Falling pics 11/25/09

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Ive heard orange is the best color, Ive heard blue is the best Ive heard broken up patterns are best so I tried this. It is very visible even in fallen red/orange maple leaves.
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I did something similar, except I wrapped the whole handle in red/black stripes.
 
Trouper's are pretty strong axe's before the jomoke cut mine in half it was the tightest axe head I have used never loosened up once. Not sure what they do different but sure works compared to the ones in the past.
 
I used to always paint my handles...just for that stray tree once in a while that tops out on top of your axe...it is a lot easier to see a neon orange handle under a bunch of brush...then again, it is a lot easier to see it so that you don't gun a tree at it too :)

Yep!:cheers:
 
No pics, just a story!

No pics for this one, but a story I was reminded of today when talking to an old friend. Good for a laugh, so thought I'd share!

My buddy was falling right of way for a setting a few years back. He was used to working with a particular grade hoe operator for years. The regular guy had to go work a different heading so a new guy was brought on. No big deal. So the first day my buddy and his partner go to work, on their way out they come across the new operator pioneering behind them. Looks good, but no walk logs laid out for them. It's fall and raining hard on the coast, things can get pretty soupy on the freshly disturbed r/w and walk logs are a necessity for some areas.

No problem, it's the guys first day, my buddy cuts him some slack and politely asks him to leave some walk logs for them when he's done for the day. The operator apologizes profusely and promises to do it.

Next day they show up, no walk logs. Quick reminder to the operator on their way by and off to work. End of the day, still no walk logs. Now my buddy is starting to get a bit irritated, but keeps his cool. Asks again for walk logs, same answer. Sorry forgot about it! Will do it on my way out tonight!

Third day, no walk logs for the walk in. By this time the operator has pioneered quite a ways in now and the rest of the grade crew hasn't made it over to this heading yet to surface the road so it's getting to be quite the walk in deep muck. My buddy stops and talks again to the operator on their way by. Same anwer yet again!

End of the day they come out, and yep, you guessed it! No walk logs! My buddy is seething now! Smoke coming out of his ears and from under his hard hat. Doesn't say a thing, slogs past the operator and out to the crummies. He grabs a shovel and walks out to the operators crummy. He opens the windows and proceeds to fill the crummy up to the dashboard with the same sloppy muck they've been walking through! Right to window level!

Funny thing! Next day there was a nice walk log trail right to the f&b!
 
.


Similiar to stories I have heard about machine tool operators not cleaning a machine after a job, then getting their toolbox filled with chips...


.
 
A limby tree. For some reason, I was expecting him to vault off at the end, but he didn't. Probably a good thing too.

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I hate to admit it Cody, but vaulting is starting to hurt......must have somthing to do with miles for I still look like I'm 20. Ha
 
I hate to admit it Cody, but vaulting is starting to hurt......must have somthing to do with miles for I still look like I'm 20. Ha

Is Ugly Hound still alive? I'm trying to use him/her as a role model for my lazy boy, who is snoring away in his bed at this late hour....and tries to brush off his dog pack, whines so much I end up emptying his pack and putting all the gear in my pack...............and so on. :D
 
Trying to reply to all the feed back on the video. New to this site.

Don't know if I'm doing this right but I'm trying to reply to all the feedback to the vid that Cody posted in one spot with some added BS, so here is a mouthful. Thank you for the complements and the ravings on Ugly dog. He is my best pard. Yeah, the saw was modded by woods in Cedro. I did a quite a bit to it though. I advanced the timing, went over all of there port work with a non-aggressive burr and smoothed the heck out of everything. Took the exhaust port out a bunch more on the cylinder. Made 5 fuel oxidizer ditch's in the intake. Completely removed the box inside the muffler so I could fit a pipe in it that I attached to the faceplate. You can not have much pipe sticking out of your saw if you are falling with it so I had the Idea to start my pipe on the inside. It took me forever to get the back pressure right, and must have put 10 different sized pipes on it before I got it right. I would tell you the exact sizes, but then I would take the fun out of it for you. All I will say is that you need to use fittings that will withstand the heat, make your first pipe big, then neck it down with a smaller fitting and figure out how to do it in a three inch space, and don't leave more that a 1/4 inch of pipe sticking out of your face plate, for it will hit the tree when you are falling and bucking and break your muffler off where it bolts to the cylinder. When you take the box out completely it weakens the muffler where it bolts on. My chains?........lots and lots of time spent in the saw shop when I should have been playing with my kids. The best advice I can give is when you work around a guy that has a chain that is working better that yours don't let foolish pride deprive you of advancing your chain's performance. Admit to yourself that there chain is better, and ask allot of questions, and if he is nice enough to let you have one of his runouts study the hell out of it. Break a left and a right cutter off and investigate every aspect, from the sideplate angle to the top plate angle. Most people do not realize the important roll that the sideplate plays in the performance of a chain, and it is actually more critical that any other part of the chain. Although I love Madsen's, don't put too much stock in there chain articles. They do get quite a bit of stuff right, but they do not have a guy in the brush on the payroll. They take information that they deem credible from there sources in the brush and compile it in there yearly catalog. I got one heck of a kick out of there article on the applications of full comp, semi, and full skip chain and the cutting speeds on various saws and bar lengths. Wasted words. No matter what wood you are cutting, saw you are running, or length bar you are using a properly ground and maintained full comp chain will cut faster, smoother, and longer that a full or semi skip chain. You just have to put the time in to it. I never did get good at grinding chain until I understood what every part of the chain did, and realized that I was not Ty Murray with a chainsaw, which sadly was only a few years back. lol.....Holy smokes that was a mouthful....but wait....theres more. lol. Really though, how I got my rigging to working good, and my undercuts to falling out like they should, is realizing that every cutter has something to offer that will make me better. Sometimes it's what not to do, but most cutters in the brush, you will find do something with a chainsaw better that you do, and if your the best cutter in the brush it's real damn hard to figure just what that is. This retarded my progression for years. I probably should have posted this elsewhere, but am new to this site. I figured with the notoriety my brother from another mother created for me on here that I probably should participate.
 
Don't know if I'm doing this right but I'm trying to reply to all the feedback to the vid that Cody posted in one spot with some added BS, so here is a mouthful. Thank you for the complements and the ravings on Ugly dog. He is my best pard. Yeah, the saw was modded by woods in Cedro. I did a quite a bit to it though. I advanced the timing, went over all of there port work with a non-aggressive burr and smoothed the heck out of everything. Took the exhaust port out a bunch more on the cylinder. Made 5 fuel oxidizer ditch's in the intake. Completely removed the box inside the muffler so I could fit a pipe in it that I attached to the faceplate. You can not have much pipe sticking out of your saw if you are falling with it so I had the Idea to start my pipe on the inside. It took me forever to get the back pressure right, and must have put 10 different sized pipes on it before I got it right. I would tell you the exact sizes, but then I would take the fun out of it for you. All I will say is that you need to use fittings that will withstand the heat, make your first pipe big, then neck it down with a smaller fitting and figure out how to do it in a three inch space, and don't leave more that a 1/4 inch of pipe sticking out of your face plate, for it will hit the tree when you are falling and bucking and break your muffler off where it bolts to the cylinder. When you take the box out completely it weakens the muffler where it bolts on. My chains?........lots and lots of time spent in the saw shop when I should have been playing with my kids. The best advice I can give is when you work around a guy that has a chain that is working better that yours don't let foolish pride deprive you of advancing your chain's performance. Admit to yourself that there chain is better, and ask allot of questions, and if he is nice enough to let you have one of his runouts study the hell out of it. Break a left and a right cutter off and investigate every aspect, from the sideplate angle to the top plate angle. Most people do not realize the important roll that the sideplate plays in the performance of a chain, and it is actually more critical that any other part of the chain. Although I love Madsen's, don't put too much stock in there chain articles. They do get quite a bit of stuff right, but they do not have a guy in the brush on the payroll. They take information that they deem credible from there sources in the brush and compile it in there yearly catalog. I got one heck of a kick out of there article on the applications of full comp, semi, and full skip chain and the cutting speeds on various saws and bar lengths. Wasted words. No matter what wood you are cutting, saw you are running, or length bar you are using a properly ground and maintained full comp chain will cut faster, smoother, and longer that a full or semi skip chain. You just have to put the time in to it. I never did get good at grinding chain until I understood what every part of the chain did, and realized that I was not Ty Murray with a chainsaw, which sadly was only a few years back. lol.....Holy smokes that was a mouthful....but wait....theres more. lol. Really though, how I got my rigging to working good, and my undercuts to falling out like they should, is realizing that every cutter has something to offer that will make me better. Sometimes it's what not to do, but most cutters in the brush, you will find do something with a chainsaw better that you do, and if your the best cutter in the brush it's real damn hard to figure just what that is. This retarded my progression for years. I probably should have posted this elsewhere, but am new to this site. I figured with the notoriety my brother from another mother created for me on here that I probably should participate.

Well said.
 
Hey Bro!

It's a good thing that you were partnered up with me all those years, so you could pick up all my wise tricks ay? :laugh: Just kiddin! I sure am glad to see you on here, and I am sure all the other regulars on here are glad as well to have you share some wisdom. I want that chainsaw all taken apart with all modded parts layin on a bench so I can photograph them when I get there!
 
Don't know if I'm doing this right but I'm trying to reply to all the feedback to the vid that Cody posted in one spot with some added BS, so here is a mouthful. Thank you for the complements and the ravings on Ugly dog. He is my best pard. Yeah, the saw was modded by woods in Cedro. I did a quite a bit to it though. I advanced the timing, went over all of there port work with a non-aggressive burr and smoothed the heck out of everything. Took the exhaust port out a bunch more on the cylinder. Made 5 fuel oxidizer ditch's in the intake. Completely removed the box inside the muffler so I could fit a pipe in it that I attached to the faceplate. You can not have much pipe sticking out of your saw if you are falling with it so I had the Idea to start my pipe on the inside. It took me forever to get the back pressure right, and must have put 10 different sized pipes on it before I got it right. I would tell you the exact sizes, but then I would take the fun out of it for you. All I will say is that you need to use fittings that will withstand the heat, make your first pipe big, then neck it down with a smaller fitting and figure out how to do it in a three inch space, and don't leave more that a 1/4 inch of pipe sticking out of your face plate, for it will hit the tree when you are falling and bucking and break your muffler off where it bolts to the cylinder. When you take the box out completely it weakens the muffler where it bolts on. My chains?........lots and lots of time spent in the saw shop when I should have been playing with my kids. The best advice I can give is when you work around a guy that has a chain that is working better that yours don't let foolish pride deprive you of advancing your chain's performance. Admit to yourself that there chain is better, and ask allot of questions, and if he is nice enough to let you have one of his runouts study the hell out of it. Break a left and a right cutter off and investigate every aspect, from the sideplate angle to the top plate angle. Most people do not realize the important roll that the sideplate plays in the performance of a chain, and it is actually more critical that any other part of the chain. Although I love Madsen's, don't put too much stock in there chain articles. They do get quite a bit of stuff right, but they do not have a guy in the brush on the payroll. They take information that they deem credible from there sources in the brush and compile it in there yearly catalog. I got one heck of a kick out of there article on the applications of full comp, semi, and full skip chain and the cutting speeds on various saws and bar lengths. Wasted words. No matter what wood you are cutting, saw you are running, or length bar you are using a properly ground and maintained full comp chain will cut faster, smoother, and longer that a full or semi skip chain. You just have to put the time in to it. I never did get good at grinding chain until I understood what every part of the chain did, and realized that I was not Ty Murray with a chainsaw, which sadly was only a few years back. lol.....Holy smokes that was a mouthful....but wait....theres more. lol. Really though, how I got my rigging to working good, and my undercuts to falling out like they should, is realizing that every cutter has something to offer that will make me better. Sometimes it's what not to do, but most cutters in the brush, you will find do something with a chainsaw better that you do, and if your the best cutter in the brush it's real damn hard to figure just what that is. This retarded my progression for years. I probably should have posted this elsewhere, but am new to this site. I figured with the notoriety my brother from another mother created for me on here that I probably should participate.

I've heard a lot about you from Cody (mostly good ;)). . . Welcome to Arboristsite!

Love your voice BTW! LOL

Very old school sounding, like a Bing Crosby, or Dean Martin. :D
 
I made my fellow "B" Buckers watch the video yesterday. Now when we have our next after a wind day of opening roads, we'll all be seriously cocking our hardhats!:biggrinbounce2:

Yes Slowp.....One cannot forget to Cock his hat. LOL. I learned the hat Cock from my old man. You never see that guy with his hat on straight!
 

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