My new Husqvarna 346 XP NE arrived. Now I have questions...............

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Frostbite

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Guys, I got home from camping for several days at a mountain lake with the family and my new saw (Husky 346XP NE - Gray clutch cover) with a 20" bar had arrived.

Instead of dumping the holding tanks (like I should have been doing) I excitedly opened the box, took out the saw and attempted to pull off the clutch cover. Let's just say I had a heck of a time (the chain brake was on and I hadn't noticed) so it took me a while and trip to this forum to figure out how to get the brake reset with the clutch cover off.

Now I have a couple questions.

1. Maybe I didn't do enough research but, I thought the saw used a 3/8" pitch chain. Mine is .325" pitch. Before I buy any replacement chains, is this something I need to remedy by changing the sprocket?

2. My saw manual says 346XP EPA 1 (not EPA II like the 353 states). It has gray gas and oil caps. Am I to consider this saw does NOT have the CAT equipped muffler? That will save me $39.99 if that's the case.

3. This saw is at least a full 3.0 lb. lighter on our digital scale than my old Rancher 61 with a 20" bar (14 lbs vs 17lbs) but the bar looks to be a little shorter and thinner than on the Rancher 61 with an Oregon bar (18 15/16" vs. 19 5/16" from the end of the bar adjustment slot). But, I haven't run the new saw just yet and I'm sure the chain will stretch. What replacement chains do you guys recommend I buy for the saw? I suppose I need all new chain files now as well?

4. When I pick up the new saw I hear something loose bouncing around inside the saw? Is there a gas tank float bouncing around or something? I'll pull the covers off and check it out before I fire up the saw.

5. Oil??? Is there one oil that is head and shoulders above the rest for this saw? If it's really not that big of a deal, I may just use the Blue Marble I use in my outboards, snowmobiles and my Rancher 61.

6. Where can I find a parts breakdown for the saw?

Thanks for all the help

PS: I still think my old tried and true Rancher 61 is going to kick the new kids butt!

Frosty
 
Guys, I got home from camping for several days at a mountain lake with the family and my new saw (Husky 346XP NE - Gray clutch cover) with a 20" bar had arrived.

Instead of dumping the holding tanks (like I should have been doing) I excitedly opened the box, took out the saw and attempted to pull off the clutch cover. Let's just say I had a heck of a time (the chain brake was on and I hadn't noticed) so it took me a while and trip to this forum to figure out how to get the brake reset with the clutch cover off.

Now I have a couple questions.

1. Maybe I didn't do enough research but, I thought the saw used a 3/8" pitch chain. Mine is .325" pitch. Before I buy any replacement chains, is this something I need to remedy by changing the sprocket?

2. My saw manual says 346XP EPA 1 (not EPA II like the 353 states). It has gray gas and oil caps. Am I to consider this saw does NOT have the CAT equipped muffler? That will save me $39.99 if that's the case.

3. This saw is at least a full 3.0 lb. lighter on our digital scale than my old Rancher 61 with a 20" bar (14 lbs vs 17lbs) but the bar looks to be a little shorter and thinner than on the Rancher 61 with an Oregon bar (18 15/16" vs. 19 5/16" from the end of the bar adjustment slot). But, I haven't run the new saw just yet and I'm sure the chain will stretch. What replacement chains do you guys recommend I buy for the saw? I suppose I need all new chain files now as well?

4. When I pick up the new saw I hear something loose bouncing around inside the saw? Is there a gas tank float bouncing around or something? I'll pull the covers off and check it out before I fire up the saw.

5. Oil??? Is there one oil that is head and shoulders above the rest for this saw? If it's really not that big of a deal, I may just use the Blue Marble I use in my outboards, snowmobiles and my Rancher 61.

6. Where can I find a parts breakdown for the saw?

Thanks for all the help

PS: I still think my old tried and true Rancher 61 is going to kick the new kids butt!

Frosty



I dont know much about husky so please bear with me
on question 4, its probily the fuel filter that you are hearing rattle.


Use any oil except water cooled type oil.

For the other questions you have some fine people here at AS and welcome
 
1. Smaller saws can be equiped with .325 chain or .375 pitch chain. You would need to be specific when purchasing the saw to get .375 chain.

2. run a good synthetic 2 stroke oil.

3.Your bar is thinner because it is for a .325 chain and the groove width (gauge) may be narrower if it is low pro chain they are usually .043 wide grooves and bars vary in width and weight.

4. rattle is just fuel filter flopping around in the tank.

5. Get Husqvarna xp oil which is semi synthetic or Stihl ultra both oils are very very good.

To change to a 3/8 chain you need to remove the circlip on the crankshaft slide off the .325 sprocket and install a .375 sproket and put the circlip back on. If your groove on you bar is .050 wide you can get a 3/8" chain to fit your current bar but it may be the smaller .043 gauge if it is lowpro chain and 3/8 would not work with that bar.
 
If it has a grey gas cap, it probably doesn't have a cat in the muffler.

I'm running a 3/8 .050 72 series chain on my 346xp, but they come with .325. You'll need to change the rim sprocket, if that is what it has, or switch to either rim or spur sprocket and bar and chain. I think the consensus is that the .325 setup may cut quicker, but 3/8 seems to stay sharp longer.

As for oil, I would suggest something OTHER than what you would run in an outboard. The aircooled engines run much hotter, and the 346xp is a high rpm engine besides. I run Echo Powerblend 40-1, and it doesn't smoke or stink, and seems to work well without fouling plugs or clogging the spark arrestor screen. At $23/gallon its not expensive. Likewise Husqvarna XP is a synthetic blend, comes recommeded, and is $20/gallon. I've never found any Stihl oil for sale other than the dino variety in the orange bottles. Full synthetics are at least $9/quart.
 
To change to a 3/8 chain you need to remove the circlip on the crankshaft slide off the .325 sprocket and install a .375 sproket and put the circlip back on. If your groove on you bar is .050 wide you can get a 3/8" chain to fit your current bar but it may be the smaller .043 gauge if it is lowpro chain and 3/8 would not work with that bar.[/QUOTE]

Sorry to contradict you here Dave, but the 346XP has an outboard clutch, so requires stopping the piston and removing the clutch by way of LH thread. Likewise, while it may or may not be a narrow kerf chain, in the case of .325 they're .050 and not .043. A bar intended for .325 chain will not accomodate a 3/8 unless they both take the same width chain, AND are solid nose/hard nose variety bars. The sprocket nose bars are .325 or 3/8 specific.
 
Guys, I got home from camping for several days at a mountain lake with the family and my new saw (Husky 346XP NE - Gray clutch cover) with a 20" bar had arrived.

Instead of dumping the holding tanks (like I should have been doing) I excitedly opened the box, took out the saw and attempted to pull off the clutch cover. Let's just say I had a heck of a time (the chain brake was on and I hadn't noticed) so it took me a while and trip to this forum to figure out how to get the brake reset with the clutch cover off.

Now I have a couple questions.

1. Maybe I didn't do enough research but, I thought the saw used a 3/8" pitch chain. Mine is .325" pitch. Before I buy any replacement chains, is this something I need to remedy by changing the sprocket?

2. My saw manual says 346XP EPA 1 (not EPA II like the 353 states). It has gray gas and oil caps. Am I to consider this saw does NOT have the CAT equipped muffler? That will save me $39.99 if that's the case.

3. This saw is at least a full 3.0 lb. lighter on our digital scale than my old Rancher 61 with a 20" bar (14 lbs vs 17lbs) but the bar looks to be a little shorter and thinner than on the Rancher 61 with an Oregon bar (18 15/16" vs. 19 5/16" from the end of the bar adjustment slot). But, I haven't run the new saw just yet and I'm sure the chain will stretch. What replacement chains do you guys recommend I buy for the saw? I suppose I need all new chain files now as well?

4. When I pick up the new saw I hear something loose bouncing around inside the saw? Is there a gas tank float bouncing around or something? I'll pull the covers off and check it out before I fire up the saw.

5. Oil??? Is there one oil that is head and shoulders above the rest for this saw? If it's really not that big of a deal, I may just use the Blue Marble I use in my outboards, snowmobiles and my Rancher 61.

6. Where can I find a parts breakdown for the saw?

Thanks for all the help

PS: I still think my old tried and true Rancher 61 is going to kick the new kids butt!

Frosty


Did you pick this saw up from a dealer or mail order????
 
Guys, I got home from camping for several days at a mountain lake with the family and my new saw (Husky 346XP NE - Gray clutch cover) with a 20" bar had arrived.

Instead of dumping the holding tanks (like I should have been doing) I excitedly opened the box, took out the saw and attempted to pull off the clutch cover. Let's just say I had a heck of a time (the chain brake was on and I hadn't noticed) so it took me a while and trip to this forum to figure out how to get the brake reset with the clutch cover off.

Now I have a couple questions.

1. Maybe I didn't do enough research but, I thought the saw used a 3/8" pitch chain. Mine is .325" pitch. Before I buy any replacement chains, is this something I need to remedy by changing the sprocket?

A 20" bar is way too much on any 50cc saw, but if you have to, .325NK probably is the best choise.........:censored:

2. My saw manual says 346XP EPA 1 (not EPA II like the 353 states). It has gray gas and oil caps. Am I to consider this saw does NOT have the CAT equipped muffler? That will save me $39.99 if that's the case.

Sounds like you were in luck.....:)

3. This saw is at least a full 3.0 lb. lighter on our digital scale than my old Rancher 61 with a 20" bar (14 lbs vs 17lbs) but the bar looks to be a little shorter and thinner than on the Rancher 61 with an Oregon bar (18 15/16" vs. 19 5/16" from the end of the bar adjustment slot). But, I haven't run the new saw just yet and I'm sure the chain will stretch. What replacement chains do you guys recommend I buy for the saw? I suppose I need all new chain files now as well?

You will, and get a 16" bar with 21LP chain as well - and use that setup when you don't really need the 20" one.

4. When I pick up the new saw I hear something loose bouncing around inside the saw? Is there a gas tank float bouncing around or something? I'll pull the covers off and check it out before I fire up the saw.

5. Oil??? Is there one oil that is head and shoulders above the rest for this saw? If it's really not that big of a deal, I may just use the Blue Marble I use in my outboards, snowmobiles and my Rancher 61.

6. Where can I find a parts breakdown for the saw?


On the Husky web-site - unlike others, they make them easily available.....:clap
:


Thanks for all the help

PS: I still think my old tried and true Rancher 61 is going to kick the new kids butt!

Frosty
Answered afew things, in blue.....
 
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Thanks for the responses guys.

I saw a place selling Husky's on E bay for a heck of a good price with no tax and free shipping. They didn't have the saw I was looking for listed so I called their 1-800 phone number and just bought it directly.

The business is: Wise Equipment in Schaumburg, Il.Their phone number is 1-800-916-9473.

The price for the saw was $450 something for the 16" and 18" bar but, with a 20" bar it was bit more and mine was $465.99 shipped to my door (oops, with insurance it was $475.49).

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The weight of the two saws was dry. Neither saw had any fluids in them. The weight difference seems like way more than 3lbs but I guess that's over 20% lighter than my old saw.

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Sawtroll, I am a saw greenhorn and I have to ask, what is a .325NK chain? I get the .325 is the chain size but it NK a brand of chain or a Husky specific chain? I plan to order three replacement chains. Where's the best place to order the chains on line?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

The rattling isn't the fuel filter. I looked in the fuel tank and held my finger on the fuel hose and filter and held it in place while I rattled the saw. It still rattles, I removed the top cover and shook it but it's not readily eveident what's rattling. I'll look again.

Thanks again guys

Frosty
 
....

Sawtroll, I am a saw greenhorn and I have to ask, what is a .325NK chain? I get the .325 is the chain size but it NK a brand of chain or a Husky specific chain? ...

NK is short form for Narrow Kerf - as far as I know there are only two options - either the Oregon 95VP/Husky H30, or the Carlton 20NK.

My guess is that your saw came with a H30.....:)

...and if you want to use a 20" bar on a 50cc saw, those are the only sensible options - but it is a bad idea anyway.....
 
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Thanks again for the info guys.

I'm not a logger, just a guy who likes light weight and high power. I know the saw is only 50.1cc but it makes 3.7bhp which is only .2bhp less than either the Husky 359 or the Stihl MS290; and it's several pounds lighter.

Yes, the chain that came with the saw is a H30 078G (whatever that means). It looks like the part number is 5018406-78.
I see there are also H-25, H-36, H-37-38 and H-80-81 listed on the back of the box. So I should stick with the H30, right? Are either of the other chains mentioned better (Oregon 95VP/Husky H30, or the Carlton 20NK)?

Frosty
 
Thanks again for the info guys.

I'm not a logger, just a guy who likes light weight and high power. I know the saw is only 50.1cc but it makes 3.7bhp which is only .2bhp less than either the Husky 359 or the Stihl MS290; and it's several pounds lighter.

Yes, the chain that came with the saw is a H30 078G (whatever that means). It looks like the part number is 5018406-78.
I see there are also H-25, H-36, H-37-38 and H-80-81 listed on the back of the box. So I should stick with the H30, right? Are either of the other chains mentioned better (Oregon 95VP/Husky H30, or the Carlton 20NK)?

Frosty

Power to weight is just one of the good sides of that saw - and forget all the "H" numbers you listed......

.......with a 20" bar (far too much, really), stick with the H30/95VP - or the Carlton 20NK.
 
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