Canned pre-mix fuel

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Eman85

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jan 20, 2023
Messages
19
Reaction score
16
Location
Rogersville,TN
Is there any magic in the cans? I hear people carry on about using the can like it's something you can't duplicate. I've never used the canned fuel always mixed my own. I understand the non-ethanol higher octane part but that's readily available and I have used Stihl and Echo oils.
 
Canned premix is alkylate, very stable compared to even non ethanol pump gas.

I've used TruFuel for years with no issues. Chose TruFuel because it's available in 40:1 ratio, uses JADO FD oil, and costs the least.
IDK if its my regions distribution, manufacturer for tru fuel or the heat/humidity but that stuff causes more fuel issues than stale gas down here. It's so bad here the first thing I do is look at the fuel then dump it out and refill with my mix and crank, if its pink/red fuel from a can its a 75% chance it will fire up and run without actual repairs.
 
IDK if its my regions distribution, manufacturer for tru fuel or the heat/humidity but that stuff causes more fuel issues than stale gas down here. It's so bad here the first thing I do is look at the fuel then dump it out and refill with my mix and crank, if its pink/red fuel from a can its a 75% chance it will fire up and run without actual repairs.
Heat and humidity i imagine VP is a good one to use because it actually sold by the gallon instead of a little less like everyone else.
 
IDK if its my regions distribution, manufacturer for tru fuel or the heat/humidity but that stuff causes more fuel issues than stale gas down here. It's so bad here the first thing I do is look at the fuel then dump it out and refill with my mix and crank, if its pink/red fuel from a can its a 75% chance it will fire up and run without actual repairs.

Fuel in general seems to be area specific.

Canned fuel does go bad eventually, and have a lifespan. I just rotated my stock recently, smelled noticably different than when fresh. Check your date codes and rotate your fuel, don't just assume canned fuel will be good forever.

TruFuel was the first canned fuel that got popular here, so would also be the first one to start going bad and showing up in shops.
 
Fuel in general seems to be area specific.

Canned fuel does go bad eventually, and have a lifespan. I just rotated my stock recently, smelled noticably different than when fresh. Check your date codes and rotate your fuel, don't just assume canned fuel will be good forever.

TruFuel was the first canned fuel that got popular here, so would also be the first one to start going bad and showing up in shops.
Fresh cans, pour it in and the equipment runs noticeably lower rpm, let it sit a week+ and it refuses to start and the whole can is bad. It's a real issue that a few shops are making bank off by charging a hr to dump out and refill.
 
Its alkylate. I use it in machines that only get used infrequently. As a consequence, Ive noticed how much easier machines are to start and they require less maintenance of spark plugs and carbs. Yes its more expensive, but you only need to save one repair bill to justify the cost.
 
Is there any magic in the cans? I hear people carry on about using the can like it's something you can't duplicate. I've never used the canned fuel always mixed my own. I understand the non-ethanol higher octane part but that's readily available and I have used Stihl and Echo oils.
The word alkylate would be a suitable search term. The best folks to respond to your thread probably have done so to similar ones already.

The can could be some of the magic.

As to the spark plug replacement, and I mix my own, it seems more machine related as most still have the original one.

As for knowing about the octane of the mix in the can and if it compares to the mix of the pump fuel before the addition of oil at say a fat 50 to one oil I am kind of curious about that.
 
Ethanol free is not available in many places, like here in the UK. Watch out with the pumps that have a button to select which fuel is pumped - the hose is primed and will contain whatever the previous person bought. But its not just the ethanol, modern fuels just are not what they used to be - something to do with the additives nor do they have a long shelf life.

Here in the UK, I have experience of 50:1 Aspen, Stihl and Husqvarna brand alkylates and the starting, cleanliness and storage has been way better than 10% ethanol fuel mixed myself. Don't get me wrong I do so much grass cutting in the summer with the brushcutter, I still use pump fuel for this, but I have to overhaul the carb and replace the plugs every year.
 
Watch out with the pumps that have a button to select which fuel is pumped - the hose is primed and will contain whatever the previous person bought
I run the first half gallon, or so, into my car, then fill the 2-cycle can (with mix oil already inside, so I don’t straight gas my stuff!).

Because I may not use use everything up, I have a large, manila, shipping tag attached to the can with the pimp date. After 30 days, that gets mixed in with the vehicle fuel too.

Philbert
 
Fresh cans, pour it in and the equipment runs noticeably lower rpm, let it sit a week+ and it refuses to start and the whole can is bad. It's a real issue that a few shops are making bank off by charging a hr to dump out and refill.

That hasn't been my experience, but I'll definitely keep an eye on it.

By "fresh cans" do you mean just unopened, or actually fresh? They can be unopened, and still 5+ years old. There's a date code on the top of the cans.
 
Ethanol free is not available in many places, like here in the UK. Watch out with the pumps that have a button to select which fuel is pumped - the hose is primed and will contain whatever the previous person bought. But its not just the ethanol, modern fuels just are not what they used to be - something to do with the additives nor do they have a long shelf life.

Here in the UK, I have experience of 50:1 Aspen, Stihl and Husqvarna brand alkylates and the starting, cleanliness and storage has been way better than 10% ethanol fuel mixed myself. Don't get me wrong I do so much grass cutting in the summer with the brushcutter, I still use pump fuel for this, but I have to overhaul the carb and replace the plugs every year.
Have you tried going to a local airport and getting 100LL from the pump? I would also not be above getting 93+ octane from the pump then add water until the ethanol becomes water saturated falling to the bottom of the tank allowing easy draining leaving pure fuel behind.
That hasn't been my experience, but I'll definitely keep an eye on it.

By "fresh cans" do you mean just unopened, or actually fresh? They can be unopened, and still 5+ years old. There's a date code on the top of the cans.
As in freshly delivered to a store with a high volume of sales. Thats why you see me telling folks to buy vp stuff, its literally right next to the tru fuel on the shelf.
 
Canned premix is alkylate, very stable compared to even non ethanol pump gas.

I've used TruFuel for years with no issues. Chose TruFuel because it's available in 40:1 ratio, uses JADO FD oil, and costs the least.
Actually, I use them both, Tru-Fuel and Echo Red Armor. I don't run my saws a lot and they sit a lot so for me, Syn Fuel is a viable alternative to pump gas, e-gas or not and 'Rec Fuel' regular with no corn alcohol is hard to get here. Nearest station is 20 miles from here and it's expensive too. I don't factor in the cost of syn fuel at all, don't care actually. If it was 50 bucks a can, I'd still buy it and I've had no adverse reactions with Tru-Fuel at all but again, I use both, whatever is available in my travels, I purchase. Presently, there is a full can of Red Armor on the shelf and 3/4 of the gas can I use to fill my saws has TF in it and always 50:1 unless it's a new saw, then 40:1 for the first few tank full's. I'd rather have no issues than an issue when I require them to run. Not a brain fart for me at all, just common sense.

Far as all my gas powered equipment is concerned, Zero Turn mowers, roto tiller, portable genny and the rest, I always use Blue Marine Stabil at the recommended dosage (not cheap like the red, stinky stuff that IMO, does nothing but stink) in everything and the gas tanks are always full over the winter months (now) and they always fire right up after sitting for an extended time in the unheated barn and I disconnect the starting batteries (positive terminal only) when storing them (and I make sure the batteries are fully charged as well),

Never had an issue in the spring so far at least.

My diesel equipment (tractors and pickup truck), which also sleeps all winter in the garage) all get Archoil fuel additive as well as AR 6100 Nano-Borate oil additive in the crankcases and the fuel additive in the fuel tanks and everything farm related (as well as the cars) get a steady diet of 5-40 Rotella T6. I have a big investment in ag tractors and sometimes in the winter I need them to start when it's real cold out (like now it's 18 ambient and 18 in the unheated equipment barn and no electricity in there to plug them in (block heaters) so it's always a stone cold start and the starting batteries on the tractors also get their positive terminals isolated, via a disconnect switch and no matter how cold it is, when I reconnect the positive terminal and give them 10 seconds of pre-heat, they fire right up, no issue.

I use 5-40 T6 simply because it allows the big diesels and car engines to crank easier when it's real cold out and unlike most people, my starting batteries get renewed every 4 years and everything gets 'Alliance' flooded cell batteries I purchase from the local Freightliner dealer because they turn over starting batteries in frequency so I know their storage batteries are fresh and viable. Any storage battery sitting on a shelf idle, is wasting it's life away (sulfation) and I cannot afford to purchase a battery that is half dead anyway.

So yes, I use canned fuel in the saws, always and will continue to. I've had zero issues with either brand despite what I've read on here. It's expensive but I don't really care much. it works and the saws fire right up no matter how long they sit. One thing I always do, is, I keep the full cans of syn fuel tightly capped when on the shelf awaiting to be used and the fuel, as well as my saws and everything else are in my heated and air conditioned shop, not in some unheated space. I keep the shop at a constant 60 degrees in the winter and 70 in the summer. I have to with precision machine tools to maintain their machining tolerances.

Not going to deviate despite what I read on this forum concerning syn-fuel as I've not experienced any of the posted ill's myself.

Finally. from my observance (only), the Red Armor don't produce exhaust carbon at all. USDA spark screens stay clean and no carbon buildup in the exhaust ports either. Not sure about the Tru-Fuel because I use mostly Red Armor 50-1. Back when I used Stihl pre mix bottles in Rec Gas and it produced exhaust carbon in the exhaust ports and well as clogging the USDA spark screens. Not observed with Red Armor.

I'll purchase whatever is available at a store in my travels, not at all biased one way or another so long as the infrequently used saws start up and I have no intake issues from gunked up carbs, hardened diaphragms or mummyfied fuel lines.
 
In summation, I use what works for me and as with any public forum, I take every comment / post with a large grain of salt. What people post and what I experience first hand seem to be 2 different things and I frequent forums like this to gain knowledge but I always distill comments and absorb them with a grain of salt anyway. Opinions are like butt holes. Everyone has them and some stink while others don't.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top