the old angled backcut is the first sign. It helps stop the tree from going backwards and guides the tree - did you know that?
:greenchainsaw:
the old angled backcut is the first sign. It helps stop the tree from going backwards and guides the tree - did you know that?
As a rule, always cut at full throttle. Chainsaws can run lean at part throttle. The above noted exceptions are fine.
Another issue when cutting at reduced throttle is the chance of clutch slippage and heat buildup which can be bad news especially with inboard clutch saws.
Another issue when cutting at reduced throttle is the chance of clutch slippage and heat buildup which can be bad news especially with inboard clutch saws.
Run it how you want it. If it's tuned correctly, there shouldn't be a problem. A lean condition is usually an issue at WOT. There is also multi stages of the low circuit. WOT in the cut and feather it when needed. Think more about your cutting and less about the saw. They aren't built that temperamental.
I run WOT...
...right up until my bar gets pinched.
Wide open throttle, right to the hinge.
Here ya go Brian.
Uh....All of it.So, just am curious, how should one operate the chainsaw when cutting, I am only using a chainsaw once in a while, either taking down the last of my trees which I just did recently, or while out hunting to cut firewood, so am curious should one rev up full as you apply the chain to the wood or a moderate amount till it starts to cut then should you be full throttle or just enough throttle to cut through?
Wondering if I am not using the saw in the proper manner.
Run it how you want it. If it's tuned correctly, there shouldn't be a problem. A lean condition is usually an issue at WOT. ......
I believe the issue discussed here is with "halv throttle", as there are no halv throttle jets in the carbs? Carb tuning is not relevant regarding that issue.
Anyway, I don't think a little "feathring" makes any harm, as you said!
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