New Husqvarna burned up using factory premix
- Thread starter Warddc
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But that's poison. The Husky people drink their stuff.
Looks like I will buy Stihl mix in the future then
Stihl mix costs 1$ more a quart, but I'd pay that for piece of mind over saw repairs and considering the (likely) year of sitting in my trunk un opened...
Stihl guys drink the kool-aidBut that's poison. The Husky people drink their stuff.
Good to know.
I have blew up a few zero turn mowers, and I never knew this... I've always ran at 3/4 throttle.
I'm gonna play with this... curious.
Makes sense, I know my old pickup (std) would overheat going up a steep grade if I didn't downshift enough... plenty of power in even top gear & with loads of power to spare (440ci V8 dodge- motor swapped from junk RV).
It normally ran cool, until I hit some longer steeper passes in the Rockys and it got hot for the first time in my ownership... pop it down a gear and let the engine breath an no issues at all. Even pulling a load.
I guess Fuel and air going through the inside of the motor have a big cooling effect too, as does the lower heat soak time when under fire in the cylinder stroke due to the quicker moving pistons at that RPM...
Huskybill
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I sold a 85/125 cr husky bike. I rode it for months no problems. The kid who purchased it mixed the two stroke fuel by the color. I didn’t know he didn’t have a ratio cup. The next day he was pushing it after he straight gassed it.
RED-85-Z51
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More rpms also turns the water pump faster as well as the fan. The other result as you mentioned was less dwell time during the combustion stroke...albeit with more combustion strokes per second. You also get cylinder scavenging at higher rpms.
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Huskybill
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My co worker since 1976 would run his 55 husky rancher half throttle. I explained him how he’s hurting the engine. These are meant to run wot.
So the cooling fan cools the engine more.
My dad worked with his dad during the war. We’re close like brothers.
So the cooling fan cools the engine more.
My dad worked with his dad during the war. We’re close like brothers.
Huskybill
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I never had any problems using the first Husqvarna Xp two stroke oil at 38:1 ratio. I adjusted the carbs to this mix. This was with my first 80’s husky saws. Now with my newer 385 xp and 575 I been using the 50:1 husky pre mix and adding some more husky xp+ oil to the premix. There’s been a few problems with this pre mix fuel. It’s convient using the pre canned mix when I don’t need 2.5/5 gallons of mix. Could the 50:1 ratio be wrong? I wonder if I should return to the Xp oil?
The only way to know what you have is to mix it yourself. 50:1 with synthetic oil and you can be confident when you gas up. If for some reason you want to carry a small amount in a metal can get yourself a MSR fuel bottle and fill it as needed. I have two of them that I have mounted on one of my panniers when I do an adventure ride. Thousands of miles of rough terrain and I’ve never had a leak. If they can hold tight under those conditions they can certainly sit in your car even in extreme heat without fear of leaking. A lot cheaper too then buying the canned fuel.
I carry camp fuel in one and gas in the other. It’s a rough ride back there but never a failure. One of them is about 35 years old and the other is about 20.
SteveSr
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Check the cans before your buy. Packaging regs may vary from country to country, i.e. U.S. vs. AU. I have never seen a oval Moto-Mix can in the U.S. THe few Moto-Mix cans that I have seen have not been tamper sealed.Looks like I will buy Stihl mix in the future then
Stihl mix costs 1$ more a quart, but I'd pay that for piece of mind over saw repairs and considering the (likely) year of sitting in my trunk un opened...
I cracked open a Stihl motomix can at the dealership so I could take a whiff and see what color it was. Definitely no seal.
Opening the can reduced the shelf life from a claimed 10 years to 2 years. I can’t imagine what kind of snake oil it has in it that would make gas last 10 years. It’s manufactured by Halterman Solutions whoever that is. It is claimed to be ethanol free so if you want to leave fuel in your equipment for a long time and can’t get ethanol free gas in your area it might be worth considering. Of course there may be similar products that are better or at least equivalent for less money. I am lucky to live where I can get ethanol free gas in 87,89,and 93 octane. 87 at 50:1 with synthetic oil and my two stroke bikes and power equipment are very happy.
He could do better with Amsoil run it 100:1
I love people that run Amsoil at 100:1, floods the market with some good parts saws!
Couple misconceptions in this post.
Gas goes bad in two ways.
1. The lighter end hydrocarbons evaporate off, leaving the heavier stuff behind. These lighter end hydrocarbons also are the main octane components, and have the highest vapor pressure. This means they're most likely to escape, and you get reduced octane fairly quickly, even if the fuel will still burn. This can mostly be mitigated with a tightly sealed metal barrier can, which is exactly what it comes in. I did let out a tiny bit of those lighter end hydrocarbons, I may have reduced the shelf life by five minutes. Certainly not 8 years.
2. Gasoline's different compounds separate out and recombine into other compounds, the end of which is no longer gasoline. Think of it like milk souring, it's going to happen no matter how tightly sealed the milk carton is. This is the main issue we have with gasoline going bad and is hugely worse with ethanol fuel, although it effects non-ethanol pump gas as well.
This is where Motomix, Trufuel, etc really shine. They're not just non-ethanol gasoline, they're an alkylate instead of a distillate like gasoline a completely different formulation which doesn't experience the separation and recombination issues of pump fuel. They smell more like carb cleaner than gasoline.
No snake oil.
Interesting. But I don’t see how the octane level would be reduced over time. I would have guessed that it would increase over time making the fuel less volatile. Certainly not what you want when you’re already starting with 92 octane in the product being discussed.
The manufacturer claim is 10 years sealed. 2 years once opened:
“STIHL MotoMix has a 2-year shelf life once it's opened, and 10 years unopened. Also, no mixing is required as MotoMix is a 92 octane premium fuel 50:1 pre-mix! If it is a chain saw you're using, ensure that you have filled the bar oil tank with bar oil.”
The higher vapor pressure/more prone to evaporate components of gasoline are also the higher octane components. When they go, they leave behind the lower octane components, hence the octane goes down.
I don't buy Stihl's claim on an 8 year reduction just for cracking open the can. Marketing wanketeering =/= reality. If I'd had to destroy a seal in the process, sure, but I didn't. As I said, maybe 5 minutes reduction. If anyone had complained enough, I was prepared to buy the can of fuel.
If it concerns you, that's yet another reason to buy cans in sealed cases only. No goobers like me running around opening cans to see what's inside and destroying 8 years of storage time.
I don't buy Stihl's claim on an 8 year reduction just for cracking open the can. Marketing wanketeering =/= reality. If I'd had to destroy a seal in the process, sure, but I didn't. As I said, maybe 5 minutes reduction. If anyone had complained enough, I was prepared to buy the can of fuel.
If it concerns you, that's yet another reason to buy cans in sealed cases only. No goobers like me running around opening cans to see what's inside and destroying 8 years of storage time.
It doesn’t bother me at all. I would never buy any of these products anyway. You seem more knowledgeable than me by far but I am not sure I understand the reduction in octane level going down over time. I’ve always assumed that over time fuel would become less volatile instead of more volatile. Isn’t the octane rating simply a measurement of a fuel’s volatility with higher numbered rating being less volatile? Are you implying that over time 93 octane will eventually be as volatile as 87? I’m not sure I could be convinced of that but maybe I’ll learn something new today.
Octane rating is resistance to ignition when exposed to temperature and pressure. The higher the octane, the higher the resistance to ignition when being compressed by a piston in a cylinder. You want that mixture to burn at exactly the right moment, controlled by the spark plug, not whenever it feels like because it got too warm.
Volatility is how easily a substance evaporates. That's it.
Octane rating and volatility have nothing to do with each other, other than the more volatile components also happen to be the ones with more octane. You ever hear of someone leaving regular 87 grade out until the volatile compounds evaporate away, so now they have 92 octane left? No, because that's not how it works. Diesel fuel isn't very volatile at all compared to gasoline but it's octane number is only ~20 or so.
Volatility is how easily a substance evaporates. That's it.
Octane rating and volatility have nothing to do with each other, other than the more volatile components also happen to be the ones with more octane. You ever hear of someone leaving regular 87 grade out until the volatile compounds evaporate away, so now they have 92 octane left? No, because that's not how it works. Diesel fuel isn't very volatile at all compared to gasoline but it's octane number is only ~20 or so.
