My splitter build

[ericjeeper]

Mine has a drop down

total pain in the caboose.. trying to get the pin lined up.. You have to lift it above the final work height.. How much was the jack? 25-30 bucks?
It will give you the chance to always have a level working platform,no matter the terrain.. just my .02

 

[BackYardBuilt]

I like it. :greenchainsaw:

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Is your valve an auto return? I'm gonna start my splitter here in the next month or so and I really want an auto return but I'm not sure what to buy or how that works.
I've got everything for my splitter collected minus pump and valve.

Here is a link to Prince Autocycle valve. Good info under autocycle manual.

Model RD 5200

http://www.princehyd.com/Default.aspx?tabid=46

For those that are interested, this is the Prince part number for the autocycle valve. RD523MMEE5A1A1

Seems kinda dangerous to me, but you pull the handle once and it fully extends and retracts automatically. Wouldn't work so well with stuff that you only need a 1/4 cycle to pop, but if your whole stack is stringy stuff that you have to split down to the last fiber, it might save some time.

Put your wood in... pull the lever, go get the next piece. Suggested retail price $419 Edit... called Dalton Hydraulics, actual price $287.

Ian

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Beam mounted, tongue jack mounted, table fabbed up but not mounted. Ready for an acetone wipedown and some primer.

 

[England14]

Looking good! It always makes me feel good when things start to come together.

 

[super3]

For those that are interested, this is the Prince part number for the autocycle valve. RD523MMEE5A1A1

Seems kinda dangerous to me, but you pull the handle once and it fully extends and retracts automatically. Wouldn't work so well with stuff that you only need a 1/4 cycle to pop, but if your whole stack is stringy stuff that you have to split down to the last fiber, it might save some time.

Put your wood in... pull the lever, go get the next piece. Suggested retail price $419 Edit... called Dalton Hydraulics, actual price $287.

Ian

Can the auto cycle be canceled by just bumping the lever for the short splits?

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Probably, but I don't know. Give Mike Bocian a call at 712-252-6265. He's the Prince Rep I was talking to. It's a 2 spool valve and you pull both levers simultaneously...seems like they would link them or something. I've attached the pdf he sent me.

Ian

 

[triptester]

Page 7 gives a good explanation of the AutoCycle valve operation and yes it can be short stroked with a single handle.

One thing I noticed is that the maximum allowable valve pressure is limited to 2000 psi.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Got the last coat of paint on today... Ford Blue is a little brighter than I thought it would be LOL.. Would have painted the beam, but a sandblaster would have been needed. You can see where I started to try to clean it up with a 4.5" grinder. It would have taken hours...

Still no engine. Went to a place on Friday with a bunch of mower carcasses and the largest one they had was a 15hp Kohler Command. Just barely marginal. I know where there's a 20hp side shaft Briggs that was on a sawmill but they want $200 for it and then I'd have to buy the bell housing to mount the pump for another $60. I might still go that route if I don't come up with something soon.

Ian

 

[ericjeeper]

Ian it has came a long way.

Why no paint on the beam?
Everything looks well thought out. I can only see one thing I would change and that is the two ears sticking out from the end of the beam over the table.. Those might possibly injure a finger , and will make dragging the wood back to the splitter beam a pain.
As for the Power plant the 260$ for a for sure engine, would be better money spent over a 150 $ maybe engine set up.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I didn't bother with painting the beam because of sheer laziness. It's got a good coat of oil soaked corrosion that would require a lot of cleanup before paint would stick. I figure it needs a sand blaster to strip it properly.

I left those tabs high because I figure I'll eventually have plywood on there instead of that piece of sheet aluminum that's on there now and I didn't want it to stick above beam level. The table is bolted to those tabs too. They're made out of 3/8" diamond plate.

I'm hesitant about the engine because it's a horizontal shaft. In order to get the pump mounted below fluid level, I would have to mount the engine behind the tank and low instead of up high with the pump hanging below it. I see it making it more likely that I would back the engine into something. The advantage of it would be simplicity of the pump mount and the fact that the fuel tank and throttle/choke/kill switch are integral to the engine instead of remote like a mower engine.

On that subject, I am assuming that having the pump run dry until it can lift the fluid to it is a bad thing and would introduce air into the system every time you start it. If not, then it simplifies things somewhat.

Ian

 

[kevin j]

Q thing I noticed is that the maximum allowable valve pressure is limited to 2000 psi. Q



And it appears the spool will come out of detent at 1500 psi. So basically autocycling will max at 1500 psi. I assume one could hold the lever manually and get 2000 psi, but that still seems low to me.

k

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Kevin, what do you think about the pump being above fluid level? It would probably would be about 12" max if I mounted the horizontal shaft engine high.

I was sitting here thinking that if it's a closed system (cap isn't vented) and both the intake and the return are below fluid level then once it primes the first time, it shouldn't introduce air back into the system and should hold the prime when shut off.

Ian

 

[gink595]

I'm hesitant about the engine because it's a horizontal shaft. In order to get the pump mounted below fluid level, I would have to mount the engine behind the tank and low instead of up high with the pump hanging below it. I see it making it more likely that I would back the engine into something. The advantage of it would be simplicity of the pump mount and the fact that the fuel tank and throttle/choke/kill switch are integral to the engine instead of remote like a mower engine.

On that subject, I am assuming that having the pump run dry until it can lift the fluid to it is a bad thing and would introduce air into the system every time you start it. If not, then it simplifies things somewhat.

Ian

Here's my thoughts on the pump below fluid level, it doesn't matter. It won't run dry. There is to much stuff out there that has the pumps way abopve the resivior, my Bobcat for one is like that, in the 1200 hrs. I have on it, it has never had a problem. Plus my splitter's pump is a good 1'-6" above the tank. I think people just are analyzing problems that really don't exist, it sounds like it should be the thing to do but I have yet to have a problem with my setup.


I have 10 cord or so on this splitter. The pump is still kicking!!!

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Hmm.. if that's the case, then that horizontal engine may be just the ticket...

Ian

 

[ray benson]

I was sitting here thinking that if it's a closed system (cap isn't vented) and both the intake and the return are below fluid level then once it primes the first time, it shouldn't introduce air back into the system and should hold the prime when shut off.

Ian

My pump is a couple inches above the hydraulic tank level. No problems since installation in the late 1980's. I would vent the hydraulic tank. Oil temp goes up and down along with fluid being sucked out and fluid returned to the tank. Kevin or someone else could give reasons for venting.

 

[triptester]

The pump being below fluid level is the best location. When the pump is located above fluid level the possibility of pump damage increases due to lack or loss of prime. Just like riding a bike without a helmet, ride a thousand miles no problem but fall and hit your head once.

As far as a hydraulic system without a vent that depends if the system is specifically designed that way. Most of the time tanks and filters are not made to contain more than a few pounds of pressure. In a closed system pressure can raise quickly with fluid temperature rise.

 

[triptester]

Here is an excellent article on design , purpose ,and function of hydraulic tanks and their components.

http://www.hydraulicspneumatics.com.../Article/False/84402/TechZone-ReservoirsAcces

 

[turnkey4099]

Pump above tank may be alright once it is primed but on firsts fire up it runs dry...or at least with only assembly oil. I would at least try to fill the pump before firing the first time.

I really don't understand the hangup on making the tank horizontal and holding the axles. Very simple to put a big verticle tank on, it would be out of the way and remove any doubts about pump location. That is what I did on my homebuilt and if I were to build another it would also be a verticle tank.

Harry K

 

[jags]

Vent that tank. You don't want the possibility of pressure building up in it.

The reality is that once your pump is primed, even if it looses prime (sits), there is still going to be some residual oil in the pump. Typically enough to keep it lubed until it can pull oil back up to it.

It is true that the best location for a pump is below oil level, but lots of equipment is not built that way. That is not saying that is the best way, just saying that it happens.

BUT>>>> make sure you introduce some fluid to the pump BEFORE you try to fire it up for the first time.

Looking good on the splitter build. Keep those pics coming.

Edit: it figures..Harry beat me to the punch.