Premix fuel OK to use?

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Ocala

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Hi everyone, I have a question about fuel.

I started several years ago going with only premix cans of fuel for any two stroke equipment that I have. I use only non ethanol gas in any 4 stroke equipment.

So yesterday I was picking up a saw from a guy who builds and repairs them. In this case, a Stihl 066 with a brand new Meteor cylinder and piston. He asked me what fuel I used in the saw I was leaving with him for some work, and I told him I use the Husky or Stihl premix interchangeably, with .6 ounces of Stihl oil added per gallon to bring the mixture oil ratio up to 40:1 for my older saws, and run it at 50:1 for newer stuff.

He said he would never use the Husky premix, only will use Stihl oil in a Stihl saw, and mixes it with regular 87 octane gas (yes, with ethanol, I asked him). He said it would never spend enough time in a saw for the ethanol to make a difference. I think it would still be deteriorating the seals... No question this man knows a lot more about saws than I do, but I would never put ethanol fuel in anything but my wife's truck lol. Mine uses diesel so I don't have to worry about it.

I have seen what ethanol fuel did to a friends generator after sitting in it for a year though...

Admittedly, I'm a "weekend warrior" when it comes to my tree work, so I'm not running a crew that's burning gas all day long. If I was I would probably use the highest octane non ethanol and add the proper amount of Stihl oil to it. I also have a few Husqvarna saws as well.

I really like the fact that it has a long shelf life so it's there when you need it.

So my question is, other than the cost, is there anything not to like about Husqvarna or Stihl premix fuel in cans?

Thanks as always
 
The manufacturer mix oils are adequate at best. I wouldn’t run Stihl or husky oil, even if it were free. That’s the only reason I don’t run their premixed fuel. Other than that it’s great for people who don’t run their equipment on a daily basis. No ethanol = no problems.
 
Any of the alkylate fuels are fine. The oil in premix, on the other hand, can be garbage.

Stihl uses their HP Ultra Jaso FB junk, I wouldn't use it in anything, if given the choice.

Husky uses their XP+, which is JASO FD. It'll be fine. I've run gallons of Tru Fuel with no issues, and I'd trust any of the akylate fuels mixed with a JASO FD oil.

Are you tuning your saw for the fuel you're using? I'm guessing not, if your saw ate a P&C. Learn to tune your saw, don't run a JASO FD oil, whether rolling your own or premix, and cut wood.
 
.6 isn’t enough oil per gallon. 2.6 is 50:1 or 3.2 for 40:1. Premix gas is a waste of money if you have e free fuel available. Stihl premix is good but expensive, No experience with the husky stuff.
.6 is ADDED to the 50:1 PREMIX.

3.2 - 2.6 = .6 :)

The Husky fuel is only slightly cheaper than the Stihl premix. I really don’t have any idea if one’s any better than the other.

I agree it’s very expensive, I just don’t use enough of it to really be an issue… although I will say the 066 is a THIRSTY SAW 😂
 
Any of the alkylate fuels are fine. The oil in premix, on the other hand, can be garbage.

Stihl uses their HP Ultra Jaso FB junk, I wouldn't use it in anything, if given the choice.

Husky uses their XP+, which is JASO FD. It'll be fine. I've run gallons of Tru Fuel with no issues, and I'd trust any of the akylate fuels mixed with a JASO FD oil.

Are you tuning your saw for the fuel you're using? I'm guessing not, if your saw ate a P&C. Learn to tune your saw, don't run a JASO FD oil, whether rolling your own or premix, and cut wood.
I didn’t burn the P&C, I just bought a saw that had just had one installed by the guy that builds and repairs them.

All OEM except the P&C so I figured I’d give it a try.

The 044 that I got recently WAS tuned for 40:1, that’s the only way I even knew that tuning to oil ratio was possible. :)
A44A82C1-DAC3-41B6-B71E-C676D1F34307.jpeg13B8E285-DBA3-4D06-9DD5-FB617F5BD5DA.jpeg
 
Hi everyone, I have a question about fuel.

I started several years ago going with only premix cans of fuel for any two stroke equipment that I have. I use only non ethanol gas in any 4 stroke equipment.

So yesterday I was picking up a saw from a guy who builds and repairs them. In this case, a Stihl 066 with a brand new Meteor cylinder and piston. He asked me what fuel I used in the saw I was leaving with him for some work, and I told him I use the Husky or Stihl premix interchangeably, with .6 ounces of Stihl oil added per gallon to bring the mixture oil ratio up to 40:1 for my older saws, and run it at 50:1 for newer stuff.

He said he would never use the Husky premix, only will use Stihl oil in a Stihl saw, and mixes it with regular 87 octane gas (yes, with ethanol, I asked him). He said it would never spend enough time in a saw for the ethanol to make a difference. I think it would still be deteriorating the seals... No question this man knows a lot more about saws than I do, but I would never put ethanol fuel in anything but my wife's truck lol. Mine uses diesel so I don't have to worry about it.

I have seen what ethanol fuel did to a friends generator after sitting in it for a year though...

Admittedly, I'm a "weekend warrior" when it comes to my tree work, so I'm not running a crew that's burning gas all day long. If I was I would probably use the highest octane non ethanol and add the proper amount of Stihl oil to it. I also have a few Husqvarna saws as well.

I really like the fact that it has a long shelf life so it's there when you need it.

So my question is, other than the cost, is there anything not to like about Husqvarna or Stihl premix fuel in cans?

Thanks as always
"and mixes it with regular 87 octane gas" Interesting, since Stihl recommends 89 octane. Ethanol won't hurt if you run it frequently and don't store for long periods - in the saw or in the can. Regardless of what ratio you use, learn to hear what a properly tuned saw should sound like in and out of the cut.
 
I use the stihl mix exclusively. I add .60 of an oz too for my old saws.

I also just use stihl oil.

Never a problem. I do it because I know the mix is at least 50:1 if my dad uses stuff. He knows just to grab the stihl fuel can. It's still cheaper than buying a new saw.
 
I use e free mixed with good oil. Not saying what, to keep your fuel thread from turning into an oil thread. If you really want to know you can pm me. If I were going to use canned fuel, I would buy the straight fuel and mix my own oil to the ratio I wanted. Just my humble opinion. Canned fuel does have it's place.
 
So Lets break this down as there is multiple pieces of information flying around here:
He said he would never use the Husky premix, only will use Stihl oil in a Stihl saw, and mixes it with regular 87 octane gas (yes, with ethanol, I asked him). He said it would never spend enough time in a saw for the ethanol to make a difference. I think it would still be deteriorating the seals... No question this man knows a lot more about saws than I do, but I would never put ethanol fuel in anything but my wife's truck lol. Mine uses diesel so I don't have to worry about it.
WHY?!?!?! Why would he NOT use Husky Premix? Was Husky premix ONLY designed for Husqvarna Chainsaws? Does Husqvarna have some sort of proprietary Piston/Cylinder/Premix equation that will cause failure if interchanged? The answer is no, that's plain silly.

The downfall to ethanol fuel is it's hygroscopic, meaning its absorbs water from the atmosphere. its not a shark, its doesn't "eat seals", its simply does not store well. TRILLIONS of successful hours have been ran on chainsaws with ethanol pump gas fuel in them.

When he says "it would never spend enough time in a saw to make a difference"...He is right...IF he is right. Is the fuel spending time in the saw? if your ripping cord wood all day that saw is getting fueled 4-5 times during the day, is the fuel spending much time in the saw? Or is it a cut a tree and to the shed it goes type of scenario?

Admittedly, I'm a "weekend warrior" when it comes to my tree work, so I'm not running a crew that's burning gas all day long. If I was I would probably use the highest octane non ethanol and add the proper amount of Stihl oil to it. I also have a few Husqvarna saws as well.
So i think you need to decide what your fuel plan should be.
Constant use(saw does not spend time in storage) = pump gas
Occasional use(stored frequently) = Canned or ethanol free

Unless your saw is "built"(optimized compression) 87 will work 100% fine. If you are going to sleep better spending another 2$ to get 93, go ahead. its not going to "hurt anything"(expect for another forum members feelings)

Oil: wont even go down this path, run what's been working for you.
People obsess over FB, FD, most don't even know what it actually stands for.
These are chainsaws, not a 10,000$ built SX300 racebike
 
Any of the saw branded fuels will be fine. Watch the off brands. There has been some issues with those.
89 octane is minimum. Ethanol is not an issue UNLESS your fuel will be sitting. All mixed fuel is garbage in 90 days in the saw. Premix last longer in a SEALED container only.
Best advice, use your fuel up in 90 days. Older fuel is the crap shoot.
 
I go through a lot of non ethanol fuel a year for mowing. So it’s much easier to grab a jerry can and mix my own. I’ve got 8-10 Jerry cans full at any one time.
 
I am a gold certified Stihl technician.
Pump gas contains additives (Ethanol, Olefins, Alkanes and Aromatic) and is formulated to be nice to the environment and the market for this fuel is automobiles with fuel injected engines which have oxygen sensors, computers and knock sensors to make mixture and timing adjustments in milliseconds for efficient ignition.

Stihl recommends buying only a 30 supply of fuel of an octane > 89, a maximum of 10% ethanol from a name brand supplier. The reason to only buy a 30 day supply has to do with the olefins and aromatics that make up much of the volume of pump gas. These molecules will burn and supply energy in the combustion process along with the hydrocarbon chains we looked at earlier. The straight hydrocarbon chains are referred to as alkanes and are more stable than the olefins and aromatics.

The problems come when fuel sits for a period of time, especially if the oxygen in the air can come into contact with the fuel. These molecules will oxidize and break down, and form other compounds that lead to the formation of what is commonly referred to as “gum” or “varnish” due to the thick, sticky nature of it’s appearance. The carburetor on any small engine is vented to atmosphere so if it sits with fuel in the carb it is very likely this process may happen over time.

Engineered fuel, Stihl, Husky, VP etc. is formulated exclusively for outdoor power equipment. The stated shelf life of this fuel is 2 years in most cases. So if you an infrequent use of your equipment you may want to consider using an engineered fuel.

Personally I purchase E Free fuel with an octane of 93 or greater and add Sta-Bil to the fuel at the pump. I also run Stihl HP Ultra for my oil.
 
I would avoid Stihl fuel like they plague, but only because it uses Ultra oil, which is garbage.
I would have non-issue running Huskyboil or Husky canned fuel.
The saw builder is clueless about fuel and oil, which unfortunately is typical.

I've been running motomix for about 8 years in all my saw. I have never had a fuel or oil issue. Not one.

When does the Stihl Ultra finally blow up a saw?
 
I am a gold certified Stihl technician.
Pump gas contains additives (Ethanol, Olefins, Alkanes and Aromatic) and is formulated to be nice to the environment and the market for this fuel is automobiles with fuel injected engines which have oxygen sensors, computers and knock sensors to make mixture and timing adjustments in milliseconds for efficient ignition.

Stihl recommends buying only a 30 supply of fuel of an octane > 89, a maximum of 10% ethanol from a name brand supplier. The reason to only buy a 30 day supply has to do with the olefins and aromatics that make up much of the volume of pump gas. These molecules will burn and supply energy in the combustion process along with the hydrocarbon chains we looked at earlier. The straight hydrocarbon chains are referred to as alkanes and are more stable than the olefins and aromatics.

The problems come when fuel sits for a period of time, especially if the oxygen in the air can come into contact with the fuel. These molecules will oxidize and break down, and form other compounds that lead to the formation of what is commonly referred to as “gum” or “varnish” due to the thick, sticky nature of it’s appearance. The carburetor on any small engine is vented to atmosphere so if it sits with fuel in the carb it is very likely this process may happen over time.

Engineered fuel, Stihl, Husky, VP etc. is formulated exclusively for outdoor power equipment. The stated shelf life of this fuel is 2 years in most cases. So if you an infrequent use of your equipment you may want to consider using an engineered fuel.

Personally I purchase E Free fuel with an octane of 93 or greater and add Sta-Bil to the fuel at the pump. I also run Stihl HP Ultra for my oil.
Pump gas doesn't contain much if any olefins or aromatics. In addition aromatics are very stable by virtue of their ring structure and alkanes are the opposite. I know this because I make gasoline for a living.
Whomever told you this at Stihl school needs to do a little better research.
 

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