Bought a new Poulan Pro 5020 to see what there about

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Yesterday I went to the place that had the warehouse full of returned Craftsman two-cycle equipment (chainsaws, string trimmers, blowers, etc.), and they didn't have a single piece left.

A couple of days ago I was in a Sears Hardware Store (Sears light ;)) and they had the Craftsman listed at $259.99, on sale for $199.99. I could swear that a few months ago the regular price was $219.99 :msp_confused:.

I'm glad that I grabbed my Craftsman 358.35098 (PP5020AV) when I did.
 
Pp5020av

Modifiedmark,

I have enjoyed this thread and all the time and effort you put into reviewing the PP5020AV. I think it's fun to learn from people who are passionate about their hobbies and interests. I have read through all 18 pages of this thread twice and I now know a lot more about chainsaws than I ever thought I would.

I need a chainsaw. Not long ago my Pro Mac 555 died from blunt force trauma in what was really just an accidental mercy killing. It had cut up to 3 cords of firewood a year but it was getting on in years and just wasn't the same as it was in its youth.

In a perfect world I'd get the Husqvarna 346xp, but cold hard reality puts me in the category of the PP5020AV. After studying the many opinions about it I won't feel like a total loser leaving Lowe's with this $199.00 chainsaw. Even if its emissions durability period is only 50 hours before the engine wears out to a point that it begins to put out too much pollution it will probably suffice for my needs. 8 hours or so of cutting per year will get me 6 years of use and by then I'll probably be totally burned out on firewood cutting (mostly lodgepole pine) anyway!

I appreciate all of the helpful posts and the many years of accumulated knowledge and experience shared in this thread and on this website.

Thanks

PS What the heck is CAD?
 
Modifiedmark,

I have enjoyed this thread and all the time and effort you put into reviewing the PP5020AV. I think it's fun to learn from people who are passionate about their hobbies and interests. I have read through all 18 pages of this thread twice and I now know a lot more about chainsaws than I ever thought I would.

I need a chainsaw. Not long ago my Pro Mac 555 died from blunt force trauma in what was really just an accidental mercy killing. It had cut up to 3 cords of firewood a year but it was getting on in years and just wasn't the same as it was in its youth.

In a perfect world I'd get the Husqvarna 346xp, but cold hard reality puts me in the category of the PP5020AV. After studying the many opinions about it I won't feel like a total loser leaving Lowe's with this $199.00 chainsaw. Even if its emissions durability period is only 50 hours before the engine wears out to a point that it begins to put out too much pollution it will probably suffice for my needs. 8 hours or so of cutting per year will get me 6 years of use and by then I'll probably be totally burned out on firewood cutting (mostly lodgepole pine) anyway!

I appreciate all of the helpful posts and the many years of accumulated knowledge and experience shared in this thread and on this website.

Thanks

PS What the heck is CAD?




Chainsaw Acquisition Disease!
It is very real and very powerful!
Starts the minute you find this site and all of the "enablers" that abound here.


You could do a lot worse than the 5020 for your money.
It will be on my short list as soon as I move about 10 other 50cc saws!!!LOL

Mike
 
Whoever wrote that original review is less than a whole step above a full blown idiot!!!
1) I would sure love to see his 5020 and a 26" bar cut for a day!
2) A new Vanguard chain isn't that slow at all unless you are running the nose radius in the uncut wood (buried with a bar that isn't big enough)
3) I really wonder how many times he sharpened the chain during the original "10 hours" and I also wonder if he has a clue about lowering the rakers...especially on a Vanguard chain.
4) He obviously has NO stinking CLUE what an "OLD POULAN" really is.

I'm just not impressed!:dizzy:


Mike

What really get me is (I can't stop it no matter how hard I push). That chain has to be dull X 10. Steve
 
Perspective from a "Mr. Homeowner"

Thanks for a very, very good thread, y'all, and I mean everybody who contributed. I'm a Mr. Homeowner, loves chainsaws, have owned Stihl M290, Husqvarna 435, currently Husqvarna 445.
Here's my perspective: There is nothing not to like about a 50cc saw of this quality that can be had for $179. That's just an incredible price. Next, and this is much bigger: A two year Homeowner warranty.

Tommy
 
3/8 x .050 ... do I just count the links and buy a Oregon chain local or should I get a Poulan as a 2nd chain?

BTW, I found this parts list some where ...

No you don't count the links. You count the drivers. The drivers are on the bottom of the links. They are hat the sprocket turns the chain with.
 
No you don't count the links. You count the drivers. The drivers are on the bottom of the links. They are hat the sprocket turns the chain with.

Thanks for this :msp_thumbup:

Chainsaw Acquisition Disease! :D Good One !

I did start it up this weekend even though I had nothing to cut. It started as advertised by following the instructions on the saw. I was happily revving it until I realized that chain oil was flying everywhere ... I suppose that proves the oilier works.

I used Stihl oil and mixed 40:1 with premium gas.
 
If you are still running the original bar, there is no use to count the drivers.............there are going to be 70 of them.


Mike
 
Thanks for this :msp_thumbup:

Chainsaw Acquisition Disease! :D Good One !

I did start it up this weekend even though I had nothing to cut. It started as advertised by following the instructions on the saw. I was happily revving it until I realized that chain oil was flying everywhere ... I suppose that proves the oilier works.

I used Stihl oil and mixed 40:1 with premium gas.

Don't do too much free revving, it's hard on the engine. Quick bursts are fine, but no holding it WOT for long periods without being in wood.
 
Great review Mark. Like with any tool it's life depends on how well you take care of it and maintain it. It certainly has its place.
I feel that even though this is an enthusiaist site and members cut more than the average person, in the real world very few cut over 10 cords a year if that much if the truth were known. A saw like this should last Saw Troll a lifetime of use:msp_tongue:
It should provide causal owners/homeowner's a good alternative to pro saws.
 
Great review Mark. Like with any tool it's life depends on how well you take care of it and maintain it. It certainly has its place.
I feel that even though this is an enthusiaist site and members cut more than the average person, in the real world very few cut over 10 cords a year if that much if the truth were known. A saw like this should last Saw Troll a lifetime of use:msp_tongue:
It should provide causal owners/homeowner's a good alternative to pro saws.

Yes, definately, which is why Niko should trade me straight up his Jonsered 2153 for my
Craftsman/Poulan 5020 :msp_w00t:. But I won't hold my breath, lol.
 
Great review Mark. Like with any tool it's life depends on how well you take care of it and maintain it. It certainly has its place.
I feel that even though this is an enthusiaist site and members cut more than the average person, in the real world very few cut over 10 cords a year if that much if the truth were known. A saw like this should last Saw Troll a lifetime of use:msp_tongue:
It should provide causal owners/homeowner's a good alternative to pro saws.



I'll bet that it is MUCH lower than that!
I'd be surprised if the "AVERAGE" is over an hour (of saw run time) per year.

For every one of us who usually cut 15-20 cords per year there are hundreds of homeowners who have a brand new 10 year old saw in their garage that has never been started.



Mike
 
Great review Mark. Like with any tool it's life depends on how well you take care of it and maintain it. It certainly has its place.
I feel that even though this is an enthusiaist site and members cut more than the average person, in the real world very few cut over 10 cords a year if that much if the truth were known. A saw like this should last Saw Troll a lifetime of use:msp_tongue:
It should provide causal owners/homeowner's a good alternative to pro saws.

Thanks for the kudos, glad to see you (and lots of others) understand the point of it! I'm thinking more and more that the price point on this makes it a best buy for lots of folks.

It probably wont hurt your feelings that as far as I know it is built in the USA. Shame there foreign owned now though...
 
It probably wont hurt your feelings that as far as I know it is built in the USA. Shame there foreign owned now though...

It's the way of the world these days ...

I work for a German company that started back in 1819 and for the first time in it's history a US company owns over 90% of the shares. Basically we are how american owned.

BTW great job on this thread.
 
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I'll bet that it is MUCH lower than that!
I'd be surprised if the "AVERAGE" is over an hour (of saw run time) per year.

For every one of us who usually cut 15-20 cords per year there are hundreds of homeowners who have a brand new 10 year old saw in their garage that has never been started.



Mike
This is exactly why I run the saws I do - I'm probably not 10 cords a year, plus lots of trimming/brush/cleanup. These saws will last me indefinitely. And I bet I cut more than many AS members with pro saws.
 
This is exactly why I run the saws I do - I'm probably not 10 cords a year, plus lots of trimming/brush/cleanup. These saws will last me indefinitely. And I bet I cut more than many AS members with pro saws.

I cut about 4 cords a year plus some random trimming on my property and at my folk's place.
 
Good enough for who it's for.

I bought the PP5020AV from Lowe’s on September 3rd and filled the tank with the 40:1 premix. By following the instructions it started on the 6th or 7th pull. I wasn’t sure how well it would run because we are at about 3900’ elevation here. I let it idle for a few minutes to get it good and warm before slowly increasing engine speed a little.

3 little ponderosas had been thriving on the septic drain field out back and they were to be the first victims of this dangerous homeowner with a saw. They were really pretty trees and I hated to see them go, but a functioning septic system is definitely a priority. I cut off the branches and cut up enough firewood for maybe two winter days of heat. It was sort of like catching and eating a trout that is barely legal size.

The saw burned through the first tank of fuel very quickly just cutting those 3 little trees.
Surprisingly the saw idles well, just a little fast at times when the chain just kind of creeps along, starting and stopping slowly on its own. I really have babied the saw and only used short bursts of wide open throttle to cut through those little trees.

I bought a cord of western juniper rounds a couple days ago. So far the biggest test of the saw was cutting through a 12” juniper round. Whoa, that was slow. That is pretty hard wood for softwood. The growth rings are so close together. They are high desert trees. I won’t be cutting any more juniper.

With the second tank of gas I cut the juniper and a few more little pines and some brush. This time the saw used noticeably less gas. Might be that the engine had broken in a little.

No worries about the chain getting enough bar oil. It really flows, and as some others have noticed it pretty much does all leak out overnight. I tried venting the pressure that builds up in the bar oil tank, as some have suggested. That didn’t stop the leakage.

I had good luck starting the saw while warm. Pulling the choke all the way out and then pushing it all the way back in sets the idle to high and one pull and it is off and running again. By squeezing the throttle the idle returns to normal. When trying to start it while warm without the fast idle setting I would pull and pull with no effect, even if I had just shut it off.

With the woods closed to firewood cutting due to level 3 conditions it could be a while before I can test the saw on some normal sized pine trees.

A buddy just got the MS 250 and side by side of course his looks better. I know his will cut better (we didn’t race) with the .325 chain, shorter bar and all. His saw also has the sticker that says Emissions Durability Period 50 Hours, same as my PP5020AV. Interesting.
 
I bought the PP5020AV from Lowe’s on September 3rd and filled the tank with the 40:1 premix. By following the instructions it started on the 6th or 7th pull. I wasn’t sure how well it would run because we are at about 3900’ elevation here. I let it idle for a few minutes to get it good and warm before slowly increasing engine speed a little.

3 little ponderosas had been thriving on the septic drain field out back and they were to be the first victims of this dangerous homeowner with a saw. They were really pretty trees and I hated to see them go, but a functioning septic system is definitely a priority. I cut off the branches and cut up enough firewood for maybe two winter days of heat. It was sort of like catching and eating a trout that is barely legal size.

The saw burned through the first tank of fuel very quickly just cutting those 3 little trees.
Surprisingly the saw idles well, just a little fast at times when the chain just kind of creeps along, starting and stopping slowly on its own. I really have babied the saw and only used short bursts of wide open throttle to cut through those little trees.

I bought a cord of western juniper rounds a couple days ago. So far the biggest test of the saw was cutting through a 12” juniper round. Whoa, that was slow. That is pretty hard wood for softwood. The growth rings are so close together. They are high desert trees. I won’t be cutting any more juniper.

With the second tank of gas I cut the juniper and a few more little pines and some brush. This time the saw used noticeably less gas. Might be that the engine had broken in a little.

No worries about the chain getting enough bar oil. It really flows, and as some others have noticed it pretty much does all leak out overnight. I tried venting the pressure that builds up in the bar oil tank, as some have suggested. That didn’t stop the leakage.

I had good luck starting the saw while warm. Pulling the choke all the way out and then pushing it all the way back in sets the idle to high and one pull and it is off and running again. By squeezing the throttle the idle returns to normal. When trying to start it while warm without the fast idle setting I would pull and pull with no effect, even if I had just shut it off.

With the woods closed to firewood cutting due to level 3 conditions it could be a while before I can test the saw on some normal sized pine trees.

A buddy just got the MS 250 and side by side of course his looks better. I know his will cut better (we didn’t race) with the .325 chain, shorter bar and all. His saw also has the sticker that says Emissions Durability Period 50 Hours, same as my PP5020AV. Interesting.

Try a pro chain, keep the one that came with it as a spare.

Of course if you are feeling nuts, you could send it to one of the pro porters here.
 
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