McCulloch Chain Saws

[steven221]

Mac 110help needed

Gary...that saw looks pretty darn good to me!!!


Great Score!

I see you list a McCullock mac 110 in the post I am desperate for a manual & ipls
no one here in Holland can repair it and I cant separate the housing to get at the carbi and fuel lines If you can help me in any way or lead me in the right direction I would sure appreciate it
Steven221

 

[ProMac1K]

Question.......

What's stronger, a Titan 57 or Titan 560? This has been bugging me for some time. What did they improve on with the 560?

 

[GASoline71]

I've heard that the 797 and SP125 have the same basic design as far as the engine goes. So will the coil/ignition/plugwire swap over from those 2 saws?

Gary

 

[leeha]

I've heard that the 797 and SP125 have the same basic design as far as the engine goes. So will the coil/ignition/plugwire swap over from those 2 saws?

Gary

I can't give a positive answer but looking at the SP125
IPL they have a 2 leg coil and the 797 has a 3 leg coil.
I don't know if there interchangeable, I think the bolt
pattern will be different.
A 3 leg coil should be very easy to find. They were used
on most all of the older Mac's.


Lee

 

[GASoline71]

Cool! Thanks Lee...

Gary

 

[hoss]

The 797 actually has more in common with the 101 kart motor than a 125sp.

 

[RandyMac]

797s had a few more beans spread through out the powerband. They feel more positive, no AV flex, no intake boot, a simpler design, more durable than the "upgraded" SP/CP models.

 

[briantutt]

Oil tank repair

Finally found a couple hours to get the PM 650 put back together. I now need to bolt the repaired oil tank on. I am sure the tank is very clean as I ran it through the dishwasher but what works best to clean the bar oil of the case side where the silicon goes so I can be sure it will seal? I plan on using sensor safe blue silicon gasketing material unless I hear otherwise here ...

 

[ProMac1K]

I would use some parts solvent, brake & parts cleaner, or contact cleaner if you didn't have the other, and then dress the mating surfaces with whatever material you have, to get a clean finish.

I don't think Mac was fussy on what RTV to use, either.

 

[briantutt]

I would use some parts solvent, brake & parts cleaner, or contact cleaner if you didn't have the other, and then dress the mating surfaces with whatever material you have, to get a clean finish.

I don't think Mac was fussy on what RTV to use, either.

I just spent about an hour picking and cleaning all the oily sawdust from EVERYWHERE...used some foaming degreaser, compressed air and finally a whole can of carb cleaner...The jug might actually be able to breathe now.

I do have brake cleaner. I will clean off the remaining RTV with a razor blade and then give a blast of brake cleaner...(that stuff hates paint though...)

Then back on the tank goes. Thanks for the tips

 

[hoss]

797s had a few more beans spread through out the powerband. They feel more positive, no AV flex, no intake boot, a simpler design, more durable than the "upgraded" SP/CP models.

Yes, yes and...........yes.

 

[briantutt]

Tank on and clean

Here are a couple pics of the progress...

 

[ProMac1K]

I just spent about an hour picking and cleaning all the oily sawdust from EVERYWHERE...used some foaming degreaser, compressed air and finally a whole can of carb cleaner...The jug might actually be able to breathe now.

I do have brake cleaner. I will clean off the remaining RTV with a razor blade and then give a blast of brake cleaner...(that stuff hates paint though...)

Then back on the tank goes. Thanks for the tips

I love brake and parts cleaner, I buy it by the case! Carb cleaner as well!

I've experimented with a lot of brands, and tend to be real fussy about my aerosol cleaners. A lot of the brake cleaners out there don't dry worth a hoot. They may look dry, but if you feel the surface, most of them leave a damp and oily surface. If yours does, just dress the surface after and blow everything clean. I favor a generic "store brand" aerosol cleaner over all the big name brands, for the drying effect of it.

Oh, and I did everything to perfection as much as possible when I was rebuilding diesel injection pumps. Here's some steps if you want a really good surface (hint: I was after an A1 job, rather than production). Scrape the gasket surface clean with a razor. Clean the housing in a bead blaster (if you don't have blaster, go onto next step). Dress the surface with scotch-brite pads (I use the die grinder discs). Clean the housing with solvent, or run it through a washer. If you run it through a washer, rinse and clean it with solvent after. Blow it dry. Dress the surface with scotch-brite again if necessary. Then get a small propane torch and run the tip at an angle around the sealing surface (burning any film that has been left on the surface, and going at an angle to push any leftover film along so you don't leave any). Here's where you would apply the sealant. In the pump application, you would have gaskets to seal the mating surfaces. I used weatherstripping adhesive in a light bead around the sealing surface, and then tacked the gasket in place. This prevented any misalignment of the gasket during installation, as you would leave the piece disassembled until it was fully cured. The heat from dressing the surface with the torch also cured the adhesive real fast.

Just thought I would share this with you.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Take a look at this Mac 3514 with my custom-made chain brake arm:

Another view:

I also made the scabbard for the bar and chain and added a scrench holder. All are made with hickory, cherry, and tempered hardboard. Now do you see why I still use this great saw?

 

[ProMac1K]

Ugh.......................................... :jawdrop:

http://cgi.ebay.com/McCulloch-Doubl...in_0?hash=item20acfcfbb4&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

http://cgi.ebay.com/Chain-Saw-Brand...in_0?hash=item4399b9ec36&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Why do these types of saws come around at the worst :censored: time of the year, two months before the crop comes out to be sold, and right when i've got a nickel to my name.

Although they'll more than likely sell for way more than what street price would be, but still its neat to know there is still some in circulation. But why at the poorest time of year for me.

On the plus side, hopefully since i've posted this here, someone deserving from here may be interested in them and can get them. Maybe even post about them. Who knows, maybe both are from someone on here. ???

 

[porky616]

i need some advice on a cp125 i just got from a mate how works at the local rubbish tip, its all complete minus the bar but i cant seem to get any spark out of it. ive cleaned all the points and checked all the gaps, changed spark plug, disconnected kill switch but still no go. im guessing this is why it was thrown out. any help would be much appreciated thanks aaron

 

[leeha]

i need some advice on a cp125 i just got from a mate how works at the local rubbish tip, its all complete minus the bar but i cant seem to get any spark out of it. ive cleaned all the points and checked all the gaps, changed spark plug, disconnected kill switch but still no go. im guessing this is why it was thrown out. any help would be much appreciated thanks aaron

The points are the number 1 cause for no spark.
Did you remove them when you cleaned them.
I usually take them out and clean with Brake cleaner
then sand with 320 grit paper on a piece of glass.
Get them nice a smooth.
You could also have a bad condenser or coil. They can
be found very easily. Are you checking the spark with
a new spark plug?


Lee

 

[porky616]

i took it right out and rubbed it down with some fine grit, im out of brake cleaner at the moment, will get some and give it a good clean up. i cant see any marks or carbon build up on the piston and it seems to have good compression. im not familiar mcculloch saws so its all new to me

 

[heimannm]

Check the condensor, and check the coil to make sure the grip (that holds to the top of the spark plug) is making contact with the plug wire. Both can be checked easily with a simple Volt Ohm Meter.

You can check the condensor with a simple VOM set to measure resistance, touch the leads one way and it should read as an open, switch the leads around and you should get just a little jump of the needle before it reads open again. What you are doing is charging the condensor with the meter, then detecting the discharge back through the meter.

Check the coil, should be low resistance between the primary lead and ground (where the points connect) and relatively high resistance, 2-4K ohms between the secondary lead (coil wire) and ground.

You can also check to make sure the points will conduct when closed just to verify that they are clean and making contact.

My guess is either a bad condensor or coil (wire). Most likely an easy fix.

If that doesn't work let me know what the postage would be and I'll take it off your hands...

Mark

 

[stinkbait]

I got a free 1-70 this weekend. I think that a full rebuild will be needed. Low to no compression, but it looks good overall, just dirty. I will post some pics tomorrow.