Don't know if I'm doing this right but I'm trying to reply to all the feedback to the vid that Cody posted in one spot with some added BS, so here is a mouthful. Thank you for the complements and the ravings on Ugly dog. He is my best pard. Yeah, the saw was modded by woods in Cedro. I did a quite a bit to it though. I advanced the timing, went over all of there port work with a non-aggressive burr and smoothed the heck out of everything. Took the exhaust port out a bunch more on the cylinder. Made 5 fuel oxidizer ditch's in the intake. Completely removed the box inside the muffler so I could fit a pipe in it that I attached to the faceplate. You can not have much pipe sticking out of your saw if you are falling with it so I had the Idea to start my pipe on the inside. It took me forever to get the back pressure right, and must have put 10 different sized pipes on it before I got it right. I would tell you the exact sizes, but then I would take the fun out of it for you. All I will say is that you need to use fittings that will withstand the heat, make your first pipe big, then neck it down with a smaller fitting and figure out how to do it in a three inch space, and don't leave more that a 1/4 inch of pipe sticking out of your face plate, for it will hit the tree when you are falling and bucking and break your muffler off where it bolts to the cylinder. When you take the box out completely it weakens the muffler where it bolts on. My chains?........lots and lots of time spent in the saw shop when I should have been playing with my kids. The best advice I can give is when you work around a guy that has a chain that is working better that yours don't let foolish pride deprive you of advancing your chain's performance. Admit to yourself that there chain is better, and ask allot of questions, and if he is nice enough to let you have one of his runouts study the hell out of it. Break a left and a right cutter off and investigate every aspect, from the sideplate angle to the top plate angle. Most people do not realize the important roll that the sideplate plays in the performance of a chain, and it is actually more critical that any other part of the chain. Although I love Madsen's, don't put too much stock in there chain articles. They do get quite a bit of stuff right, but they do not have a guy in the brush on the payroll. They take information that they deem credible from there sources in the brush and compile it in there yearly catalog. I got one heck of a kick out of there article on the applications of full comp, semi, and full skip chain and the cutting speeds on various saws and bar lengths. Wasted words. No matter what wood you are cutting, saw you are running, or length bar you are using a properly ground and maintained full comp chain will cut faster, smoother, and longer that a full or semi skip chain. You just have to put the time in to it. I never did get good at grinding chain until I understood what every part of the chain did, and realized that I was not Ty Murray with a chainsaw, which sadly was only a few years back. lol.....Holy smokes that was a mouthful....but wait....theres more. lol. Really though, how I got my rigging to working good, and my undercuts to falling out like they should, is realizing that every cutter has something to offer that will make me better. Sometimes it's what not to do, but most cutters in the brush, you will find do something with a chainsaw better that you do, and if your the best cutter in the brush it's real damn hard to figure just what that is. This retarded my progression for years. I probably should have posted this elsewhere, but am new to this site. I figured with the notoriety my brother from another mother created for me on here that I probably should participate.
