Stihl Special Servicing Tools

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thompson1600

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Are most of the Stihl servicing tools only available through a Stihl dealer, or are there aftermarket alternatives?

Any good ideas on how to make your own or improvise other tools to work?

Mainly looking at removing the crankshafts and replacing seals and bearings on 044 and 066.

Any other good ideas on improvising tools?

Thanks

Tom
 
The tools I'm really wondering about are the Service Tools AS and ZS for removing the crank. Are there alternatives to spending $300 for the set?

How about the 5910 890 4400 oil seal puller alternatives to a $125 part?

How about the carb and crank tester, 1106 850 2905 alternatives?

Then any of the press tools for removing the crankcase bearings and reseating the oil seals alternatives?

Thanks

Tom
 
Ive got the crank case tools.
I don't have many seal tools, pvc pipe works good.

as for the seal puller, i either dont use it right or it just aint made worth a ???? cause i hardly works.

all the preasure and vac stuff ive got came from them..
 
I've had five saws completely apart--2 045s, 056, 066, TS 350--and have never used Stihl's special tools. I'm afraid I'd get my butt kicked around here if I divulged my secrets so use your imagination. For seals anyway, I use a small screwdriver to pry them out and deep well sockets just a tiny bit smaller than the seal OD to drive them in. Heat is helpful when installing bearings.

My friend has decades of experience in repairing/rebuilding pumps so he has taught me alot. For instance, skillful use of hammer and punch and heat is preferable to cranking away with a puller.

Good luck with your repairs.

Chris B.
 
Stihl Special Tools

I was in a "very reputable Stihl Dealer", and asked one of their mechanics about the "crankcase tools". He replied that the Stihl tools were "too expensive" and uses a regular press etc. Saab does the same thing.(20 pages of Special Tools). Guess it makes the job "Fool Proof". A good machinist could copy the originals. Mike.
 
Tom, you probably don't need any of the special stihl tools.

On separating the case halves; sometimes they just come apart but other times you may have to use a small propane torch. Heat will ruin the bearing cages as they are usually plastic, but chances are if you're splitting the case then you intended to change bearings anyway. I don't think you can change bearings with out splitting the cases.

To change seals only, I do this. Use a small punch or chisel to drive one end of the seal in. This should cause the other side to pop up a little. Then you can use a screwdriver or chisel to pry up and lift the seal out. On seal installation do as others have stated and use a socket to drive them in. Just be sure they stay perpendicular to the crankshaft.

To install bearings and assemble the saw. A little heat will help. Put the bearings in the oven at 325. Put the crank in the freezer for a while. Wear gloves, take everything out and put it together. If you don't have a press, use a C clamp and some large sockets for press cups. I know it sounds okie but it works well. You can also use the C clamp to assemble the case halves around the crank. Just be sure everything spins freely when you're done.

Good luck with your project. John
 
Stihl Clutch Removal without Lock Strip?

Many posts this thread about not needing Stihl special tools. How do I remove clutch without locking strip, 0000 893 5903?
 
Many posts this thread about not needing Stihl special tools. How do I remove clutch without locking strip, 0000 893 5903?
Howdy,
The locking strip is aka piston stop. There's a few ways to skin that cat. If you have an air impact gun, you don't need a piston stop at all. What saw are you working with?
Regards
Gregg
 
Many posts this thread about not needing Stihl special tools. How do I remove clutch without locking strip, 0000 893 5903?

I just called my dealer today to order one, since I read enough on here to suggest that it is the best way to do it (though not fool proof). Rope works, you can search, or an impact. But I guess it can do damage to smaller saws.

When I called my dealer he's like, "is that the little angled plastic piece that you use to stop the piston?" I'm like, "yeah it is," and he said "oh well I'll just give you one since I have about 50 laying around the shop." Either way, someone said they're like $0.60 from their dealer.
 
490825.jpg
 
Many posts this thread about not needing Stihl special tools. How do I remove clutch without locking strip, 0000 893 5903?

The piston stop from Stihl is only a few dollars -- buy it! It is far better than most and works better than pull rope in the cylinder. (My 2 pennies!)
 
Thanks to All

I ordered the special tool; with shipping it was less than $15. But I was in a hurry and used the rope. It worked fine; but as others have commented, a lot of carbon build up was dislodged. I blew it out with my compressor, started her up and she ran fine. Didn't have an impact wrench; so, that option was out.

THANKS SO MUCH! Found other threads that are really valuable about sharpening that have saved me lots of grief. Super site. Ron G
 
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