good idea.
need advice removing 372XP clutch
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if I wanted to change from the high top to the low top, is it as simple as getting the low filter and low filter cover or are other intake parts required?
apparently, a different air horn is required?
apparently, a different air horn is required?
The filter elbow is different as well
You'll need 3, 4, and 5 on the diagram and a high top too. For a/m parts, gaskets/seals from Hiway, pistons from Meteor, and replace the plastic intake seat (#13 in the diagram) with an aluminum one, I believe Wolf Creek Saw Shop has them and the other parts too. The tank looks fine, I'd run it. The logger-owned 372's I've seen were almost always missing the trigger lock.
thanks Woodslasher. actually, I'm going the other way, from high top to low top. didn't know about the alum intake seats. what's the reason?
The plastic ones don't hold tight when getting old. So you get an air leak.
I actually ordered a Meteor single ring piston set, walbro carb kit and FAG crankshaft bearings with BAO seals from Ryan a couple of days ago. didn't know about the aluminum intake seat or I would have asked him about it. will look into that.
put the completely brown rusted muffler in my home made evaporust mix along with some wire wheeling. ready for paint.
I think I have everything now except for the OEM gasket set and the OEM brake handle which are taking their own good time getting here. found a pretty nice used OEM fuel tank. most of this stuff is OEM.
had relatives here for almost 2 weeks (Florida living syndrome) so had to bench this for a while. put an 8x10 sheet of sandpaper on my surface plate and buffed the gasket surfaces. used the Donny Walker method for heating the bearing pockets and got the crank bearings and seals installed.
got the old bearing off the crank. used a little heat and it came right off.
have fixed quite a few saws now but my 1st time putting crank seals and a crank in a chainsaw. have done it on a lot of MX bikes but don't have the special tools for saw cranks. is there a good way to pull the crank into the cases without those tools? in the Donny Walker vid above he uses a press with some tools he made. can do that if I have to but would like to hear other methods. thanks.
oh, in his vid Donny put sealer on 1 side of the cases center gasket. most folks probably put this in dry? if I use sealer, I have Motoseal and Dirko HT red. are either of those good for the center gasket? I would think so.
used the Donny Walker method of installing the crankshaft into the cases with a press instead of buying the Husky assembly tools. was fast and easy. required very little pressure from the press. made the tools from old dirt bike linkage bushings.
makeshift tools are on the right of the cases next to the oil line.
looks like I effed up the clutch side crank seal. I installed it flush with the cases and then when I installed the crank and pressed the cases together, I noticed that the seal was not engaged on the crank boss. so, I tapped it lower completely forgetting about the sleeve that goes on that side of the crank and was not even aware of the O-ring that goes into the seal as it was missing when I took it apart. I also missed it on the IPL doh. guess I have to pull the seal and buy another? any ideas?
I messaged Ryan at Wolfcreek that I had ruined the clutch side crank seal and could I buy that one seal. I didn't get a response from him but within a couple of hours I received a notice on my email that a package had been shipped from Wolfcreek. he's sending me both seals no cost for seals and shipping. my intent was to pay for it. I had purchased my Meteor piston set, crank bearings and seals from him earlier and have bought piston sets from him before. kudos for the fantastic customer service.
Post 93 and 98
There is a Dentist that makes (Has a Good Machinist friend) a crank install tool(s) that will get you to drooling and dreaming. He is on another site but sells them on the net. I bought all the options he had for around 300$. I think his complete set up will do most any saw you come across. Be a lot cheaper for just the one platform/crank thread class of saws.
There is a Dentist that makes (Has a Good Machinist friend) a crank install tool(s) that will get you to drooling and dreaming. He is on another site but sells them on the net. I bought all the options he had for around 300$. I think his complete set up will do most any saw you come across. Be a lot cheaper for just the one platform/crank thread class of saws.
Did you cover that thread with something like tape?
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