RandyMac
Stiff Member
Let alone falling one.
why all the short bars on saws in this site ?
- Thread starter Trx250r180
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Let alone falling one.
This sums it up for me.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
This sums it up for me.
Oh my!
dieselsmoke
ArboristSite Operative
+1 on that. Steep ground does limit the access or exit path out here. A longer bar gives a guy a little more distance when in a tough situation. 32" + skip tooth+ full wraps= PNW.
I'm not a guy. Twinkle and Barbie have 28" bars. Look at the picture. We have hardwoods here in the PNW too. But not a lot go to the mill. Most of the guys run 32" bars on the job.
A long bar keeps your head away from a spring loaded alder or vine maple or ___________fill in the blank.
Many times it is best to be able to cut from one side of the tree--on a cow face of a hill.
The production cutters limb by walking on the tree, making ONE pass down it and hopping off to buck it into the correct lengths. Since we only have real live fallers on steep ground anymore, it is to their advantage to be able to buck the logs from the UPHILL side only.
We also use them just to give the non PNWers something to discuss.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
+1 on that. Steep ground does limit the access or exit path out here. A longer bar gives a guy a little more distance when in a tough situation. 32" + skip tooth+ full wraps= PNW.
And long spikes brother
Relative to tree size (in my book). Manhood optional!
No. What length is the cannon on what size tree? Looks close to same size. Nothing wrong with that either of course.
32" cannon 40+ tree
So ill ask this question again is a 16" bar excessive for 12" wood. Fallowing many peoples logic it is. Its 25% longer than the wood and a 40" bar in 60" wood is 30% shorter. So whose using excessivly long bars.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
I felt a bit undergunned with a 60" in 141" wood.
paccity
Addicted to ArboristSite
i do the same. i don't bend as good as i used to. i run a 32 on my 036pro. when im up in the green i will cut up some year down doug and alder. it's light and i don't do a lot of stooping, in 20 to30" wood it does fine. if it's work i'll switch over to the 66, which has a 32 on it to most of the time.. just what i do and use.
It isn't near long enough. Sixteen inches does not allow for enough STAND BACK room. I'm a bit paranoid about that. That aspect of the topic seems to get overlooked.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
This sums it up for me.
this is why the 20 inch or shorter bars scare me ,falling a alder or maple they can splinter and come at you when falling if im standing another foot or so back better comfort zone i have noticed if i think the trees leaning hard after my v-cut if i put couple side relief cuts before back cut less chance tree splinters like that
That tree was part of my learning curve. Since that tree, I have been given some good advice about cutting alders. Still, I want to be far away when cutting those snow bent road blocking beasties. I have found that they will be more prone to snap when the temperature is on the chilly side. That was the case for that tree.
It isn't near long enough. Sixteen inches does not allow for enough STAND BACK room. I'm a bit paranoid about that. That aspect of the topic seems to get overlooked.
Heres an idea perfect PNW falling and bucking saw=70-90cc 28-32" bar big dawgs wrap handle maybe this idea will catch on.
paccity
Addicted to ArboristSite
we have some elk hwy's here , but there not as nicely gravled and graded as yours up there.LOL.
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Ambull
OCD Muscle Saw Collector
I run a 24" bar on my 7900, and that is always the first saw I go to. For smaller stuff I use my Dolmar 5105 with an 18" bar. For bigger stuff I use the 395xp with a 28" bar. For huge stuff I pull out the 3120xp with a 36" bar. I don't like running the 36" really, but it is really nice to cut through a large trunk in one pass. If it is bigger than 36", I would use the 7900 with the 24" bar for two passes. I have never cut anything bigger than that.
Around here a big tree is 20-30" at the trunk.
Around here a big tree is 20-30" at the trunk.
Fronty Owner
ArboristSite Operative
I run an 18" bar too.
for this part of Oklahoma, cutting firewood, I dont need more than 18". 18" also makes for a nice measuring tool for firewood.
for this part of Oklahoma, cutting firewood, I dont need more than 18". 18" also makes for a nice measuring tool for firewood.
Yoopermike
ArboristSite Guru
That last tree would have been hard to cut with a short bar. I was on my toes and Twinkle was having to reach.
How can short people cut hangups without using long bars?
komatsuvarna
Arboristsite MVP
Im an East coaster, but Im not a logger or cutter. Im just a firewood junkie. Bout 90% of the people I know from here run a 18'' bar. The tree companys have saws with 28'' and 36'' bars, but they hardly get used....just from what very little Ive seen.
Ive got a 20'' and 28'' for my 70cc saw. While I find the 20'' lighter, I like the 28'' better for felling.....what few I get to fall
. Most of the reasons have been listed, but they main reason I like the longer bars is its easier for me to get the cuts right. Its alot easier to get the knotch cut level. When I start on the back cut its easier to tell if im in the right spot or not with a longer bar. Kinda like longer bar = longer sights.
Again, Im no pro, but I think the longer bars make it easier on my learning curve.
Ive got a 20'' and 28'' for my 70cc saw. While I find the 20'' lighter, I like the 28'' better for felling.....what few I get to fall
. Most of the reasons have been listed, but they main reason I like the longer bars is its easier for me to get the cuts right. Its alot easier to get the knotch cut level. When I start on the back cut its easier to tell if im in the right spot or not with a longer bar. Kinda like longer bar = longer sights.Again, Im no pro, but I think the longer bars make it easier on my learning curve.
