Pioneer chainsaws

[Beavers]

Use good hi test fuel , non ethonel . l have had success chucking the cap in the freezer for a day or two. it seems to shrink the cap for some reason.
Note: this topic has been discussed before here many times.

 

[mogulmasher]

Use good hi test fuel , non ethonel . l have had success chucking the cap in the freezer for a day or two. it seems to shrink the cap for some reason.
Note: this topic has been discussed before here many times.

Ok I use hitest ethanol fuel....if it's gonna sit more than a month l dump it. However I've been using the saw lately trimming bucked logs to length as I split a lot. Kinda a pain to dump fuel when your gonna use it again in the next few days again.

 

[Otis B Knotknocker]

I am an old log cutter from the Pacific Northwest. The first Pioneer I bought was the P60, and I continued to use Pioneer/Poulan until they were no longer sold in the states. I smashed them often using a roll cut shown to me by a Sawyer from New Mexico. While not the perfect saw the sheer power of them led some to think I was SUPERMAN! Not so. I am not a collector or "chainsaw dork", Saws are just tools of the trade.
All for sale, some run some might not, all turn over. Would think of them as parts saws - no guarantees.

 

[ozziechainsaw]

I got my first ever Pioneer chainsaw today. A Pioneer Holiday.

Needs a good clean up. The starter rewind coil is busted and will need replacing. If i cannot find anything online for it, can anyone recommend a quality supplier in the US that I could get Pioneer parts from ?

 

[rocketnorton]

I am an old log cutter from the Pacific Northwest. The first Pioneer I bought was the P60, and I continued to use Pioneer/Poulan until they were no longer sold in the states. I smashed them often using a roll cut shown to me by a Sawyer from New Mexico. While not the perfect saw the sheer power of them led some to think I was SUPERMAN! Not so. I am not a collector or "chainsaw dork", Saws are just tools of the trade.
All for sale, some run some might not, all turn over. Would think of them as parts saws - no guarantees.

@Sass

 

[Lou]

I am an old log cutter from the Pacific Northwest. The first Pioneer I bought was the P60, and I continued to use Pioneer/Poulan until they were no longer sold in the states. I smashed them often using a roll cut shown to me by a Sawyer from New Mexico. While not the perfect saw the sheer power of them led some to think I was SUPERMAN! Not so. I am not a collector or "chainsaw dork", Saws are just tools of the trade.
All for sale, some run some might not, all turnover. Would think of them as parts saws - no guarantees.

A Google search didn't answer my question. Can anyone explain or demonstrate (please don't destroy a saw) what a "Roll Cut" is?
Was it used on standing or felled logs? I would likely answer this question with "yes" (my lady often questions the marital status of my parents, at the time of my conception, when I do that), please choose one of the two options listed. If neither of them I'd appreciate an explanation.
TIA
Lou

 

[Otis B Knotknocker]

I'm sure Otis will explain when he's near a computer again... this week-end probably.

 

[chainsawlady]

I got my first ever Pioneer chainsaw today. A Pioneer Holiday.

Needs a good clean up. The starter rewind coil is busted and will need replacing. If i cannot find anything online for it, can anyone recommend a quality supplier in the US that I could get Pioneer parts from ?

I have several new Pioneer bars for saws 1950 to 2000. Will send a list. joycewilson26@gmailcom

 

[pioneerguy600]

A Google search didn't answer my question. Can anyone explain or demonstrate (please don't destroy a saw) what a "Roll Cut" is?
Was it used on standing or felled logs? I would likely answer this question with "yes" (my lady often questions the marital status of my parents, at the time of my conception, when I do that), please choose one of the two options listed. If neither of them I'd appreciate an explanation.
TIA
Lou

We often used them in close quarters felling to redirect the fall somewhat away from the natural lean of the tree. The bigger the diameter of the tree the more likely the chain bar could get caught/jammed as the tree began to fall. I witnessed a fellow crush his new Partner saw when the bar got jammed in the cut the tree rotated down off the stump and fell on top of the powerhead, a two ton hemlock didn`t leave anything salvageable.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Seems like a rather counterproductive technique.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Seems like a rather counterproductive technique.

I have pulled it off a couple dozen times at least and had no damage but it is a tricky manouver when done correctly will put a tree on the ground where wanted. I hope the OP comes back and gives more details for everyone, they may do it a little different on the PNW.

 

[cbfarmall]

Here's something I've been brewing for awhile. A new 750 build. These parts have been slowly coming in, beginning with the NOS crankcase. I have now located a new fuel/tank handle to go with what's pictured so this saw will be going together soon. Of course, there will be a few used parts. Washers, odds and ends, primer pump assembly and oiler pump body. Probably end up with 10 different shades of yellow, but who cares.

I won't be a true 100% 750 because I'm using an ungoverned 700 case.

Chris B.

 

[hillwilliam]

I hadn't looked at evil-bay for a long time, but last week I noticed what looked like a sweet P52 w/ a 24" roller tip. A close friend of mine jumped on it and bought it. He dropped it off with me yesterday to check over. I couldn't find a thing wrong with it other than a missing chain brake. Fired it up, ran it a bit and tuned it.

It's essentially a new saw. I'm more excited about the new saw than he is! I'd be glad to port it, etc. for him while I'm staying holed up and away from people, but he'll likely want to leave it stock. Either choice would be the right answer.

Now my friend has three Pioneers, including a ported P45 I had given him.

I swapped the giant talons for the smaller dogs. Thanks to Paul Hill for those!

 

[Otis B Knotknocker]

A Google search didn't answer my question. Can anyone explain or demonstrate (please don't destroy a saw) what a "Roll Cut" is?
Was it used on standing or felled logs? I would likely answer this question with "yes" (my lady often questions the marital status of my parents, at the time of my conception, when I do that), please choose one of the two options listed. If neither of them I'd appreciate an explanation.

If the log is still standing it is a tree...
THE MEXICAN ROLL CUT:
The roll cut uses the weight of the tree and gravity to fall to a lead. One can move the tree from 45 to (the more difficult) 90 degrees away from the lean or limb load. If the tree leans hard right from where you are standing and you wish it to swing to the left - stand on the left side and make your undercut completely under the lean of the tree about half way through. Cut a small conventional notch starting at the beginning of your undercut in the direction of fall. The Humbolt Notch will not work for this! Begin your back cut flush with the undercut leaving reasonable holding wood. As the back cut meets the undercut on the far side the tree should begin to set out and away and begin to roll toward the notch.

(If not, cut on your holding wood until you become fearful. If the tree hasn't begun to move, STOP and re-assess the dynamics. If the tree leans over you instead of away from you the holding wood may pull it directly over your saw. Sometimes a wedge will help to get the tree moving while preventing it from a bad flop. Misreading the lean can cost you your saw. Do not cut beyond your undercut with your back cut unless the tree is moving.).

As the tree swings it sets down on the kerf and continues to roll as you cut. Continue cutting the wood away reducing the triangular shaped holding wood. As the tree falls into the notch - cut away remaining holding wood and step back.

(If the tree stops moving - stop sawing. Assess the situation again. Sometimes you can reduce your holding wood. Other times - when the kerf has closed on the far side and met the edge of your notch - you can nibble away a little wood where the tree has set down on the stump being very careful not to pinch the end of your bar. Or you can use a wedge.)

It's important to be able to cut your holding wood off. I will often exaggerate the undercut until the tree begins to pinch my bar. I start my backcut in the kerf of the undercut on the far side reducing more holding wood until the tree begins to pinch my bar again. This reduces the remaining depth of the holding wood to match the capability of my saw. This can also work if your bar is shorter than the diameter of the tree.

This method has save me countless hours beating wedges and after forty some years I can still lift my arm over my ear..!

 

[Otis B Knotknocker]

We often used them in close quarters felling to redirect the fall somewhat away from the natural lean of the tree. The bigger the diameter of the tree the more likely the chain bar could get caught/jammed as the tree began to fall. I witnessed a fellow crush his new Partner saw when the bar got jammed in the cut the tree rotated down off the stump and fell on top of the powerhead, a two ton hemlock didn`t leave anything salvageable.

I have often been surprised how such a small strap of wood could pull a big tree directly over the top of my chainsaw. All one can do is step back and watch and wonder why God is mad at me today.

 

[Lou]

@ Otis B Knotknocker;
Thank you very much.
Here's hoping everyone manages to stay healthy; and that everyone has a happy Easter.
Lou

 

[ML12]

Got started on reassembly of the 700 last night. I'm still waiting on parts (coil, rings, carb kit) so this is about as far as it'll go until that stuff shows up.

 

[Beavers]

Collection of fuel filters Pioneer used on their saws 1953 thru 1983

 

[cbfarmall]

Got started on reassembly of the 700 last night. I'm still waiting on parts (coil, rings, carb kit) so this is about as far as it'll go until that stuff shows up.

View attachment 818467

View attachment 818468

Did you have to reseal the front of the fuel tank. I've found those like to start leaking at the most inopportune time.

If you have trouble with the OMC carb, look into getting an 090 Stihl carb. It'll bolt up, just need to deal with the choke.

What are you using for a coil? Modifedmark found aftermarket Evinrude/Johnson are a perfect fit.

Here's my 750 in the early stages from 95% NOS parts.


Chris B.

 

[ML12]

Did you have to reseal the front of the fuel tank. I've found those like to start leaking at the most inopportune time.

If you have trouble with the OMC carb, look into getting an 090 Stihl carb. It'll bolt up, just need to deal with the choke.

What are you using for a coil? Modifedmark found aftermarket Evinrude/Johnson are a perfect fit.

Here's my 750 in the early stages from 95% NOS parts.
View attachment 819875

Chris B.

I didn't reseal the fuel tank. The previous owner stored it dry and it still has the black pioneer sealer well adhered in it. If it starts to leak I will line it with redkote.

Thanks for the tip on the 090 carb, I stole a Tillotson HL from a 650 to use on my 1750 as the OMC carb was a corroded mess. This 700 carb is very clean inside, so I just ordered a kit from Sugar creek supply.

I'm using the same replacement Johnson/Evinrude coil you mentioned, its my 3rd time replacing one on a Pioneer. I can actually buy all the ignition parts, coil, condenser, points, through NAPA autoparts here, but they're pricey.

I haven't made any more progress, the whole Covid-19 thing is slowing everything down here.