 22gpm pump and it will be plenty fast enough. Be careful when choosing a control valve, some only have 1/2in work ports, but you can find them with 3/4 work ports. The smaller port ones are only rated for 20gpm. Even if your pump is only 16gpm, you will have more oil flow going back to the tank because of the size of the shaft when you retract the cylinder. Get the valve rated for 25gpm, not that much price difference.
I also echo the statement about getting a oversize engine. When the pump has to deliver 3000 psi, it will bog down the recommended engine size for the pump you choose. This slows down the splitting action, even if it doesnt stall the engine. Going one or two hp bigger than recommended will help the engine maintain rpms and pump flow. I have a 28gpm two stage pump 5inbore cyl, and a 25hp engine. Motor never bogs and cylinder never slows. Splitting 6ways, I can split a cord of wood in about 15minutes and make 5 guys tongue's hang out doing it. Fast cycle times are wasted when its just me doing the loading and splitting.
Another thing to consider is you Hbeam. It takes a lot of metal if your going to do 6way splits. I wouldnt even consider anything less than a w6x6 hbeam. Look for a w8x8, with 1/2in flanges and web. Plan on reinforcing the web and flange with 1/2in plate. I have a w6x6 with 1/2 plate onn the flange and both sides of the web plated with 5/8 plate and boxed at the wedge with 6in channel. That 5in cylinder will bow and twist the Hbeam. I use a 24in tall wedge which puts extra stress on the Hbeam, but it doesnt leave a 30in dia round half split and hinged on top of the wedge.
Welcome to AS, don't take anything here to seriously ever, and get some thick skin. Before we get to the splitter questions there some thing we need to know about you firstly, what color/kind of saw or saws to you own pictures a must, what kind of oil and what ratio do you use? Where is your avatar picture it is a must, according to some if you to be taken seriously here . And you have to send everyone a piece of your wood for inspection before we can proceed any further
There are a lot of thread here on splitter builds a lot of them. I would first figure out your budget. Can you weld, good or know some on who can? most of the joints on a splitter an ok welder will get by on. Best to have your **** together when welding your wedge on and when welding your cylinder anchor point on, just saying, if not it usally goes bad quick fast and in a hurry, with bad things happening quicker. Once those are figured out its a lot easier to move forward. do you want a stationary machine stays on your property or a mobile on-Highway towable? tow from both ends (to me this is a no brainer, but a choice none the less). Log lift? Splitter grate? wedge on beam? or wedge on cylinder? adjustable 4-6way? and if so is this on the same valve as other stuff or a 2,3 valve setup if so the other valves need to be power beyond capable or this makes for a another set of problems. Auto cycle valve?
When I finish my splitter (if ever acoording to my wife.) I used a B&S 25 hp motor off of a riding mower, 22gpm Haldex pump, 5" 2.25 rod with a bypass/return valve rated a 55gpm and 3/4 hyd hoses. I still have to get a valve for it I picked up the wrong one, no power beyond. I should have a pretty quick machine, when and if I ever get it done, I think.
There are a lot of thread here on splitter builds a lot of them. I would first figure out your budget. Can you weld, good or know some on who can? most of the joints on a splitter an ok welder will get by on. Best to have your **** together when welding your wedge on and when welding your cylinder anchor point on, just saying, if not it usally goes bad quick fast and in a hurry, with bad things happening quicker. Once those are figured out its a lot easier to move forward. do you want a stationary machine stays on your property or a mobile on-Highway towable? tow from both ends (to me this is a no brainer, but a choice none the less). Log lift? Splitter grate? wedge on beam? or wedge on cylinder? adjustable 4-6way? and if so is this on the same valve as other stuff or a 2,3 valve setup if so the other valves need to be power beyond capable or this makes for a another set of problems. Auto cycle valve?
When I finish my splitter (if ever acoording to my wife.) I used a B&S 25 hp motor off of a riding mower, 22gpm Haldex pump, 5" 2.25 rod with a bypass/return valve rated a 55gpm and 3/4 hyd hoses. I still have to get a valve for it I picked up the wrong one, no power beyond. I should have a pretty quick machine, when and if I ever get it done, I think.
iowa
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm in the process of building a splitter myself and have built a couple others.
IMO 5" cylinder is over kill. I went with a 4" and 2" rod. You can go 4.5" cylinder?
Some things you will need.
8hp engine, pump mount, and a 3 piece love joy set.
You never stated if you are having a log lift or not. So you will need a single spool valve with detent if you are only running one cylider. 2 Spool valve if you are using 2 cylinders.
Pressure gauge, lots of hydraulic fittings.
Hydraulic tank, with filter.
IMO 5" cylinder is over kill. I went with a 4" and 2" rod. You can go 4.5" cylinder?
Some things you will need.
8hp engine, pump mount, and a 3 piece love joy set.
You never stated if you are having a log lift or not. So you will need a single spool valve with detent if you are only running one cylider. 2 Spool valve if you are using 2 cylinders.
Pressure gauge, lots of hydraulic fittings.
Hydraulic tank, with filter.
If you are dead set on using 4 to 6 way wedge, use at least a 5 inch cylinder. You are dealing with a LOT of surface area splitting with a multiple edge wedge and I'd also suggest offsetting the edges on it. I made up a 4 way for mine but use it very little. I am not blessed with mostly straight trees and do whatever falls/dies so I get a lot of nasties.
Try to find a cylinder with 3/4 ports so you have the OPTION to go with a bigger pump if down the road you want to improve the cycle time. 16gpm pump on a 5 inch will be pretty slow.
Unless you have a bunch of this stuff laying around or want features not offered, you WILL be money ahead to just buy one. Just being the voice of reality here. It's pretty darn hard to beat the value of a 28 ton Speeco/DHT for the average user. Buying the pieces would run you way more just buying the unit outright. That doesn't even include you time and tools needed.
Have you used 4 or 6 way? Might want to consider trying one, renting or finding someone close, before committing to it.
Try to find a cylinder with 3/4 ports so you have the OPTION to go with a bigger pump if down the road you want to improve the cycle time. 16gpm pump on a 5 inch will be pretty slow.
Unless you have a bunch of this stuff laying around or want features not offered, you WILL be money ahead to just buy one. Just being the voice of reality here. It's pretty darn hard to beat the value of a 28 ton Speeco/DHT for the average user. Buying the pieces would run you way more just buying the unit outright. That doesn't even include you time and tools needed.
Have you used 4 or 6 way? Might want to consider trying one, renting or finding someone close, before committing to it.
5 inch will get you 35 tons. Should be ok for a six-way.
16gpm minimum. If you oversize the engine to 11or 13hp you can jack up the pressure so it shifts to second speed at a higher pressure and you have the power to not stall. This will help makeup some time. If you can get a big enough engine 22gpm two stage pump would be best.
Make sure the hydro reservoir is large enough capacity to have cooling so they system doesn't get too hot. I forget the rule of thumb... 1 gallon fluid for every two gpm or something. More surface area on the tank the better.
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16gpm minimum. If you oversize the engine to 11or 13hp you can jack up the pressure so it shifts to second speed at a higher pressure and you have the power to not stall. This will help makeup some time. If you can get a big enough engine 22gpm two stage pump would be best.
Make sure the hydro reservoir is large enough capacity to have cooling so they system doesn't get too hot. I forget the rule of thumb... 1 gallon fluid for every two gpm or something. More surface area on the tank the better.
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Do your self a favor and read as many threads as you can before you start on here & a welding site depending on your skill for design ideals if nothing else. For what its worth here are few I would do over on mine.
Mine is 5" 16gpm 10hp 6x6 beam plated w/1/2" The 5" 16 gpm has plenty of power for a 1 way wedge but is painfully SLOW . I wish I had went with at least 22gpm 13hp, 3/4 lines to valve & cylinder, heavy 8x8, plate the top with 1/2"x8 plate. since you want a 4/6way a adjustable or removable is a must you.
I am going to make another suggestion. If you go with a 4 or 6way, you might consider finding a used conveyor. I know from experience with my 6way, it only takes a few minutes and I have to stop and clear splits. Last year I discovered that my dump trailer would just slip under my wedge. I back the trailer up to the splitter and let the splitting action just push the splits into the back of the trailer. Works pretty good since my wood shed is big enough to back the trailer in and dump the load. actually, I just raise the bed enough to keep the wood sliding toward the end of the trailer and stack as I unload. backing under the splitter with the trailer eliminates me having to handle the splits to load or move them out of the way.
Oliver1655
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here are a PDF file which talks about the components/parts needed to build a hydraulic splitter.
Oliver1655
Addicted to ArboristSite
Then to help you decide what design you wish to build, take a look at these PDFs.
Great info. Thinking about a new cylinder and valve for our splitter.
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