New 575xp

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576xps will be available to dealers in early september. we have a bunch on order already....scheduled delivery is the 1st according to Husq.

Early rumors of an autotune as well as more ponies and a smoother cut. I guess the auto tune isnt ready yet. husky rep told us he ran one for an hour or so and after it sat over night in the teens for temp she started first pull...that was with the autotune though so who knows...



I guess Stihl will hold back their 441 "autotune" until the Husky ships.. or.. maybe that's why Husky is holding theirs back :monkey:


I have a theory.... that the autotune will actually adapt to mods to give max power...
 
If you did any kind of research here before buying your 575XP, I have to ask why you would still buy one? why pay $700 for a saw that has had almost no good reviews at all?

I would be firing that saw through the dealers window if I paid that kind of coin and it cant even outperform a 57cc saw.

All the new EPA saws run like #### for 30-60 seconds, then they should run fine.
 
I would bet both H and L were way lean. Try turning the H screw to the left more unless you already started to burn it up from running lean. 2 cord is a lot to cut with a saw leaned out. If it was running rich enough to rob your power that bad it would have been smoking like a mother. Good luck

This quote is exactly the reason why you guys dislike the 575 - no one knows how to tune them so they run like $hit, and not many people understand how a strato charge engine works


If you tune them right, they perform. the only problem with the 575 is the monkey trying to tune it!
 
This quote is exactly the reason why you guys dislike the 575 - no one knows how to tune them so they run like $hit, and not many people understand how a strato charge engine works




LOL well at it coming back from the dealer and being poorly tuned twice by the "Saw Tech" I am guessing everybody is a monkey but you :monkey:

Out of curiosity what exactly does strato charge mean... Educate me... Is it a high tech device like the air injection system. Seriously.... Or does it just stand for same power more weight.


And I'm afraid we wouldn't have to tune them if they actually worked right from the factory, or the dealer. Perhaps you could get a contract with Husqvarna to tune the saws out of production so they would be universally loved like the 372.


Thank You,
The Monkey. :)
 
I guess Stihl will hold back their 441 "autotune" until the Husky ships.. or.. maybe that's why Husky is holding theirs back :monkey:


I have a theory.... that the autotune will actually adapt to mods to give max power...


There is some evidence that the Auto-tune is a good option, but then there is the weight issue.......:censored:
 
Strato charge or X-torq mean that there is a extra inlet for clean air in to the engine, this extra air mix whit the inlet-gas inside the engine and also whit the outlet burned gas and make this engine-type mush more cleaner then an ordinary 2-stroke...

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Interesting diagrams thanks for the info.... I wonder if its more prone to crankcase air leaks with that setup.
 
This quote is exactly the reason why you guys dislike the 575 - no one knows how to tune them so they run like $hit, and not many people understand how a strato charge engine works




LOL well at it coming back from the dealer and being poorly tuned twice by the "Saw Tech" I am guessing everybody is a monkey but you :monkey:

Out of curiosity what exactly does strato charge mean... Educate me... Is it a high tech device like the air injection system. Seriously.... Or does it just stand for same power more weight.


And I'm afraid we wouldn't have to tune them if they actually worked right from the factory, or the dealer. Perhaps you could get a contract with Husqvarna to tune the saws out of production so they would be universally loved like the 372.


Thank You,
The Monkey. :)

The factory actually send out 2 vital peices of information to the dealers. 1 is an operators manual, the other is a workshop manual. As a guess I would say 1% of dealers have actually read them.


With the 575, its not a case of "set low jet, set high jet with tach to high rpm"


I have posted the tuning manual somewhere on AS... Ill see if I can find it


Basicaly here is how its done.


Step 1. Set L jet as per normal.
Step 2. Set Idle as per normal.
Step 3. Grab your tacho, set H jet to 13000 RPM.
Step 4. Put down your tach
Step 5. Turn the H jet IN (yes, IN) 3/4 of a turn.

So, not having a dig at ya because ya didnt know, but the "richen the H jet" solution is a bad one...

STK
 
The factory actually send out 2 vital peices of information to the dealers. 1 is an operators manual, the other is a workshop manual. As a guess I would say 1% of dealers have actually read them.


With the 575, its not a case of "set low jet, set high jet with tach to high rpm"


I have posted the tuning manual somewhere on AS... Ill see if I can find it


Basicaly here is how its done.


Step 1. Set L jet as per normal.
Step 2. Set Idle as per normal.
Step 3. Grab your tacho, set H jet to 13000 RPM.
Step 4. Put down your tach
Step 5. Turn the H jet IN (yes, IN) 3/4 of a turn.

So, not having a dig at ya because ya didnt know, but the "richen the H jet" solution is a bad one...

STK


Although mines been right on since bought in 05
that right there is good to know, glad you posted that.
 
That is interesting on the h jet setting I wonder why they designed it to adjust about the opposite of most saws. Do they have the limiter caps on the adjusters for that? if so you can only turn them about 3/4 turn anyhow so you might as well just screw them in all the way. on the h setting anyhow. You know I put a head on a 2.2 turbo crysler that was that way.. Something like 3/4 turn past 75 ftlbs for the torq specs on the head bolts. The head bolts actually stretch. You have to get new ones with the gasket when you buy the parts.

Yea I think Lake might just have a life outside of AS
 
That is interesting on the h jet setting I wonder why they designed it to adjust about the opposite of most saws. Do they have the limiter caps on the adjusters for that? if so you can only turn them about 3/4 turn anyhow so you might as well just screw them in all the way. on the h setting anyhow. You know I put a head on a 2.2 turbo crysler that was that way.. Something like 3/4 turn past 75 ftlbs for the torq specs on the head bolts. The head bolts actually stretch. You have to get new ones with the gasket when you buy the parts.

Yea I think Lake might just have a life outside of AS


There are limiter caps, which need to be removed by the "saw tech" if hes doing the job properly... then put in place to stop joe bloggs mucking around. sometimes its best if he leaves them off as the end user can do it better!
 
There are limiter caps, which need to be removed by the "saw tech" if hes doing the job properly... then put in place to stop joe bloggs mucking around. sometimes its best if he leaves them off as the end user can do it better!

No wonder they suck at adjusting them thats gotta take at least an extra 10 min :)

I think the boys at RnD should have spent a little more time to make it work like most other saws. The L adjust is normal but the H adjust you:

Pull off the covers then the limiter cap then
Step 3. Grab your tacho, set H jet to 13000 RPM.
Step 4. Put down your tach
Step 5. Turn the H jet IN (yes, IN) 3/4 of a turn.

Or you can just get a proven, lighter, and simpler saw for the same money. You can adjust it by sticking a screw driver in and turning the adjuster. No tach necessary. The "Saw Techs" might even get it right. Sometimes its the simplest things that can kill a saws rep. I am sure if RnD put a little more time into that little detail the 575 wouldn't get the bad rep.. A lot of people that have them properly tuned like them I'm sure. You know its actually kind of like adjusting a 66RL but they at least had a built in tach... And richening instead of leaning after the rpm is hit. Hmmm good idea I would buy a 575 redlight special :) Even a monkey could adjust it then :) :monkey: OHHHHHH AHHHHH Pretty light must have :)
 
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