Drill Holes to Lighten Bar?

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rms61moparman

rms61moparman

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It won't work anyway!
Unless you plug the holes you drill with something the chips and dust will fill the holes and work very similar to...although the opposite of, a pair of chinese handcuffs.

I have a 42" bar that has the hole in the end for the helper handle and if I don't keep that outside the wood on the opposite side it fills up with sawdust and locks up tighter than a fat mans belt!


Mike
 
StihlyinEly

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It won't work anyway!
Unless you plug the holes you drill with something the chips and dust will fill the holes and work very similar to...although the opposite of, a pair of chinese handcuffs.

I have a 42" bar that has the hole in the end for the helper handle and if I don't keep that outside the wood on the opposite side it fills up with sawdust and locks up tighter than a fat mans belt!


Mike

Do you mean that holes in the bar fill up with sawdust/oil so much that they bind against the wood in the cut?
 
galde

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holes in bar

Do you mean that holes in the bar fill up with sawdust/oil so much that they bind against the wood in the cut?
Exactly. I have filled holes in long bars for others who didn't like the way the bar would bind up in the cut. Drilling holes is easy enough in a drill press using SHARP cobalt bits. Plugging them is harder.
 

CM76

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Some of the big two man saws had their bars perforated in order to lighten them up.
Here is a photo of one of my Titan bars - a 5ft bar which has been drilled in this manner. The other pic shows a tree being felled with a saw fitted out with a similar bar.

Chris.

attachment.php


attachment.php
 
bob15

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Some of the big two man saws had their bars perforated in order to lighten them up.
Here is a photo of one of my Titan bars - a 5ft bar which has been drilled in this manner. The other pic shows a tree being felled with a saw fitted out with a similar bar.

Chris.


attachment.php

It that a hydraulic operated saw? Looking at the guy on the right, to his left is what looks like 2 black hoses, somewhat twisted, running down and behind him. just curious.....
 
branchbuzzer

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1 lb of weight will save a 180 lb. person with 20 lbs. of gear approximately 4 calories per hour going uphill ( 725 vs. 729 ) and get you there 18 seconds quicker.

A 5 % increase in fitness, and that ain't much, will get you there 3 minutes quicker.

I'm not saying the weight doesn't matter, just keep it in perspective.
 
zogger

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Just go ahead and try it! Aren't those bars cheap and common on the used market? Go for it, report back how it worked out or didn't.

Now I am guessing that if that worked, you'd see a variety of them on the market from the bar companies. You can try it anyway though, see what happens.
 
griffonks

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One time when I was 36 years old I burned all my extra clothes before I hiked the return 5 mile trip from Crater Lake off Elwood pass in the San Juans of SW Colorado. I did carry a 6 pound cut-throat trout out though, as that was the reason I was there. Just saying, 12 to 13,000 feet altitude can be a little challenging and I understand the OP's thinking. We count every ounce in the packs.

I believe I would carry a small wedge instead of an extra bar and use it. All that grows up there is pine, spruce and aspen.
 
griffonks

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I should have told you that on the return trips I took mules. They will carry anything and everything. If you have a dog you could fit it with a dog pack and let the mutt carry the fuel and oil, then you can carry the kibbles.... my mutt is happy to carry the whiskey!
 
jeffbayne

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Maybe this is plain dumb... but would this be a remotely acceptable application to use a much smaller saw than necessary, with a long enough bar, and then a full skip chain so the saw can pull it? Like, an MS200 with a 20 something bar? Seems like saving powerhead weight would be a lot more beneficial than bar weight.

jeff
 
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