Poll: What model for the next AS build off??

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What model would you prefer to see in the next AS build off?

  • 044/MS440/046/MS460/Hybrid

    Votes: 27 14.1%
  • MS441

    Votes: 9 4.7%
  • MS261

    Votes: 4 2.1%
  • 026/MS260

    Votes: 11 5.8%
  • 066/MS660

    Votes: 28 14.7%
  • 346

    Votes: 24 12.6%
  • 385/390

    Votes: 11 5.8%
  • 394/395

    Votes: 11 5.8%
  • 7900

    Votes: 37 19.4%
  • Other

    Votes: 29 15.2%

  • Total voters
    191
no one said that they needed a ported saw to make quota, they have said they run ported saws becouse it makes there job easier and adds to the total daily quota aka makes them a little extra money for the same time spent. in turn porting pays for itself and then starts making you more money. i dont know of any simpler way to put it.

Try putting it like this:

"Make them extra money for same time spent. Pay for self then make more money."
 
A work saw and a production woods saw are two different saws. This is a work saw thread not a production saw build:laugh:
 
Sweet Jesus, who left the door unlock on the old aged home again?? Thought we all got out of “Chainsaw Viagra” on the last one of these threads.

Bottom line gentlemen, no pros around my area run modified saws. I wonder why?? Yea I know, my view is too narrow, I need to get out more and veggimite enhancement blab , blab, blab. Whatever.

So you can’t make quota running a stock saw and you gots to fall back on $350+ for “enhancement” cuz you need it to perform?? Might be time to start thinking about another career?? Perhaps you could try porting saws?? Yea, like that’s profitable. Let me count the number of chainsaws porters I know of in my area. Oppps..None available. I wonder why??? Must all be out “portin” scags and exmarks for the the lescos.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but them the facts. It’s a piss poor carpenter who blames his tools. I wonder if that applies to sawyers and fellers??

:dizzy:
 
Your the first person to acutaul show the info needed:msp_thumbup:

Oh really???? I posted this info yesterday.


These are some of the bits and things I use.

attachment.php


I use an 1/8" drill bit with sandpaper wrapped around it to smooth things up. There are better ways to do it but this is cheap and I always have different grits of paper on hand.

So in addition to being ignorant and/or a troll, HILLBILLYREDNEC is a thin-skinned whiney-ass tattletale.

I couldn't have said it better myself.

Well, risking alienation here. HBRN chose the wrong thread and method to go dissing port work,, however. Not all good loggers port their saws, and not everyone that ports their saw is a good logger. This forum does lean to the 'ToolTown' mentality of hopping up whatever runs, and many do it well. However, time saved in the workplace is all about working hard, working smart, and having the right tool for the job. The right tool for some may well be a stocker saw. And the need for ultimate horsepower by the occasional sawyer..is dubious. Some of my saws are ported, and I'm glad for it; but I know some stand up loggers that wouldn't bother with port work. These are folks I hold in pretty high regard, and make their living in the woods.

The motivation for hopping up saws are many, and all of them just. It does not however make you wise, and to choose not to does not make you a fool.

Great post and all true. A well stated take on things is always welcome. :)

no one said that they needed a ported saw to make quota, they have said they run ported saws becouse it makes there job easier and adds to the total daily quota aka makes them a little extra money for the same time spent. in turn porting pays for itself and then starts making you more money. i dont know of any simpler way to put it.

What is a wood sport anywho?????
 
A work saw and a production woods saw are two different saws. This is a work saw thread not a production saw build:laugh:

Go ahead and tell me this ain't a worksaw or a production woods saw...


<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/2x7MXn5zuEw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Go ahead and tell me this ain't a worksaw or a production woods saw...


<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/2x7MXn5zuEw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

That is a production saw not a work, that was a no brainier :bang:
 
Troll of the year

.... and it's not even July yet. I'm impressed. Anyhow, saws anyone? 7900? 460? 346? 440? 361?



although on a side note, and it has been mentioned already, but I feel the need to reiterate, This is one of the first times on AS I've seen people who can't agree on water being wet agreeing this guy's a douche.
 
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If is I am so dumb, why I have I tried to stay within the work saw area and every else is derailing my posts:dizzy:

What we all are discussing in terms of work saws is a porting/muff modding/etc. that does not compromise the reliability of a saw... and properly done ports with information from the Porting 101 thread and many other threads on this site will last as long, and sometimes longer than a stock saw.

Muff mods... do not open the exit more than 80% or so, porting, start off by not touching the upper area of the exhaust port, and the lower area of the intake port... just widen and clean up the ports...

Widen them until they are about 2mm from the edge of the piston skirt in the narrowest spot. Once that's all done, clean up the cylinder and ensure no metal chips reside inside... then slap the thing back together and run it, tune it, and check for leaks and proper operation.

Now read this post, and leave us the hell alone.
 
If is I am so dumb, why I have I tried to stay within the work saw area and every else is derailing my posts:dizzy:
If you are a troll trying to be the sand in the vaseline, you deserve all the flaming you are getting. If you are just an innocent window-licker trying to fit in, then I feel a bit more sympathetic towards you. I am going with option 2. Usually trolls are semi-articulate. God bless you my challenged friend. If you go to the next GTG, a kind man might buy you an ice cream.
 
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What we all are discussing in terms of work saws is a porting/muff modding/etc. that does not compromise the reliability of a saw... and properly done ports with information from the Porting 101 thread and many other threads on this site will last as long, and sometimes longer than a stock saw.

Muff mods... do not open the exit more than 80% or so, porting, start off by not touching the upper area of the exhaust port, and the lower area of the intake port... just widen and clean up the ports...

Widen them until they are about 2mm from the edge of the piston skirt in the narrowest spot. Once that's all done, clean up the cylinder and ensure no metal chips reside inside... then slap the thing back together and run it, tune it, and check for leaks and proper operation.

Now read this post, and leave us the hell alone.

Now the thread has some decent input to help define the build.:cheers:
 
HBRN... you're passion for the "work saw" is nauseating... Seriously... please leave the thread so these cats can get on with their discussion. You have brought nothing forth that has in any way helped this thread. Every post you have made has disctracted everyone trying to make a decent discussion in this thread.

I asked nicely...

Gary
 

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