Replacement AV Bushings For A Poulan 5200

[blsnelling]

As many of you already know, AV bushings for the 5200 are NLA. I read somewhere that there was a Husky bushing that could be made to work. It was mentioned that it was the "small" one from a "2 series" saw. I ordered these and they were way too small.

I then ordered the large ones. The AV mount itself is nearly identical. Diameter is the same and length is within 1/16".

The only hurdle to overcome now is that these are made to thread into plastic. I've considered several options. One would be cutting the first few threads of the stud to resemble a self threading sheet metal screw. I've also contemplated trying to replace the stud with a bolt thread into the metal base. Most promising would be if I could dress the coarse threads off the stud and tap to the correct size. Any advice would be appreciated.

Note: The metal base and stud on the original mount is simply setting there unattached.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

Brad

What thread size is the original mount thread? Looks to be around 5/16-18? I like the idea of turning down the replacement and rethreading it with a die.

 

[stubnail67]

you should post it in the poulan thread.... im sure one of those boys may know....

 

[blsnelling]

I'm not at home this evening to check the thread size.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Brad take a look at these. I know they go into metal not plastic. 501269702 from 272 266 285 2100

 

[blsnelling]

Thanks Kevin. I'm seeing that some had metal tanks and some had plastic tanks.

These are for Husqvarna 61, 66, 266, 268, 272 Jonsered 625, 630, 670.
Replaces OEM: 501 77 35-01.

 

[blsnelling]

Some more info on those Kevin. Those came in hard and soft versions. The part number you listed is the hard ones. The cheapest I've found those is $9.52/ea. However, I found the soft version in an aftermarket replacement for $2.64/ea. That would give you a whole set of 6 for only $15.84, only $23.79 shipped. Anyone know what thread these would be? The OEM PN for these is 501269704.

 

[Jacob J.]

Some more info on those Kevin. Those came in hard and soft versions. The part number you listed is the hard ones. The cheapest I've found those is $9.52/ea. However, I found the soft version in an aftermarket replacement for $2.64/ea. That would give you a whole set of 6 for only $15.84, only $23.79 shipped. Anyone know what thread these would be? The OEM PN for these is 501269704.

Obviously, since they're a Husqvarna intended replacement part, the thread pattern will be metric. So those are 5mm x 0.8mm pitch. I believe your Poulan bushings use an SAE thread pattern?

 

[Modifiedmark]

Anyone know what thread these would be? .

Without going out and looking, I think the original stud was #10 X 24

 

[Modifiedmark]

Without going out and looking, I think the original stud was #10 X 24

It looks like you might be able to turn down and re thread that bushing that you have. Be careful and don't try to thread it in too deep or you will break through the bottom and ruin the tank.

 

[Jacob J.]

It looks like you might be able to turn down and re thread that bushing that you have. Be careful and don't try to thread it in too deep or you will break through the bottom and ruin the tank.

Could he put metric threads in the tank? The Husqvarna bushings are going to be available for a long time. He may need to replace those down the line.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Could he put metric threads in the tank? The Husqvarna bushings are going to be available for a long time. He may need to replace those down the line.

Is 5mm that much bigger diameter then #10 to clean out the old threads and cut clean new ones in? If so I would say yes, but it would have to be done carefully. You would for sure have to start tapping with a regular tap and finish with a bottom tap. That tank is thin in the back of the area that the isolator stud screws into. A little bit bigger diameter stud probably wouldn't hurt anything.

I would love to see something else be able to be used for these also, trust me on that.

 

[blsnelling]

All good stuff guys. I've considered a lot of these options and concerns and appreciate you guys weighing in. I'd love to help the community come up with a viable solution.

The easiest would be if you can simply re-tap for the metric threads.

The best might be if you have a lathe and/or means of turning down these that I have and threading with the original thread size.

I've also considered steel inserts for the metric threads. I can get the locking ones through Fastenal at a decent price. I'm not sure there's enough metal there though.

 

[Modifiedmark]

All good stuff guys. I've considered a lot of these options and concerns and appreciate you guys weighing in. I'd love to help the community come up with a viable solution.

The easiest would be if you can simply re-tap for the metric threads.

The best might be if you have a lathe and/or means of turning down these that I have and threading with the original thread size.

I've also considered steel inserts for the metric threads. I can get the locking ones through Fastenal at a decent price. I'm not sure there's enough metal there though.

I think I got a junk tank to experiment on..

 

[blsnelling]

The m5 hole size it's only about .009" larger. I don't think that's enough larger to just re-tap.

 

[Modifiedmark]

The m5 hole size it's only about .009" larger. I don't think that's enough larger to just re-tap.

That's what I was thinking you would find out.

Inserts might be the way to go?

 

[blsnelling]

The Keyserts I use are M8-1.25 outside thread size with M5-.8 inside. I've actually made my own inserts before by taking an 8mm bolt and drilling and tapping it 5mm.

That would be awesome if you could see if there's enough meat to tap 8mm. Meanwhile, I'll see about making one of these 10-24.

 

[blsnelling]

I got home late tonight, but was curious about making this work. As it turns out, the threads in the tank are 12-24.

I chucked one of these mounts in the lathe but could not cut it without it jumping loose. So, while it was turning in the lathe, I used a file to remove what ended up being just the top of the threads. Had I been going to 10-24, I could have removed all of the coarse threads. As it turned out, I was still able to cut quite decent threads in these studs and they're successfully installed on the saw. I did have to shorten the studs a little. I'll pick up some new M5-.8 screws to fasten the crankcase to the new mounts, and be good to go.

I'm still interested in seeing about putting steel inserts in the tank for the 272 metal tank bushings. As I mentioned above, the Keyserts I use for M5-.8 have an outside thread of M8-1.25. To do so, we'd be losing a wall thickness of .044". If there's enough meat for a M8-1.25 tap, Keyserts would be the most solid installation. However, I'm quite happy with the way mine turned out. Just looking for the best possible solution for guys wanting to restore these great old saws.

 

[Stihl 041S]

If it's that close just double thread it. Course thread.
There is enough thread in there. Medium Loctite.
Stud locker if you don't think it will be replaced again.

I didn't see your 1:52 am post. Lol

That works well.

Nice work Ol Buddy

 

[Modifiedmark]

I got home late tonight, but was curious about making this work. As it turns out, the threads in the tank are 12-24.

I chucked one of these mounts in the lathe but could not cut it without it jumping loose. So, while it was turning in the lathe, I used a file to remove what ended up being just the top of the threads. Had I been going to 10-24, I could have removed all of the coarse threads. As it turned out, I was still able to cut quite decent threads in these studs and they're successfully installed on the saw. I did have to shorten the studs a little. I'll pick up some new M5-.8 screws to fasten the crankcase to the new mounts, and be good to go.

I'm still interested in seeing about putting steel inserts in the tank for the 272 metal tank bushings. As I mentioned above, the Keyserts I use for M5-.8 have an outside thread of M8-1.25. To do so, we'd be losing a wall thickness of .044". If there's enough meat for a M8-1.25 tap, Keyserts would be the most solid installation. However, I'm quite happy with the way mine turned out. Just looking for the best possible solution for guys wanting to restore these great old saws.

Good to hear I guess.

Not surprised to hear they were 12-24 either.