Thanks Hurricane Sandy - Need suggestion

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lukkyseven

ArboristSite Lurker
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Let me start by saying I planned on doing a lot more research on this topic than I currently have. I just purchased a house on 4 acres and planned on buying a chainsaw in the spring. Ms. Sandy just drove through and is making this purchase a much more urgent issue. I have a budget of about $700 and have several tree's that need to be cut. Some of them are 40+ inches. I of course don't have to spend the full budget and that's what I'm trying to figure out.

That being said, I don't plan on just using this saw for these tree's. I can heat my house on wood, so this saw will see some use. I've been recomended the Stihl 362, but I'm open to any other options. I've never used one before, but I have some good people to show me how to use them. I'm just concerned they could be biased on their opinions.

Lets start here and I'll answer any other questions that come up!

Thanks
 
Can you wait for the saw? With all the damage the law of supply and demand rules and the price gougers are out. Better deals will be found once things quiet down. You might even find a like new saw cheap once someone finishes their cleanup.
 
Let me start by saying I planned on doing a lot more research on this topic than I currently have. I just purchased a house on 4 acres and planned on buying a chainsaw in the spring. Ms. Sandy just drove through and is making this purchase a much more urgent issue. I have a budget of about $700 and have several tree's that need to be cut. Some of them are 40+ inches. I of course don't have to spend the full budget and that's what I'm trying to figure out.

That being said, I don't plan on just using this saw for these tree's. I can heat my house on wood, so this saw will see some use. I've been recomended the Stihl 362, but I'm open to any other options. I've never used one before, but I have some good people to show me how to use them. I'm just concerned they could be biased on their opinions.

Lets start here and I'll answer any other questions that come up!

Thanks
I would get a 441 and purchace a extra bar & chain maybe 36" for the big stuff if you need it. I have burnt up the clutches in smaller saws cutting big wood and it takes alot of time. I think you need a 441 or bigger for large bar & chain... Make sure you have some wedges also. This is also my favorite all around saw........I have one in each of my trucks.....:clap:
 
Yea it can wait. I've had someone remove the tree blocking everything already.

Does the 441 fit into my $700 budget? Stihl doesn't post their prices anywhere that I can find... Husqvarna does though. I'm not opposed to going to a different brand.
 
The 362 will keep you under $700, the 441 (better choice to me for a long bar) would run around $900.

That said, if you are completely new to chainsaws, both the 362 and 441 might be a bit much to handle, especially with a long bar. I'd wade into this carefully and slowly.
 
The husqvarna 562xp would be your best bet. It's in your price range. It cut's really good, almost as good as 70cc saws, and better than a ms362. Plus, it's autotune, meaning you don't have to tune the carb which is a big plus for someone who don't know much about tinkering with a carburetor. I like the ms362 too, but it don't have the auto tune carb. If you know how to keep a saw tuned then I would recommend it. You don't need anything bigger than a ms362 or 562xp for the work you need to get out of it. Bigger saw will cost more money. Run a 20" bar on the 562xp. You can even pull a 24" bar with one pretty good. I would limit the ms362 to a 20" bar.

40" trees might be out of these saw's range. But I feel that someone new to chainsaws don't need to be jumping right up to a big saw. Saws can mess you up real quick. I would just leave the big trunks or sell the good ones for timber. If you have to though, the husky 562xp will cut big wood like that. Just take your time and buck it from both ends. Get you some wedges to keep from snagging your bar up.
 
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Yea it can wait. I've had someone remove the tree blocking everything already.

Does the 441 fit into my $700 budget? Stihl doesn't post their prices anywhere that I can find... Husqvarna does though. I'm not opposed to going to a different brand.

Not new...

Do you have protective equipment already, if not, you should figure that into your budget.

A pro 50cc saw will fit most people's needs, look at the 261, 346xp, 550xp, or even the Dolmar 5105. They are all good and you can get well within your budget (though I am not sure of the retail price of the 550).
 
Protective equipment will be purchased too. I really don't feel like hurting myself that's for sure.

@s219

Lets say I go with a 440 or 441, and just get a 20" bar, would that be going into it slow/safely? I really dont want to go back and buy a second saw. I can see how it would be beneficial though. I do have some friends with stihl 290's that would probably let me test them out to start, but I'm not one to borrow someone saw, have bad luck and break it and then have to buy them a new one.
 
Husky 365. End of discussion. Will run the occasional 24, its in your price range new, and if you want you can turn it into a 372. Second choice is a 2165 Jonsered.
 
Out of your budget but I would go this way as you will get more than half the cost back is you decide to resell the saw.

Stihl MS461 with a 28" bar for the big stuff and a 20" for the small stuff. It is one of the most versitile saws on the market.

Also the MS460 which are still on shelves around is just as good. The MS461 just came out.

I have a near new Dolmar in the classifieds with a 16" bar that is great saw as well. Click link below in my signature. It is a pro level saw. Needs nothing.
 
440/441 is not a beginners saw. Start with a used smaller saw like 026/260/290 etc.. By the time you get all the stuff cut up that those saws are capable of you should have enough experience for a larger saw.
 
I fail to see how a 70cc saw is "more dangerous" then a 50-60cc saw:confused: Doesn't make sense to me. Saws are dangerous. Period. Treat it like its trying to kill you at all times and you should be ok. Get some chaps! Good luck with your saw choice.
 
Protective equipment will be purchased too. I really don't feel like hurting myself that's for sure.

@s219

Lets say I go with a 440 or 441, and just get a 20" bar, would that be going into it slow/safely? I really dont want to go back and buy a second saw. I can see how it would be beneficial though. I do have some friends with stihl 290's that would probably let me test them out to start, but I'm not one to borrow someone saw, have bad luck and break it and then have to buy them a new one.



Well, I think you'd want a 20" bar on that anyhow, since it's what you will probably use most of the time. A longer 25-28" bar would probably only be needed for certain occasions. But regardless of bar size, it's a very big powerful saw and heavy to handle for someone new to saws. I'm just thinking in terms of how I and other people around me learned and got experience with saws, and I'd be hesitant to put a big powerful heavy saw into the hands of a newbie. It's almost like strapping on a jet pack.

The way you're talking, you have the makings of a chainsaw enthusiast like the rest of us here, so let me help you out :msp_wink:. Start with a good 50cc saw, like the MS-261, Echo 500P, or Husky 550XP, or countless others in this size range. They will all run 18" bars well, and the 261 can even run a 20" (not sure about the others but I do have plenty of experience with the 261). Get your feet wet, and go to town. With an 18-20" bar, you can tackle a lot. Months down the road, if you really need a bigger saw, then go 70-75cc. You'll be in a better position to appreciate and handle the saw safely and effectively. Yes, this will cost more, but you'll have the right tools for the job.

I have a 45cc, 50cc, and 77cc saw in my working stable. They all have their place and have a sweet spot. By far, the 50cc saw gets the most use. The 77cc saw is great for big wood and it's a helluva lot of fun. But I wouldn't want to use it for limbing, cutting small wood, or slicing firewood rounds all day long. The big saws have their place, but they are generally not an everyday/all-day saw for landowners in my opinion.

The 362 might be an option, but honestly I think it's an in-between saw. It's not that much more powerful than a 261, and not that much lighter than a 441. I'd rather have a 261 and 441 (or 461) than a 362.

Good luck!
 
I fail to see how a 70cc saw is "more dangerous" then a 50-60cc saw:confused: Doesn't make sense to me. Saws are dangerous. Period. Treat it like its trying to kill you at all times and you should be ok. Get some chaps! Good luck with your saw choice.

Chaps and a hardhat with face shield. IMO big saws will kick back harder, not easier, but that added HP, along with the bigger bar will throw the bar at you harder, and the extra weight means when its coming at you, its more weight to hold back.
 
The good people of AS forgot to tell you that you need at least 2 saws (I find that strange :D).

If you want to buck up those 40+inchers you need a bar that's half as long as the diameter of the trees, so a 25" would be probably be a safe bet. A good 60cc will do that if you put a skip chain on it. To spin it with some authority and full comp chain you should be looking at 70+ccs.

The problem with 70cc+ saws is that you don't want that to be your only saw, if you're not a) experienced enough to never get it pinched and b)have a very strong back. For limbing and small stuff a saw in 40-50cc.

If you want to go with 1 saw by all means pick a 60cc, and it will do all you ask of it. If you have a buddy with a bigger saw ask him to help you cut up the trees, or get a 25" bar and skip chain. Don't forget to get the basic PPE. Any of the top brand pro series should serve you good and for a long time.
 
I fail to see how a 70cc saw is "more dangerous" then a 50-60cc saw:confused: Doesn't make sense to me. Saws are dangerous. Period. Treat it like its trying to kill you at all times and you should be ok. Get some chaps! Good luck with your saw choice.

Saws that cut faster give you less time to react to shifting limbs, logs, etc. Smaller saws that cut slower give you more time to feel and read things like bar pinches or seeing a large limb start to do something you didn't expect it to do.

Storm clean up is dangerous as there can be some pretty large forces bound up waiting to be unleashed. While a 70cc saw with a 20-25" bar would be perfect for the trunks of the trees in question, it's a questionable choice for a new user.

That being said, a Husky 550 or Stihl 261 with 16" and 20" bars will get the poster and awful long way. Start with the 16" bar and the smaller stuff, work up to the 20" bar and bigger stuff. It will also leave some money for chaps, helmet, filing kit, oil, mix, etc. Just learning how to maintain a saw to keep it running properly takes time, jumping in with both feet on major clean up will be quite a learning process.
 
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Don't rule rule out a more modest mid-range saw like the stihl 290-291-311-391 series. A lot of guys on here, myself included, feel the personal need for pro saws. However, if you're not a pro, sounds like you are not, you don't need a pro saw. 290's can be had around here for under 400 with a free case.

They will pull a 20" bar no problem and do most of what you need.

If you are going to be cutting a lot of 40" + trees you are going to need two saws for sure. One for normal use and one for the big stuff. Start with a regular saw like the 290 and buy a big one when you need/can afford it

That will leave you some extra money for PPE gear, files, chains, cases, oil etc.

I have cut 30 cords a year for the last five with a 310 (the slightly bigger brother to a 290) with a muffler mod and only recently added an older 026 to my arsenal. I run a 25" full chisel on the 310 and it gets the job done on 40" + wood. Not ideal but works.

If money were no object I'd I have a 441 cm to add to the collection, but for most of us on here, including myself, money is an object so buy what you can.

Welcome to the site!
 
The following will be somewhat disorganized but will address some points made in earlier posts.

1. Do you have strong dealer support one way or another? Stihl or Husqvarna? Do you have preferences for one or the other??
(given that this guy isn't way into saws, would be good for him to have dealer support).

2. How big is the largest tree you need to cut? 40"? 50"? Chances are if it's in this range a 24" bar will do you just fine.

3. If you have husky dealer nearby I will say I think a 365 XT would be a perfect saw. This will offer longer bar capability over something like a MS 362 and or a 562 without breaking the bank.

4. Regarding safety, any pro saw is sufficiently dangerous. Get PPE and someone to show you around. What's up, a 50 cc saw will only cut halfway through your leg but a 70cc one will cut straight though?? The guy needs a fairly big saw to get his #### cut up so I think encouraging him to start out small is somewhat silly. So long as he understands which way the saw will push or pull and has sufficient strength to control it and some PPE I don't see a huge safety difference here.

5. For someone doing storm cleanup, and someone relatively new to chainsaws, an internal clutch will be MUCH easier. Any bar pinches can be quickly resolved, and instead of needing a whole other saw, you need an extra bar and chain. Proper technique is one thing but anyone new with a saw and anyone doing storm cleanup will get their bar pinched, and pinched in such a way that a little lever or wedge doesn't get them out.

6. While many people have a 2+ saw plan, I think with something like a 365 XT there is really one saw utility. 24+ bars with skip, but still not an anchor. If the guy wants to get a small saw he can get a ms 211 or something to whip around. In time.

7. You're at an exciting time when saws potentially don't ever require tuning, but more so than ever they require competent dealers. The MS 441 m-tronic and 562 have automatic carburetor tuning, but at least the newer huskies with this feature need competent dealers with the right tools to service them.

8. Stay safe, and get someone t
 
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