when I originally installed the crank thru it, but the issue is I set it too deep. removed it yesterday and will have new seals soon.
need advice removing 372XP clutch
- Thread starter flatsfisher
- Start date
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There is a sleeve and washer that the seal rides on that you should remove before you install the seal. If you install the seal over it, you run the risk of turning the seal inside out on the sleeve lip. After the seal is installed, the large end of that sleeve slides over the crank and you can twist it into the seal with some grease on it
excellent advice. I appreciate it.
de-carboned the exhaust port and got the top end on it.
received the O-ring for the crankshaft today. supposed to be OEM but came in an unmarked baggie. does this look correct? didn't expect it to be so thin.
Yeah that’s probably it. I wouldn’t worry about whether it’s OEM or not. Most of them I have rebuilt no longer had them in them there anyway. Either they disintegrated or weren’t there to begin with. I just smear some sealant inside the bushing when I install it
yeah, it doesn't look like it would survive long against a spinning bearing. will do on the sealant. thanks again.
It all spins together. Inner race of the bearing, the crank, and the under lip of that bushing are all mated together in one spot.
But I don’t know where they go. Lol. They’re almost always gone by the time I get to them
installed the muffler, kitted the carb and few other small things today while waiting for the crank seal I effed up. wanted to clean the high and low speed adjuster screw passages so I removed the plastic retainer and broke off the plastic limiters. any issues with this? service manual says to break in a new piston and rings with the limiters out 1 turn each for I think 3 to 5 hours.
I’d trim the limiter tabs off and reinstall the caps. They help the jets stay put so the tune doesn’t wander. Also is a bunch easier hitting the plastic caps with a tuning screwdriver than it is those tiny screws
wonderful. too late, couldn't get them off in one piece. guess I could buy new ones... thanks for the heads up.
I believe I trim them in place on the 372. But they can be replaced. Seems they are only a couple bucks
did a pressure test of the carb rebuild. held pressure for a long time.
Mr. huskihl. how in the hay do you get the toggle joint spring to compress to where it needs to be?
Take the left end of the spring out, get the knuckle where it goes in the “brake on” position, and while continually holding everything in, push the spring back in with a large slotted screwdriver pushed into the end of the spring. And then install the mechanism cover
will give it a whirl tomorrow. thank you sir.
Dennisthemenace
ArboristSite Operative
Agrre
Yes, I bought a set, they will work on pretty well any saw todays all rounder will encounter
do you guys have any pictures of these tools?
I have tried but never could get a pic sent. I did send you a PM om Monday.
do you have a pic of your set?
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