Jonsered Turbo 2094

[pioneerguy600]

I have just acquired a Jonsered Torbo 2094 and would like to know if it would be beneficial to do a muffler mod. on it. If so what size holes should be put in and any other mods to baffles etc. If there is a post on doing this to a similar model and someone wants to direct me to it that would also be appreciated and yes I did use the search function and did not come up with mods to this saw or ones around this size.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Jacob J.]

I have just acquired a Jonsered Torbo 2094 and would like to know if it would be beneficial to do a muffler mod. on it. If so what size holes should be put in and any other mods to baffles etc. If there is a post on doing this to a similar model and someone wants to direct me to it that would also be appreciated and yes I did use the search function and did not come up with mods to this saw or ones around this size.
Pioneerguy600

Hey Jerry-

The muffler is the weak point on those Jonsereds. Otherwise, they're an absolutely outstanding saw. I usually just a make hole identical to the stock outlet on the opposite side of the muffler and mount the Husky exhaust deflector.

 

[PB]

Hey Jerry,

I would suggest a 3/8" hole in accompany with the stock holes. No real math, just a suggestion. Trade a P60 for it? LOL.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Hey Jerry-

The muffler is the weak point on those Jonsereds. Otherwise, they're an absolutely outstanding saw. I usually just a make hole identical to the stock outlet on the opposite side of the muffler and mount the Husky exhaust deflector.

Ok thanks Jacob that sounds do able and I will check to see if there is clearance.
Pioneerguy600

 

[warjohn]

Would the same mufler mod work on my 2077.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Hey Jerry,

I would suggest a 3/8" hole in accompany with the stock holes. No real math, just a suggestion. Trade a P60 for it? LOL.

Currently it has only one outlet on the clutch side sort of behind the chainbrake handle, so if I put another outlet on the opposite side of the muffler around the stock size of the current outlet would it need another 3/8" hole also?
It is a very low hour saw, the paint is still on the muffler. the owner told me it was always too hard for him to pull it over to get started so he next to never used it and wanted a smaller saw that was easier to start.Did these saws come with an Oregon bar when new, he said it was the original bar and chain on it?
Pioneerguy600

 

[PB]

Would the same mufler mod work on my 2077.

Probably, just a general muffler mod. Just re-adjust your carb after the mod.

 

[PB]

Currently it has only one outlet on the clutch side sort of behind the chainbrake handle, so if I put another outlet on the opposite side of the muffler around the stock size of the current outlet would it need another 3/8" hole also?
It is a very low hour saw, the paint is still on the muffler. the owner told me it was always too hard for him to pull it over to get started so he next to never used it and wanted a smaller saw that was easier to start.Did these saws come with an Oregon bar when new, he said it was the original bar and chain on it?
Pioneerguy600

From what I gather, the 2094 is a pretty "hot" saw from the factory compared to the 2095. I am not sure what a muffler mod will do for performance, mind you that I have never run one. Jonsered saws have come with Tsumara, GB, Windsor, and Oregon bars. If it is a replaceable nose it will give it away with the number of rivets and pattern.

 

[Jacob J.]

Would the same mufler mod work on my 2077.

It sure would. You can rivet the Husky exhaust deflector on there or use an additional deflector identical to the one that's currently on the muffler, and point it in basically the same direction. Don't forget to richen your carb.

 

[Jacob J.]

Currently it has only one outlet on the clutch side sort of behind the chainbrake handle, so if I put another outlet on the opposite side of the muffler around the stock size of the current outlet would it need another 3/8" hole also?
It is a very low hour saw, the paint is still on the muffler. the owner told me it was always too hard for him to pull it over to get started so he next to never used it and wanted a smaller saw that was easier to start.Did these saws come with an Oregon bar when new, he said it was the original bar and chain on it?
Pioneerguy600

Depending on where that 2094 was sold, Oregon usually made the bars for them and painted them in Jonsered colors with the Jonsered logo.

Some of the 930 Supers that had the Western package that were sold here and in B.C. had a Cannon bar on them from the factory. They had Cannon ship the bars directly to the dealers.

 

[pioneerguy600]

From what I gather, the 2094 is a pretty "hot" saw from the factory compared to the 2095. I am not sure what a muffler mod will do for performance, mind you that I have never run one. Jonsered saws have come with Tsumara, GB, Windsor, and Oregon bars. If it is a replaceable nose it will give it away with the number of rivets and pattern.

It is a Oregon replaceable tip bar with the original grey paint on it with next to no wear, the bar is stamped [ Oregon 8090 GSN , 248---DO24 ]
The tip has one rivet that holds it in place.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Jacob J.]

From what I gather, the 2094 is a pretty "hot" saw from the factory compared to the 2095. I am not sure what a muffler mod will do for performance, mind you that I have never run one.

The 2094 has low, wide ports very similar to the Husky 2100 or Stihl 038 Magnum. Very torquey saws designed to run a longer bar in softwoods or a bigger sprocket in hardwoods.

I wouldn't get crazy opening up the muffler but a small additional outlet is beneficial.

 

[pioneerguy600]

This saw could really use a decomp ,its a brute to turn over, only way to start is by the drop start method.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Jacob J.]

This saw could really use a decomp ,its a brute to turn over, only way to start is by the drop start method.
Pioneerguy600

I ported a 2094 for a guy in Wisconsin once, and made a pop-up piston for it with a new OEM 2101xp full-circle piston. He's only used it twice in three years because it has so much compression.

 

[PB]

This saw could really use a decomp ,its a brute to turn over, only way to start is by the drop start method.
Pioneerguy600

LOL. so could most of the big JReds.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Most Oregon bars that I have are a light grey in color and have the Oregon stencilled on in orange/red paint, this bar is all a darker grey and the Oregon logo is stamped in the bar right back by the bar slot.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Jacob J.]

Most Oregon bars that I have are a light grey in color and have the Oregon stencilled on in orange/red paint, this bar is all a darker grey and the Oregon logo is stamped in the bar right back by the bar slot.
Pioneerguy600

That's an older bar, much older than the 2094 is. Most likely it was new old stock in the delaership when the original owner bought that 2094.

 

[pioneerguy600]

That's an older bar, much older than the 2094 is. Most likely it was new old stock in the delaership when the original owner bought that 2094.

Ok thanks for the info, I will go easy on the muffler mod and see what if any improvement is gained, its pretty good as it is, real tight and I will take a comp test tomorrow at the shop, I know its high.
Pioneerguy600

 

[BIGBORE577]

I too have a low hour 2094 that I got from the original owner for the same reason, he couldn't start it. He told me he would remove the B&C, start the saw, let it warm up at idle, reinstall the B&C and restart it. Sounds pretty crazy to me and I don't know how that would make it any easier to start. However, I certainly can understand why it wasn't used much especially since it was a 36" bar he was taking on and off every time. I must admit it was a real PITA to get going at first, to the point I thought something was wrong with the starter mechanism. The cord would just plumb stop dead about a third of the way through the pull. I eventually got the hang of it's idiosyncrasies and now it's not bad at all. I bring it to TDC and with a quick hard jerk on the cord, it works fine. You will get a feel for it after a few times. I'm glad you brought up the muffler mod issue, I'd be interested in that myself.

 

[PB]

It is a Oregon replaceable tip bar with the original grey paint on it with next to no wear, the bar is stamped [ Oregon 8090 GSN , 248---DO24 ]
The tip has one rivet that holds it in place.
Pioneerguy600

Hey Jerry, just noticed that your bar has the wrong mount for that saw. The 2094 takes the regular 009 mount. The D024 is for the older JReds, the 70E and the like with the 10mm studs.